Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Quick Clutch Bleeding Setup Question


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 driftz

driftz

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 146 posts
  • Location: richmond

Posted 13 November 2015 - 08:04 PM

Quick clutch bleeding question.

 

Do you bleed the clutch after setting the mechanical freeplay on the bolt and big nut, or before. My thinking being, that if the mechanical freeplay is all backed off when bleeding, you can get the full motion of the hydraulics, without them being impeded by the stoppers. However, with the stopper set first, you have a finite amount of play to work within to get the air out.

 

thoughts?



#2 littlewimp

littlewimp

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 104 posts
  • Location: forest of dean. gloucestershire

Posted 13 November 2015 - 09:04 PM

i dont think that the travel would make any difference to the bleeding operation because you will still push the same ammount of fluid through the system via the master cylinder.



#3 sledgehammer

sledgehammer

    Up Into Fourth

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,129 posts
  • Location: I'm sittin here besides my self

Posted 13 November 2015 - 10:22 PM

as above - you are just trying to remove the air when bleeding - not move the arm

 

some (non automotive) hydraulic set up's will need the piston / ram moving to expose the bleed nipple channel (I work on hydraulic machinery)

 

but on most hyd clutches I have worked on - no movement is necessary & bleed is usually uppermost in the cylinder

 

but bleed before adjustment anyway

 

 

 

edit one place on a mini where the bleed is at the bottom of the cylinder - is on the rear brake cylinders

 

they can sometimes can be a pig if the pistons are out a bit - they can trap air


Edited by sledgehammer, 13 November 2015 - 10:27 PM.


#4 peter-b

peter-b

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 773 posts
  • Location: Central Coast of NSW
  • Local Club: still looking

Posted 14 November 2015 - 12:00 AM

If you're doing it on your own the free play helps. You pump up as much as possible, wait a minute, then push the slave cylinder in. Pushes air up and out M/C. Then adjust free play.

#5 driftz

driftz

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 146 posts
  • Location: richmond

Posted 14 November 2015 - 12:22 AM

as above - you are just trying to remove the air when bleeding - not move the arm

 

some (non automotive) hydraulic set up's will need the piston / ram moving to expose the bleed nipple channel (I work on hydraulic machinery)

 

but on most hyd clutches I have worked on - no movement is necessary & bleed is usually uppermost in the cylinder

 

but bleed before adjustment anyway

 

 

 

edit one place on a mini where the bleed is at the bottom of the cylinder - is on the rear brake cylinders

 

they can sometimes can be a pig if the pistons are out a bit - they can trap air

 

This makes me think that the most efficient way of bleeding would be to remove the slave push rod from the clutch arm and pull it out to its furthest point of its extension. Then just bleed as if there was no moving parts in the slave. This might make less places for air to hide in the slave? hmm...



#6 Blatherskite

Blatherskite

    Super Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 501 posts
  • Location: Bærum
  • Local Club: Norsk Mini Cooper Club

Posted 14 November 2015 - 09:25 AM


as above - you are just trying to remove the air when bleeding - not move the arm
 
some (non automotive) hydraulic set up's will need the piston / ram moving to expose the bleed nipple channel (I work on hydraulic machinery)
 
but on most hyd clutches I have worked on - no movement is necessary & bleed is usually uppermost in the cylinder
 
but bleed before adjustment anyway
 
 
 
edit one place on a mini where the bleed is at the bottom of the cylinder - is on the rear brake cylinders
 
they can sometimes can be a pig if the pistons are out a bit - they can trap air

 
This makes me think that the most efficient way of bleeding would be to remove the slave push rod from the clutch arm and pull it out to its furthest point of its extension. Then just bleed as if there was no moving parts in the slave. This might make less places for air to hide in the slave? hmm...

Very easy to fire out the slave piston doing that. Then start all over again...

#7 driftz

driftz

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 146 posts
  • Location: richmond

Posted 14 November 2015 - 03:48 PM

 

 

as above - you are just trying to remove the air when bleeding - not move the arm
 
some (non automotive) hydraulic set up's will need the piston / ram moving to expose the bleed nipple channel (I work on hydraulic machinery)
 
but on most hyd clutches I have worked on - no movement is necessary & bleed is usually uppermost in the cylinder
 
but bleed before adjustment anyway
 
 
 
edit one place on a mini where the bleed is at the bottom of the cylinder - is on the rear brake cylinders
 
they can sometimes can be a pig if the pistons are out a bit - they can trap air

 
This makes me think that the most efficient way of bleeding would be to remove the slave push rod from the clutch arm and pull it out to its furthest point of its extension. Then just bleed as if there was no moving parts in the slave. This might make less places for air to hide in the slave? hmm...

Very easy to fire out the slave piston doing that. Then start all over again...

 

 

on my slave at least there is a locking circlip that keeps it from popping out.






1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users