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Rear Brakes / Wheels


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#1 lewBlew

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Posted 04 November 2015 - 09:45 PM

Was adjusting the rear brakes and handbrake tonight because it needed a lot of pulling up to engage, and noticed the n/s rear wheel spins a bit less freely than the o/s even with the brake adjusted right off - there was a slight scraping noise once every rotation and after many rotations this would cause it to stop. Any ideas?

 

Also the n/s wheel, with the handbrake on and adjusted, n/s would turn a bit easier than the o/s which I thought was odd. May be two unrelated problems... Cable?

 

Thought I would also mention both wheels made a bit of a noise when spinning freely. N/s a constant but quiet noise (may be normal) and o/s a kind of mouse-walking-on-a-gravel-driveway noise, similarly quiet but different  :lol:

 

Also - similar topic - I know I have rubbish tyres on but would a lot of skidding in this wet weather (even at like 20mph) indicate just rubbish tyres or also brake issues? Pedal is strong and I looked at the front discs a month or two ago and they had plenty of life left.


Edited by lewBlew, 04 November 2015 - 10:40 PM.


#2 Steve220

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Posted 04 November 2015 - 09:52 PM

Could be related.

Personally, I'd remove the n/s drum and check the workings underneath to make sure it's all serviceable and as it all should be. Once your happy it is all lubed up and free moving then reassemble and adjust both sides accordingly. Bad tires can cause skidding! Although the roads are a bit greasy at the moment.

#3 lewBlew

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Posted 04 November 2015 - 10:01 PM

Could be related.

Personally, I'd remove the n/s drum and check the workings underneath to make sure it's all serviceable and as it all should be. Once your happy it is all lubed up and free moving then reassemble and adjust both sides accordingly. Bad tires can cause skidding! Although the roads are a bit greasy at the moment.

 

Thanks. My rear tyres are almost bald (don't panic - being replaced this month!!!) and my fronts are Falkens which are seriously pants in the wet.

 

How easy to remove a brake drum?



#4 timmy850

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Posted 04 November 2015 - 10:54 PM

Are you adjusting the handbrake via the cable on the lever? When you adjust the drums using the adjusting screw on the backing plate it's a good idea to step on the pedal to re-centre the shoes then spin the wheel to check. I normally adjust them so they are just scraping on the drums.

 

It's possible the wheel bearings need replacing or regreasing, which might cause a funny noise when rotating the wheels. They would normally make a noise when driving if they need replacing.

 

To remove the drum, take off the wheels, the two little screws and the drum should pull off. 



#5 lewBlew

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Posted 04 November 2015 - 11:40 PM

Are you adjusting the handbrake via the cable on the lever? When you adjust the drums using the adjusting screw on the backing plate it's a good idea to step on the pedal to re-centre the shoes then spin the wheel to check. I normally adjust them so they are just scraping on the drums.

 

It's possible the wheel bearings need replacing or regreasing, which might cause a funny noise when rotating the wheels. They would normally make a noise when driving if they need replacing.

 

To remove the drum, take off the wheels, the two little screws and the drum should pull off. 

 

Thanks for the info. I totally forgot about the stepping on the pedal thing. I will try it again. Is just scraping on the drums ok for driving?

 

I have noticed a noise while driving recently (have put 7,000 miles on the thing since Feb!) like a booming noise but it's not been so bad I've been worried.

 

I thought taking off the drum involved taking off hubs and stuff but I've never really dealt with the rear wheels, only the front ones.



#6 GraemeC

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Posted 05 November 2015 - 10:23 AM

To remove the drum -

Back the adjuster on the backplate right off then tap around the circumference of the drum with a soft face hammer or block of wood.

Remove the drum securing screw(s) which are the cross headed screws in between the wheel studs.

Pull the drum off over the studs.  Dependant on wear and previous maintenance this could be easy or hard!

 

Check everything moves as it should, that there are no leaks, that the handbrake lever is free and that there is plenty of meat on the shoes.  If you remove the shoes ensure they go back on in the correct orientation and that the springs are in the right places and the right way up etc.

 

Check the handbrake quadrants on the radius arms move freely

 

When adjusting the brakes back up again, I give a few good, hard tugs on the handbrake cable where is runs between the quadrant on the arm and the backplate.



#7 midridge2

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Posted 05 November 2015 - 11:07 AM

Sorry, but if you have to ask how to take the drums off I recommend that you take it to a garage and let them do it, brakes are very important on a car.



#8 lewBlew

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Posted 05 November 2015 - 12:33 PM

Sorry, but if you have to ask how to take the drums off I recommend that you take it to a garage and let them do it, brakes are very important on a car.

 

We all have to do things for the first time once. Last year I rebuilt the entire front suspension and brakes, working from the manual step by step. Hasn't fallen apart 18 months later. I just haven't done drums before so asked the question to gauge how much of a faff it is.



#9 David128

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Posted 05 November 2015 - 12:38 PM

+1 for GraemeC  



#10 Cooperman

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Posted 05 November 2015 - 06:02 PM

To remove the drums:

 

Jack up and remove the road wheel.

Back off the adjusters at least 1 full turn.

Remove the small set screws in the face of the drum.

Pull the drum off by tapping the outside edge with a copper mallet or small hammer.

 

Once it is off:

 

Check the slave cylinders carefully for signs of a leak. Fit new ones it ANY moisture is found inside the rubber covers.

Inspect the surface and thickness of the brake linings for glazing and remaining material. Fit new linings if necessary.

Clean and lightly re-lubricate the handbrake linkage inside the drum. Clean with 'brake & clutch cleaner'.

 

Re-assemble then tighten each adjuster until the drum will not move. You don't actually need to use the set screws as the drum is held on by the wheel. Back the adjusters slightly until the wheel will turn with slight resistance.

Clean the handbrake linkage where it sits outside the back-plate and re-lubricate with grease.

Clean, free-off if necessary an d re-lubricate the quadrant where the handbrake cable turns through 90 degrees at the forward end of the radius arm.



#11 Spitz

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Posted 05 November 2015 - 07:40 PM

I'd give your wheels a spin with the adjusters backed right off....also, grab at 12 and 6 o'clock and give a wiggle.  If there's any play you need bearings....also, when you spin the wheel...if it spins and spins and spins and you hear a little "grrrrr"...you need bearings.

 

If you're fitting new shoes...make sure they are on the right way round....find a picture






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