
Door Skin Replacement
#1
Posted 18 September 2015 - 11:00 PM
#2
Posted 18 September 2015 - 11:36 PM
Before you fit the skin make sure the frame is clean and has been primed, it is good practice to put a bead of sealer around the frame before the skin goes on.
Lay the door on a flat surface and knock the edges over a little bit at a time all the way round (gradually turn the edge if you bang it straight over you will put stretched areas into the turned edge and it will go all rippley, little by little by little)5 times around the door turning the edge is a good start. DONT STRECH IT your moving the material not shaping it!!!!
Use a flat, preferable toe dolly, on the outside face of the skin and don't put any pressure on the dolly just hold it to stop marking the outside of the skin.
Never hit the outside of the skin, you are turning the inside edge not shaping the skin, all the work should be on the inside area
Make sure your hammer is clean and not bruised as this will be transferred to the work.
once the skin has been fitted, don't weld the top yet, fit it back on the car and check for fit. Might need a bit of a twist, this is normal. Once you are happy weld the tops where the window frame is.
Heritage skins are excellent so you wont have any problems if you get the frame right first, IMPORTANT.
Once all done run a sander around the edge to get rid of any ripples, clean up the turned inside edge as well.
#3
Posted 19 September 2015 - 07:45 AM
#4
Posted 19 September 2015 - 03:18 PM
Something not mentioned here the skin is normally attached with at least three spot welds to the door frame other the two on the window frame, also there is a seam weld at each end at the top. Now before the skin goes on thoroughly check the door frame for rust especially under the hinge mounts. Cracking as well.
As for the skin personally i prime and paint the inside of the skin before it goes on, yes you will get some minor damage to the paint when welded but you can with a bit of care get to this and apply more paint. Remove the damaged paint as far as possible first though. Also remember if you have fitted a new lower section of the door frame to drill three drain holes as tight into the mating flange radius. Deburr on the inside. 1/4" will suffice.
Also take care when you fit the skin to ensure it does not bulge out at the top of the skin where the window scraper seal attaches. There should be a nice parallel gap between the skin and the inner frame.
#5
Posted 19 September 2015 - 05:52 PM
Trial fitted the frame and bent it a little etc to get the line correct and space even around the top frame part and the line down the rear panel even, trial fitted the skin too after putting some strengthening angle brackets at the top of inside panel to window frame to help with them not splitting, all in etch primer now, will recheck and spot weld a few to hold in position when I'm happy with the gaps and tap the edge over with some sealant added. It's no wonder a refurbed door costs so much, there's a fair amount of work/grinding! Cheers for your help chaps, just hope it looks good when I've finished it, the top edge lines up really well, as does all of it, well worth the money for a heritage one, last two I did were on my old mini in the 80's, pattern ones, absolute rubbish lol
Edited by eean, 19 September 2015 - 05:55 PM.
#6
Posted 19 September 2015 - 06:17 PM
Pattern ones can be made to fit well, i normally use these skins if i sell a door. My own car, my lads and another i restored last year will all be heritage.
#7
Posted 19 September 2015 - 08:28 PM

#8
Posted 20 September 2015 - 05:39 PM
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