14 replies to this topic

[russo]

Hi, I have a 1972, 1275 Mini with 13x7 wheels and 1.5 degree negative camber front and rear. When I get over 120 km per hour and deaccelerate the car dives violently to the right. When I accelerate it dives violently to the left. When it first happened it nearly ended in tears as I wasn't prepared, now I'm aware at least it can be counteracted. I have just spent 6 years on a major restoration and replaced or reconditioned every part. Any feed back would be appreciated as it needs to be sorted. Thanks in advance.

[timmy850]

Did you do any work to the diff/gearbox? I've read that an incorrectly shimmed diff can cause the same symptoms. It could also be a wheel alignment problem or tie rod bushes etc..

 

Similar thread here (you might need to register though):

http://mk1-forum.net...hilit=diff shim

Edited by timmy850, 05 November 2015 - 04:25 AM.

[smudger068]

id go for a tracking check.

my focus used to do this before it was done.

 

Lee

[nicklouse]

sounds like worn suspension bushes.

[mini13]

13x7's can be a nightmare for this due to the massive offset.

 

as above check the bushes, (personally I run rosejoints in boots with adjustable everything).

 

and then get it set up properly, beware of too much negative camber on 13's it dosent suit the low profile tyres, I would aim for 0.5 degree negative camber all round, and about 4 degrees of caster. 1/16" toe out all round. also get corner weights checked, and dont go too hard on the shock adjustment.

 

oh, solid mount the front subframe too if its not already done.

[russo]

Thanks all for your feed back. Every part of steering is brand new (rack & pinion, swivol joints, tie rod ends, bilstein shocks etc.) including new adjustable tie bars and lower arms. All purchased from Mini Spares. I'm suspect too of 13x7's. Yes I have recond. diff (bearings, shims, gaskets & seals) and did think about shims and end float. Wheel alignment been set up 4 times as had heaps of problems getting car certified due to modifications. The only thing I haven't done is solidly mount subframe. Cheers Russ

[nicklouse]

It will be set up.

What suspension are you running

[Turbo Nick]

That's not torque steer, just a bad component somewhere.

 

Sounds like tie bars to me, check where they mount to the subframe isn't ready to break as that's pretty common. Which bushes are you running in them? I know they do a mix of rubber and poly at minispares which I always found decent.

[Spider]

Thanks all for your feed back. Every part of steering is brand new (rack & pinion, swivol joints, tie rod ends, bilstein shocks etc.) including new adjustable tie bars and lower arms. All purchased from Mini Spares. I'm suspect too of 13x7's. Yes I have recond. diff (bearings, shims, gaskets & seals) and did think about shims and end float. Wheel alignment been set up 4 times as had heaps of problems getting car certified due to modifications. The only thing I haven't done is solidly mount subframe. Cheers Russ

 

Yes fitting big wheels will make it very sensitive to anything that's the slightest bit 'off'.

 

I can not see it being the diff. That urban legend seems have stemmed by something that David Vizard once wrote, I spoke to him about that 25 odd years ago, and even before I finished talking, he knew that was wrong, but there's never been an up date on the book so the wrong info / legend is still floating about.

 

In regards to your new parts, I'd like to suggest to keep an open mind, just because they are new, doesn't mean they are right. Only this morning, I binned 6 sets (uppers and lowers) of new ball joints, fresh in sealed bags. Incorrect heat treatment. I'll have a rant about that elsewhere.

 

I'm inclined to suspect the RH Steering Arm is not tight enough on the hub, or the Steering Rod end is loose, or there's not enough Toe Out on the fronts (and it wouldn't hurt to dial in a tad extra ~0.25 - 0.5 mm with those big wheels). Well, that's probably where I'd start looking.

Edited by Moke Spider, 05 November 2015 - 11:47 PM.

[russo]

Hi again, I'm running rubber cone suspension with Hi-Lo's. Tie bar mounts all good and running poly bushes. Lifted car on hoist last week-end thinking something was loose. All I found was inner hardy spicer flange bolts a bit loose. (half a turn) Could try Moke Spider's suggestion on steering angles. As I've just had vehicle certified, they went over steering with a fine toothed comb so all should be good and I've rechecked myself as well. Keep coming up with all the great suggestions, really appreciate all your help. Cheers Russ

[nicklouse]

Hi again, I'm running rubber cone suspension with Hi-Lo's.

 

have you checked your corner weights? they dont have to be exact but any big differences does effect the feel.

 

final thought what is the ET of the wheels?

 

finally try out some narrower wheels to see the difference.

[A-Cell]

First check everything is mechanically intact. Then recheck toe and castor. Toe needs to be toe out as has been said, Castor needs to be 3-4 deg but make sure it is the same each side. Same applies to Camber 0 to -5 deg and same both sides.

[russo]

Appreciate all the comments, will work on them and see what happens. Once again thanks and will keep in touch.
Cheers Russ.

[russo]

Hi Guy's, seems problem solved by Moke Spider. Appears RH Steering Arm Nuts and little loose. Got about 1/4 of a turn out of each nut. Problem solved thanks.

[Spider]

Good work