6 replies to this topic

[tex]

Hi everybody

 

i'm working on my full competion mini cooper, since one month, but i don't know how to resolve this problem.

 

So i have a cooling problem, one month a go during a competition, i exploded the head gasket.

Immediatly i bought a new multilayer head gasket from COMETIC, a new super water pump on minispares, with out by pass, and with the plastic rotor for over 10.000rpm, a new very big radiator of MG mgf and two new pull plastic fan.

 

So today i fit all on the car but nothing, Always the same problem, to high the temperature.

 

I don't undestand why if i have the car  at 1500 rpm, costantly, and with the two new fan on, the temperature will not go down, it stay at 80C°, and the two fun will never go to off

 

i will try to race for test, maybe with the speed the temperature can go down, but if not i brake all again.

 

it's not problem of distributor regolation, because i remove it, and i'm running with megasquirt, trigger wheels 36-1 and i'm controlling all with my computer.

 

so please help me i don't know how to do

 

there are too many mini in my garage that laughing at my competition mini

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[TehMarchant]

Did you check if the head had warped when the head gasket went pop?

 

I would say the reason your temperature will not drop below 80C is becuase you have a thermostat installed which is designed to keep the temperature up so the engine doesn't run too cold.

[tex]

yes i was controlling my head after the problem, but it was all ok, but for safety i rectificated the same for guarantee the planarty. 

 

 

sorry but i don't have the thermostat installed, i race without for don't have problem

[jaydee]

You need what we call a blanking sleeve if you're removing the stat.

What rpm you use with the engine that you got such exotic water pump? Anyhow when its pulley is optimized for a 10k rpm, it wont work at its best at 1500rpm only.

Edited by jaydee, 05 September 2015 - 08:04 PM.

[Spider]

Is the Ignition Timing right(I see that you have a set up that you can Taylor, but if the Ignition Timing is too fast or too slow it will make it overheat. Like wise for the Fuel Mixture. Have you run it up on a Dyno? An engine Dyno would be best for setting this up.

 

Jaydee, with respect, as the By-pass is already blocked off, a Blanking Sleeve won't do anything.

[tex]

thanks to all.

 

problem solved.

 

i changed the pulley on the pump.

 

i was running with the big pulley always bought on mini spares.

 

now i have a standard 1300cc pulley on the water pump, also with a smaller diameter, consequently the water go more fast in the cooling system.

 

tested in the ciurcuit for 1 hour with 25C° external temperature, and the car was running Always at 75C° - 80C° running between 7000- 8500 rpm costantly.

 

second test: the car was parcked and the motor was running at the minimum 1500 rpm for one hour.

always perfect because the 2 fan start at 75c° and a few second the temperature go down at 65c°

 

this second test is important for me because some times in the competition before  start, you have to stay lined up with other cars for 10-15 minutes, and the engine is running.

 

today i'm very happy thanks to all

[tex]

pictures of new radiator and new fan

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•  IMG-20150906-WA0007.jpg   55.04K   9 downloads