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#1 Pickwah

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Posted 26 November 2015 - 12:17 PM

Quick question really, before I drop my engine back in I'm in need of some new mounts.

 

Ive read you can get mounts with captive nuts?

 

Is there any benefit to the nuts being captive before I order them?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

:proud:



#2 imaparana

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Posted 26 November 2015 - 12:19 PM

its a lot easier to fit and you don't need to hold a nut the other side



#3 limby2000

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Posted 26 November 2015 - 12:29 PM

I mig welded nuts on the back of mine as you can't get the captive nut mounts for auto box. Worth doing I think as they are a pain.

#4 nicklouse

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Posted 26 November 2015 - 12:58 PM

read a lot of people hate the captive nut versions.

 

I guess it is to do with the quality of the means of holding the captive part captive. it seems that it is a friction (or fine spline) interface that does not last well.

 

yes using nuts can be a pain but easier in the long run. just get the correct length 3/8" IIRC drop them in from the inside and spring washer and plain nut from the outside.

 

and a spanner bent to suit.



#5 racingbob

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Posted 26 November 2015 - 01:17 PM

just get the minispares genuine rubber ones

 

better rubber and fit better



#6 slidehammer

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Posted 26 November 2015 - 01:35 PM

Last time a changed a set (about 9 months ago) I used the standard ones and found them easier to do than I remembered. Maybe I have just got more patient over the years!. I didn't use the captive nut version just in case the rubber wasn't as good, as rubber products are hopeless and don't last at all well these days



#7 Dusky

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Posted 26 November 2015 - 03:02 PM

I got captive nuts, after taking the engine out a couple of times due to my crank problems only 1 nut failed, but it can still be tightened with the conventional method.

#8 imaparana

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Posted 26 November 2015 - 03:06 PM

I think as long as you don't go at them like a gorilla they'll last



#9 Batmini

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Posted 26 November 2015 - 04:00 PM

I think the standard non-captive ones are easier to fit, they allow for a little more 'wiggle-room' when fitting

#10 Spider

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Posted 26 November 2015 - 08:26 PM



I think as long as you don't go at them like a gorilla they'll last

 

Yes and no.

 

I tend to use a phillips driver through the holes to line them up and with the captive or welded nuts this can be tricky. Also, when the nut eventually buggers up (hopefully never) it makes a slightly awkward job a ripe pain in the back side.

 

I used to weld nuts on about 30 years ago but only for a short time as I found it made more problems than it solved. I then dreamed up this little jem;-

 

EngineMountToolWM_zpsr7phiop3.jpg



#11 russo

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Posted 26 November 2015 - 08:53 PM

What a great idea. (Until Mother finds out her cutlery draw is running short on folks)

#12 59 Speed

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Posted 26 November 2015 - 09:02 PM

That my friend should be on Dragons Den 😛

#13 racingbob

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Posted 27 November 2015 - 04:31 PM

you need to put all your great ideas on the forum and sell them

 

apart from the fork as a 5 year old could make

 

but its certainly something you wouldn't think of, amazing



#14 Cooperman

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Posted 27 November 2015 - 06:14 PM

Captive nuts in the mounts are fine until a bolt goes in slightly cross-threaded. Then the captive nut breaks out and the bolt has to be ground off as it's impossible to hold the what was captive nut to undo the bolt. 'Been there, done that, had the aggro'!



#15 Dusky

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Posted 27 November 2015 - 06:20 PM

The minisport captive nuts are just normal flanged nuts, so when it breaks off you can still hold the nut with a spanner




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