8 replies to this topic

[PaulColeman]

How do I tell a genuine 1966 998cc Cooper from a 'look-alike'? This one has only one filler cap and I thought the Coopers had 2? Is there a difference in the chassis numbers? What about other tell-tale signs to look for? Where would the chassis numbers have been on a 1966 car?

 

What sort of price would you expect to pay for a restoration project which has been off the road for 10 years and needs a full restoration?

 

Thanks, Paul.

Edited by PaulColeman, 14 November 2015 - 09:45 PM.

[sledgehammer]

I think cooperman - or the cooper register will be the best people to ask

 

how many fuel tanks has it got ? cooper s had the extra tank

 

brackets to support the boot board - riveted up to 1966 spot welded in place after 1966 

 

is it hydro elastic ?  21 hydro-elastic pipe clips spot welded to it , if original wet cooper

 

servo holes in inner front wing for servo ? 

 

if it has been used for rally or racing or even normal use , it may have gone thru several shells in it's early life

 

I take it the shell is a mk1 ?

 

am I right in thinking the chassis number was a screwed plate on the radiator cowling ? that could be swapped from car to car

 

does it have 2 gear lever holes - nearest to the bulkhead plated over ?

 

as for a value - everyone wants it to be a genuine barn find -

 

but it's a 49 year old car , it will be a bit of a triggers broom

 

 

http://www.minimania...ification_Guide

 

edit - just re-read - cooper not cooper s - modified text for cooper

 

really could do with some pic's - esp engine bay & boot

Edited by sledgehammer, 14 November 2015 - 11:09 PM.

[nicklouse]

Also twin tanks were only standard on the S from 66.

But saying that depending on the earlier owners twin tanks could have been a period addition or even a factory option.

So in that case you will need a good paper trail.

As they say without provenance it could be anything.

[Daz1968]

Chassis number should start ca2s7 if austin ka2s4 if morris, but as for the shell there are tell tale signs such as factory cut out for remote gear lever, plate over magic wand gear lever hole, boot board brackets spot welded to seat bulk head, rivets on door frames for stainless trims,
998 cooper only had single tank as std, you really need to read up on it or take someone who knows cooper cars.
Value will really come down to condition and amount of parts missing so not easy to judge without more information.

Edited by Daz1968, 14 November 2015 - 10:39 PM.

[AlexMozza]

There is a really good book about the Cooper and Cooper S. Tells you all the variations, and changes with relevant chassis numbers and engine numbers.
Worth buying if your serious about getting one.

[PaulColeman]

Thanks all - I'll see if I can get some pictures of the engine bay but the car doesn't appear to have been messed about with and looks original from what I can see.

 

Assuming it's complete and not a basket case is £6,500 reasonable?

 

Cheers, Paul.

Edited by PaulColeman, 15 November 2015 - 08:14 PM.

[AlexMozza]

Any link to pictures or advert?

[ace01]

John Parnell's book Original Mini Cooper and S is the book to get.  Alternatively the MCR have a buyers guide that is basic but good.  If you have pictures, put those up.

[Spitz]

See what speedo it has...I think the 998 would be 100mph

Disc brakes might be the original 7"

Possibly chroime trim around door window frame

Remote gearshift

Check the engine #

Head should be 12g295