Breather Issues,maybe,hopefully?
Best Answer olly33 , 27 September 2015 - 08:09 PM
Hi.I thought I would let you know that the oil has now stopped forcing its way out the dipstick hole.
I connected the breather canisters to the carb,and also changed out the 2 o-ring seals on the dipstick.I had to seal round the rod of the dipstick where the wider shaft part sits in the block,as oil was also coming out between this part too,even tho I replaced the 2 o-rings.
Cheers all,just hope it stays that way,and will also try a compression test once I get the gauge.
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#1
Posted 15 September 2015 - 11:50 AM
I have been driving it for the last 500 miles at max 3k rpm,finished running in it in on way back from Stanford.
I got home and lifted the bonnet just to check all was ok and a fair amount of oil has spewed out the dipstick hole.I have the stainless type with the 2 o-rings with red knob.
My first thoughts it was leaking here due to it not sealing properly,but after doing a search it maybe my breather canisters blocked?
I have the 1275 with the 2 type breathers that are not plumbed into carb,just using the stubby filters on the end of the hoses.
Removing the clutch side is not a problem,but what's involved on the rad side to remove to clean it.
I'm guessing this could be the issue,but welcome for any info to the cause. Cheers
#2
Posted 15 September 2015 - 11:59 AM
but did you not clean them during the rebuild?
rad side is rad out and pulley off. timing cover off.
not they are full of wire wool and that is held in by a metal ring/spring thing.
you could just test by attaching a 1/2" tube and blow (i take no resposiblity if the metal "wool" is in such poor condition this action blows it into sump or timing gear.).
#3
Posted 15 September 2015 - 12:09 PM
Should I hear air blowing,or as long as no resistance it will be clear enough?
#4
Posted 15 September 2015 - 12:12 PM
#5
Posted 15 September 2015 - 12:59 PM
#6
Posted 15 September 2015 - 04:49 PM
Maybe, the résistance in the total lubricating system of your engine is the least at the rockers on the rocker axle. So that very much oil comes out here and is filling up the rocker box with so much oil, that it has a hard time to go down the pushing rod holes. A lot of oil is going down the halve stems and burned in the cilinders.
This means that fewer oil is going to the bearings of the crank and camshaft.
It would be better if you connect the breather pipe to the foot of the carburettor, so that there will be a bit of vacuüm in the drankcase in stead of a bit of pressure. The oil seals on the crank wil do their work a lot better and you want have so much spelling via the lipstick hole.
#7
Posted 15 September 2015 - 05:03 PM
Win,I have decided I will now attach them both to the carb when I get the pipes etc.What about the mayo/water that came out the clutch side canister?
Also the timing side filter has blew a little oil out on that side.I will post some pics up of what I have seen today,a little later.I'm hoping perhaps the dipstick I have is accurate enough,as oil level is now below the min level,before journey it was half way up the min/max.
Link to photos,photobucket does not seem to be loading. https://www.dropbox....o0UGRbo7NwSUg7m
1- spark plug condition all 4
2-Valve showing,panicked at first to what it was
3-clutch case breather as taken off and shaken,water/mayo only the bit in bowl??
4-Same canister with the mayo in.
5-After washing in petrol
6-Current filters fitted and is that the correct marks on stick for min,max? it was midway before the journey,now below min line.
Edited by olly33, 15 September 2015 - 07:11 PM.
#8
Posted 15 September 2015 - 09:59 PM
#9
Posted 15 September 2015 - 11:41 PM
The dipstick and stops oil coming out of
The hole it's a smart peace of kit and not very exspencive
#10
Posted 16 September 2015 - 11:33 AM
#11
Posted 16 September 2015 - 03:35 PM
The colour of your plug is fine. It should be 'coffee'.
The engine oill level has to come up to the max mark.
The mayonaise will disappear as soon as you drive for some hours at motorway speed.
Mayo is water disperged in the engine oil, while the engine temp (oil temp) was not high enough to evaporate all the water that was left by the burned gasses that passed alongside the pistons and the cilinder walls into the crankcase.
With the crankcase ventilation working throu the vacuüm line(s) to the carburetto(s) the damp will be sucked away sufficiently.
#12
Posted 16 September 2015 - 05:35 PM
#13
Posted 16 September 2015 - 05:52 PM
But I ain't no expert lol
#14
Posted 27 September 2015 - 08:09 PM Best Answer
I connected the breather canisters to the carb,and also changed out the 2 o-ring seals on the dipstick.I had to seal round the rod of the dipstick where the wider shaft part sits in the block,as oil was also coming out between this part too,even tho I replaced the 2 o-rings.
Cheers all,just hope it stays that way,and will also try a compression test once I get the gauge.
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