17 replies to this topic

[Rogers1967]

Hi all, two things. First what is the coolant level in my rad for a 1300 spi, I can't find an expansion tank and presume you fill direct into the rad ? Secondly does anyone know what this spare wire is in my boot, can't find a connector ? Will post a pic when I've sorted my privacy settings.

rgds colin

[FlyingScot]

Moved to injection.

Radiator level is to the level of the little wire loop which is above the core level. There is a expansion tank but not in the standard sense and its under the wing and fed from the overflow pipe.

Your connector post has a picture but it's not clear what you are showing.

FS

[Rogers1967]

Thanks FS, there is a Wire with a connector in the boot close to the bottom of the petrol tank, can't see what this connects too ? Colin

Edited by Rogers1967, 11 September 2015 - 06:12 AM.

[peter-b]

A random guess, fog light wire?
I fill the radiator then keep dribbling coolant in till it runs out at the lh wheel, it then finds its own level.

[FlyingScot]

What colours the wire then we can be sure..?

FS

[Rogers1967]

Hi fs it's a bullet type connector which is black and comes from the underside of the petrol tank left hand side, fog light works on which is the right hand side

[Rogers1967]

Having problems starting from cold, trying to establish if the coolant temp sensor is faulty without access to an ACR, am I right in thinking the CTS supplies both the ecu and the temp gauge in the dash ? If so temp gauge sits a rid mid point so I'm assuming this sensor is working ? Haven't worked on Spi's before

[Rogers1967]

Sorry for all the questions but grateful for all your mini experience :)

[FlyingScot]

Having problems starting from cold, trying to establish if the coolant temp sensor is faulty without access to an ACR, am I right in thinking the CTS supplies both the ecu and the temp gauge in the dash ? If so temp gauge sits a rid mid point so I'm assuming this sensor is working ? Haven't worked on Spi's before

Sensor feeds the ECU then the ECU drives the gauge. When warmed up the needle should sit just below the middle (sometimes there is a little dot). Sounds like it is working.
Have a read of the pinned threads on this section, Spis suffer from few problems, mainly just lack of maintenance.
Vacuum pipes and fuel trap should be replaced unless you have done so recently - a very high percentage of problems are due to these even when people are in denial to begin with....

FS

[FlyingScot]

Hi fs it's a bullet type connector which is black and comes from the underside of the petrol tank left hand side, fog light works on which is the right hand side

Is the wire into the connector also black?

FS

[Rogers1967]

Thanks again FS, yes wire is black. Also as you say temp gauge sits just below the mid way red connector. Yes changed all the vac pipes and made sure not pushed on to far so that they block at the elbow connectors (these were shot but now changed ticks over when started about 950 - 1050), haven't changed the fuel trap, new battery strap, Only way to start from cold Is to disconnect the air intake sensor under neath the air box and make sure the battery is absolutely fully charged (it's. Brand new Lucas battery but still have to make sure fully charged and maintaining), she will then start and once warm will start all day. Give it a day or so and won't start she throws over freely but will not fire unless I repeat the procedure above ! Alarm is fine, fuel pump primes ok and stepper returns to start position when turned off, hence reason for thinking water coolant temp sensor.

[peter-b]

SPI's can sometimes be a pib. I have one and wish sometimes I had a car by under the bonnet instead. Mine starts OK in mornings, idles fine but dies and struggles on first acceleration then goes reluctantly. Runs like a hairy goat from then on, UNLESS, I switch it off once warmed up and restart it, then it runs perfect. How's that for weird?

Have you tried taking air filter top of and looking to see if sufficient fuel is being injected when cold?

[spiguy]

As far as I know, the ECU effectively 're-sets' every switch off. So your problem suggests that there is some out of tolerance condition there which exists from cold start, but clears up once warmed up. Can't think what it would be though that the ECU would take a particular reading and run with it even though it is changing?

[IainStallard]

I had the exact issues with my SPi, turns out, mine was caused by a weak spark caused by a corroded rotor arm. Starts perfect every time now

[Rogers1967]

Thanks all, has new dizzy cap and rotor arm, looks like I need to invest in an ACR reader ouch !