12 replies to this topic

[Stu1961]

Hi looking to replace all my brake pipes and am looking for a flaring tool or tools to do the job, can't seem to find a suitable tool for flaring the SAE Bubble end type (Male) though.

Thanks for any help.

[nicklouse]

Just about every one I have seen does them.

What are you looking at?

[Stu1961]

The Draper one, http://www.drapertoo...pe-Flaring-Tool got the impression it only did single or double flares though after reading the Manual

Edited by Stu1961, 04 December 2015 - 07:21 PM.

[nicklouse]

The Draper one, http://www.drapertoo...pe-Flaring-Tool got the impression it only did single or double flares though after reading the Manual

Yes you need a different one. I have two of them one fir the Mini and the other for everything else. Both for not much more than that advert from Frost last year.

[nicklouse]

This is the kit I got

http://www.frost.co....l-set-4790.html

And the Din one you need.

http://www.frost.co....ehicle-use.html

[Stu1961]

Nick, thanks for the replies so it's DIN and not SAE then. 

 

Cheers

[nicklouse]

Nick, thanks for the replies so it's DIN and not SAE then. 
 
Cheers

Hang on just read you post and actually understood it. The tool you have does both flare types.

For some reason I was of on the odd metric thread that is needed for one of the connections.


That tool makes the male flare first and the other end is used for the female flare. All covered in the instructions. The setting distance. Doing the first flare and then the second flare if needed.

[Ethel]

SAE is Imperial (Society of Automotive Engineers)

 

DIN is Metric (Deutsches Institut für Normung)

[Stu1961]

Think I understand how the tools work now after reading this (Quote from the following page) http://www.dimebank....kePlumbing.html and your last post Nick

 

 

Quote " The bubble flare is used with a male swivel nut, and seals at the bottom of a drilled and tapped hole, with a nice angled bottom. While it can usually be resealed, it has a limited lifetime - there's no good way to get back the deformation that was crushed out for the first seal, short of remaking the flare from scratch.

Making such a flare is easy: if you are in possession of a standard 45 degree double flaring tool, the bubble flare is what results after the first half of the operation. Simply stop there, and you have the bubble flare which will seat nicely at the bottom of the hole. If you continue, inverting the form tool and finishing the job, you then have the more familiar double flare used by Girling and the US automotive industry."

 

Didn't realise the bubble is created after the first operation, before turning the punch around to create a standard double flare. having not seen the tool in the flesh so to speak I was a little unsure. Will get the SAE version and get a pre made pipe for were the Din fitting is used which I believe is the one that goes from the 'Tee' on the rear sub, forward, not sure which end though.  

[nicklouse]

Here are the instructions from frost, which I guess will be the same as the ones with yours, very clear and simple.

http://www.frost.co....-1437664215.pdf

Ad if you have not got it yet it might be an idea to order from Frost and also use the forum discount and also take advantage other TMF+ advantages.

[Stu1961]

Cheers Nick, help much appreciated.  

[tiger99]

If this is for a Mini, I don't think there is a DIN flare anywhere. The only metric threads are on the dual circuit master cylinders, to prevent incorrect connection, and although there are two different metric threads, 10mm and 12mm, used on the male tube nuts, the flares are standard. The main front to back pipe has standard male UNF threads at both ends and these are very unlikely to be associated with a DIN flare.

 

The safets way to proceed is to feel down the ports on each item with something soft and thin like a matchstick. (Doing it by eye can be deceptive.) If the seating is like a countersink, i.e. it sinks towards the bore in the middle, you use a bubble flare. If it (unusually, but I have seen it, not on a Mini) rises towards the central bore, you use a double flare. If it is going on a tapered hose end, again double flare and male tube nut.

 

I have renewed the complete system in Kunifer on 2 Minis, with dual circuit master cylinders, and one older single circuit one in steel, before Kunifer was available, and never had to use anything but a bubble or double flare.

[Stu1961]

Thanks for that Tiger, will bare in mind your comments. All great advice and ultimately makes the job easier.