15 replies to this topic

[Daz1968]

Just after a little advice before I drop my boot floor out.
Currently I have new full floor fitted along with doorsteps welded to b pillar and floor spotwelded to toe board. How much bracing is required in order to drop the boot floor out. I was planning on brace across wheel tubs and maybe back to the hinge panel. Then cut around floor and drop it out. Is this adequate.
The floor is in correct position as I have both subframes on at moment and all dimensions are spot on.the shell is also level. Would appreciate any advice from anyone who has tackled this.

[Ben_O]

I didn't brace and didn't see the need to. As long as the arch tubs are welded in everywhere else then there won't be any problems.

 

If you really wanted to brace, the you could add on between the arch tubs but there really isn't any need.

 

You have the back panel, heelboard, rear bulkhead and parcel shelf to hold everything square and once the floor goes in and is clamped up then everything will be golden

[Ben_O]

It would also be worth dropping the rear frame down, clamp up the boot floor and then rise the frame back up and bolt it in place to check the rear mounts are in the right place

[Daz1968]

Thanks, my heel board is attached to floor assembly but nothing rear of b post is attached to the floor, not sure if this makes any difference, maybe rear bulkhead and wheel tubs will be all needed

Edited by Daz1968, 29 November 2015 - 03:19 PM.

[Ben_O]

The only thing that can move really is the boot lid hinge rail but if it is solid, then not my much and only forward or backwards by a small amount so once clamped up, trial fit the boot lid before welding.

 

Honestly though,if the boot floor is in the right place (subframe rear mounts line up) then you can just pull the hinge panel to where it needs to be by using the bumper holes to line them up

[Daz1968]

Thanks,

Will cut it out Tuesday, I have a new s/h bootlid to fit so will trial for that as well,

[sonikk4]

The only thing i braced was across the towers but i had also chopped out the rear panel. Now having done this twice as long as the rear panel is in place you should be fine without bracing. Oh and a word of warning before using the rear panel to pull the bumper holes into place, make sure you don't go mad as you can distort things.

 

As for the boot lid make sure you trial fit it first before chopping anything out. You may be surprised at how bad it might fit. I trialled one off my mates 91 Cooper and the fit was crap. Tried my original one even with the damage it had sustained in the accident and the fit was perfect. This was AFTER i had replaced the rear panel from the window down. Do not take for granted it will fit perfectly. 

 

Once the boot floor is in place then start replacing the arches etc.

[Daz1968]

Thanks,

After reading replies have decided to chop out the boot floor, then spotweld this to the heal board whilst the subframe is in place and alignment checked, then bolt rear panel to boot floor as will be replacing rear panel later, then replace wheel tub and closing panel followed by replacing rear bin and rear quarter repair panels one side at a time, then after this replace the rear panel up to rear window using my preferred bootlid to aid fit, then replace the rear bulkhead panel, so looks like I will be busy for a while.

[sonikk4]

Thanks,

After reading replies have decided to chop out the boot floor, then spotweld this to the heal board whilst the subframe is in place and alignment checked, then bolt rear panel to boot floor as will be replacing rear panel later, then replace wheel tub and closing panel followed by replacing rear bin and rear quarter repair panels one side at a time, then after this replace the rear panel up to rear window using my preferred bootlid to aid fit, then replace the rear bulkhead panel, so looks like I will be busy for a while.

 

That lot sounds about right. Pretty much how i did it on Paddy apart from the rear bulkhead. You will find the boot floor rear edge does not marry up quite properly with the original rear panel or even the new one so expect some trimming. Just a difference in pressings over the years.

[Daz1968]

Thanks the advice has really helped, I have done plenty of small repairs before but this is largest project I have taken on,

[sonikk4]

Thanks the advice has really helped, I have done plenty of small repairs before but this is largest project I have taken on,

 

Take your time and be patient with it. Remember the inner arches inner lip is not flush with the boot floor return. There is a small difference there. The boot floor sits slightly higher up the inner arch by roughly 3mm. Do a comparison before you take the floor out.

[CBJ805T]

I recently tackled this job and like you had nothing back from the B pillar connected to the floor. I welded a brace between the inside of the rear Arches but not sure this did much (made me feel better). With the boot floor out there there was noticeable free movement of the rear of the car (1/4 panels back).

 

If you have a rear sub jig or similar you can all align it all back up again once the boot floor is in, but for peace of mind (and if I were doing it again) I would take a brace from the B-B pillar and attached it to either the seat back or diagonally to each C pillar.

[bangermadness08]

Does anyone have pics as I'm going through this soon Ifind pics easier to follow than words

[sonikk4]

Does anyone have pics as I'm going through this soon Ifind pics easier to follow than words

 

Look at my signature Project Paddy

 

 

http://www.theminifo...3

[feybrand]

i did this last week ....1 piece of advice ...don't assume your original floor is the right size or in the right place

 

my old bootfloor had had a lot of repairs and wasnt the right length or even the right shape ,i didnt realise lined everything up off it then dropped it out and the new floor didnt even come close to fitting right.

 

still not 100 percent sure its all ok now ...wont know untill its got wheels on i suppose