12 replies to this topic

[overdrive]

Guys,

 

Just swapped out a rear subframe for a replacement unit. Now at the stage of reattaching the radius arms, and one side has gone on ok (with some wrangling). Now I am having some real issues getting the second side on. The bracket for holding the outer end of the radius arm to the subframe simply will not line up, as if the arm is too long to attach to the subframe mount points.

 

We have tried torquing the ends tight to the arm, and trying to wriggle the holes to align with the nuts slack, but nothing is working for us.

 

Any suggestions as to what might be going wrong?

[nicklouse]

you are using the brackets that cam with the replacement subframe?

there is nor some spacers still there that should not be there?

how far out is it?

[Spider]

Some of the non-pattern subframes I've seen are not brilliant, though given the prices of the pattern ones, I see why people buy the non-pattern ones.

 

The space needed to fit the swing arm in is 8.402" + the thickness of the thrusts (sorry, I don't have any to hand to check). I'd suggest removing the arm, fitting up the bracket, nipping it up and measuring the space you have to compare to this figure. Then you'll know if the subframe is out or if it's an assembly problem.

[overdrive]

The frame is used and came bare... although I'm sure it is an original unit given its age.

 

Either way I guess its coming back off then. Is there any chance the rubber bushings on the end could be swollen?

[nicklouse]

there are no rubber bushing that could cause issues the arms and subframe are metal on metal contact. there are only rubber rings to stop dirt ingress between the arm and washers.

[kezzkitkat]

Check the camber brackets failing that check the pin without the radius

[slidehammer]

Some top advice above, my guess would be you have a washer in the wrong place on the inner rather than outer of the subframe, I am sure there is an exploded diagram in the Hayes Manual of the assembly.

[GraemeC]

I doubt the frame will need to come off to sort this - there would be little you could do to it.

 

Things to check:

That there are no old thrust washers stuck to the frame or the outer bracket

That there is only one thrust washer at each end of arm

That there is nothing between the thrust washer and the arm (other than a smear of grease)

That the pin isn't frozen in the arm and sticking out of one end too far.

 

With all that checked, I would do as suggested above and try and fit the pin (with thrust washers) on its own.  If that work then there may be damage to the end of the arm, or either the bearing or bush has moved, stopping it fitting.

 

And if there was absolutely no other way to fix it, I would be looking to either file (or weld up and re-drill if extreme) the holes in the outer bracket.

[overdrive]

Thanks for the advice, I will have another go at this soon and get some pics up.

[overdrive]

I doubt the frame will need to come off to sort this - there would be little you could do to it.

 

Things to check:

That there are no old thrust washers stuck to the frame or the outer bracket

That there is only one thrust washer at each end of arm

That there is nothing between the thrust washer and the arm (other than a smear of grease)

That the pin isn't frozen in the arm and sticking out of one end too far.

 

With all that checked, I would do as suggested above and try and fit the pin (with thrust washers) on its own.  If that work then there may be damage to the end of the arm, or either the bearing or bush has moved, stopping it fitting.

 

And if there was absolutely no other way to fix it, I would be looking to either file (or weld up and re-drill if extreme) the holes in the outer bracket.

 

Option 3 was the winner. Feel a bit daft for this, but in my efforts to clean up every other bit of the subframe, I forgot to strip and regrease the thrust washers. The level of gank in there was disgraceful. Cleaned and regreased and it now fits a treat...

 

Cheers for the pointers, all greatly appreciated. We now have a ready subframe!
 

[tiger99]

Your next battle is getting the mounts to line up with the bolt holes in the car. Been there a few times! Often needs a lot of force to flex the mounting rubbers. Good luck!

[GraemeC]

To be honest, I've never understood why people build up rear subframes prior to fitting - it's much easier to wrestle a lighter, bare frame into position, then bolt on all the parts.

[tiger99]

It is all a matter of individual preference. The factory built them up before fitting, but they had equipment for handling them properly. Doing it at home, the subframe can be awkward if the other heavy bits are fitted. It is probably easier to fit the exhaust mounts and brake pipes, bolt the subframe in, and then fit the radius arms, with dampers attached, if you don't have suitable lifting facilities to lift the entire assembly in a controlled manner. Cones, trumpets and knuckles go in afterwards, followed finally by damper top attachments, then brake hoses into brackets on arms, and short hose to backplate pipes last. Finally wheels of course.

 

I have fitted a fully assembled subframe too, but I had several jacks and lots of odd bits of timber to assist. Do what you feel comfortable with. If it is all torqued up properly, the end result is identical in both cases.