12 replies to this topic

[mr_chris93]

Thread answered. Thanks

Edited by mr_chris93, 13 August 2020 - 04:26 PM.

[Dzmarc]

Radweld could work, (although I have never had any luck) but I would consider if it is worth it. 

 

Check the rest of the Rad to see if there is any missing fins etc, as this could be a sign of more damage and weak points. 

If they look okay then Radweld may be a good option, but when you think of it as almost £10 delivered, its not a lot more for a brand new radiator (£50), at least then you would not have to worry about coolant loss. 

 

 

Either way hope you get it sorted. 

[GraemeC]

K-seal is supposed to be better than rad weld and your local motor factors may stock it.  Either of these should only be a temporary solution (if they cure the leak) and replacing the radiator should be your priority.  After all - if it is corrosion that has caused the leak, chances are another hole will soon appear.

[Mon_Papillon]

Mini rads are cheap enough, get it changed :)

[stoneface]

If it's of copper/brass construction then solder it up, if you have the equipment.

If it's of plastic/aluminum construction buy a new one.

Radweld and the alike are not permanent fixes.

[Mini 360]

If it's of copper/brass construction then solder it up, if you have the equipment.

If it's of plastic/aluminum construction buy a new one.

Radweld and the alike are not permanent fixes.

I think brazing would be a better option than soldering.  Soldering should ideally be kept for electrical connections (although it's not much use in a car though due to the vibrations)

[Steve220]

You'll need to have it braised as they're copper.

Do NOT put rad weld, k-seal or any snake oil remedies into a cooling system. It's designed to activate on contact with water then set in contact with air. If you have any trapped air in the system it will create a clotted mess that will gum up your radiator, potentially causing over heating, or prematurely wear out your water pump. It is horrid stuff and I still have no idea what it's on the market still. A bit like t-cut.

[stoneface]

I used to solder them back in the good old days. Never had an issue.

Brazing requires far more heat which is likely to melt the rest of the radiator joints.

If you want to go one up on solder, use silver solder.

[dyshipfakta]

K seal rad weld etc are aweful don't waste your money just get a new rad. Would even use an egg over those products atleast it's easy to get rid off. They get everywhere block everything up and are generally just garbage.

[russo]

Only one fix as far as I'm concerned, remove radiator, have repaired and cleaned out by authorised radiator repairer as they flow test and pressure test when completed or replace with new radiator. Additives are only a temporary repair and tend to clog up and block radiators and should never be used for a long term remedy.

[spiguy]

As above, don't put radweld or anything like that in. I used bar's leaks (which by the way is actually very good at what it does!) when my heater matrix started to leak. Only did it because I was skint. It did work, but then I laid the car up for a couple of years and it solidified in various places and made a right mess. Regretted doing it.  Just bite the bullet and renew the rad, or repair it / have it repaired. You'll  be glad  you did in the long run.

[Dusky]

I heard good things about jb weld, but it depends on how obvious and accessible the leak is ofc

[smurfomatic]

You could use JB Weld, but as it's a liquid you would need to drain the coolant system and allow it to set for 24hrs before refilling.

 

Another option is JB Waterweld - it's a putty-like substance that is supposed to set in wet conditions in about an hour. Once set it's rock hard and watertight - even works on fuel tanks as I found out during my major hassle with a leaking fuel sender...