11 replies to this topic

[crackfoo]

Hi, 

 

Yesterday I replaced a thermostat so had my rad unhooked from the engine. Put it all back together, hopped in started him up and heard a strange loud sound while running. I got right out but left him running, to investigate as I thought it may have just been my rad to close to the fan. After fiddling with the rad and revving the engine a few times I realized it wasn't the problem at all. When I got back in, I noticed my keyring was stuck up against the cowling and left the starter running! I'm pretty sure I turned him off and then started him again fine... but today... I get not a click out of the starter.... Battery is fine, I just replaced solenoid last week, earths fine...

 

What are the typical outcomes of leaving your starter engaged? Have a screwed my starter? Engine?

 

Thanks

[crackfoo]

Should I try bridging the poles on the solenoid to see if the starter gives a kick? I've already tried tapping the starter with a hammer.

Edited by crackfoo, 16 September 2015 - 12:37 PM.

[crackfoo]

OK, he started up by bridging the poles on the solenoid.

 

Does this mean my relay is gone? I don't hear ANY clicking at all....

Edited by crackfoo, 16 September 2015 - 01:24 PM.

[crackfoo]

The only relay's I can see are:

 

 IMG_3359.jpg   61.04K   3 downloads

[crackfoo]

OK, So I did some metering and the White/Red wire on my solenoid IS getting power when I turn the key to position 3. Does this mean that I blew my solenoid? 

[dklawson]

The parts in your picture appear to be the flasher and a relay for an electrically operated cooling fan switch.  

 

If you have the inertia starter (which I assume you do) and bridging the threaded terminals causes the engine to turn over you have only two possible faults.  First the solenoid itself could be bad but don't run out and buy one just yet.  If you have a multimeter, set it to measure volts.  Place one probe against earth, the other to the terminal on the solenoid with the white/red wire.  Make sure you have good metal to metal contacts with both probes.  Have an assistant turn the key to the start position.  If you measure battery voltage on the white/red wire, the solenoid is bad or has lost its earth connection.  If making sure a clean earth for the solenoid mounting foot doesn't fix the problem... buy a new solenoid.  On the other hand, if there is no voltage on the white/red wire you probably have an issue with the wire itself or the ignition switch.

 

EDIT:  You appear to have been typing while I was typing.  If you measured 12V on white/red with the key in the start position, check the mounting foot of the solenoid to make sure it has a clean, good earth connection.  The mounting foot must be earthed.  If that does not address the problem, replace the solenoid.

Edited by dklawson, 16 September 2015 - 04:32 PM.

[crackfoo]

Ok thanks. I'll double check the earth where it mounts and make sure it's a good contact. Would that make a difference even when I can start it by bridging the poles?

[dklawson]

Yes.  Loss of earth for the solenoid mounting foot will prevent it from working.

 

Warning:  Techno-babble to follow.

 

The solenoid is a big, heavy-duty relay.  An electromagnet fires a plunger inside the housing to push a piece of copper between the two threaded posts on the solenoid.  When you bridge the posts with a screwdriver or pair of pliers you are doing externally what the plunger inside the solenoid normally does.  If you lose the earth connection for the solenoid, its electromagnet cannot work.  That prevents the plunger from moving forward to bridge the threaded terminals.  Since you know you have 12V on the white/red wire, if making sure the solenoid mounting foot is earthed does NOT correct the problem, that says the plunger inside is stuck or that the windings of the electromagnet are not conducting anymore.

[crackfoo]

OK great, thanks for the Techno-babble!

 

Paul

[crackfoo]

Looks like it's gonna be the solenoid. Cleaned it up still nuttin. 

 

Any sense getting the push button solenoid?

[dklawson]

Absolutely not.  Do not buy the push-button starter.  The aftermarket reproductions have horrible quality.  I had one fail after 30 days and took a chance on a second one that turned out to be no better.  I am not alone in this experience.  Remember the plunger I mentioned in my last post?  Inside the pushbutton solenoids there is a circlip or two on the plunger shaft.  Those circlips pop off/out of location after a few cycles leaving you without a working solenoid.  The pushbutton solenoids cannot be opened and fixed so you end up buying another solenoid. 

 

If you want the functionality of the push-button starter, you can make your own DIY electrical version.  Take a small, momentary contact, normally open, pushbutton switch and solder two wires on it.  Cover your solder joints with heat shrink tubing or well applied electrical tape.  Connect one pushbutton wire to the solenoid terminal with all the brown wires.  Strip and fold the other wire into/under the female terminal on the white/red wire and re-attach the white/red wire to the solenoid.  Wrap that joint with tape so the switch wire won't come out.  Anytime you want to bump the engine over on the starter all you need to do is put the car in neutral and momentarily depress the pushbutton.  

[crackfoo]

Ok fair enough. I've ordered another standard one. Will survive a few days getting to/from work with a screw driver starter!