9 replies to this topic

[Howie1000]

Hi,

I have a '75 Clubman, so old that it only has one arm on the steering column and the screenwasher isn't even electric.
I have installed a 1275 Metro engine, but the dizzy is the electronic ignition sort without points. Any ideas as to how I'd wire that up? Also, I have a solenoid on the inner wing, yet on this metro engine, it looks like it has a solenoid on the starter motor, is that to be used instead?

Many thanks for your help and advice.

David.

Edited by Howie1000, 17 December 2015 - 01:24 AM.

[nicklouse]

First ID the dizzy fitted than find out if it should have an external box of tricks or not. Then look up the wiring needed or buy a fizzy that will work.

Starter sounds like you have one fitted that has the solenoid on it. You can do one of two things change the starter to suit the wiring and flywheel. Or remove the old solenoid and extend/replace the wiring.

[Howie1000]

Pretty sure the starter has the solenoid fitted, I do have some different ones from previous mini's, I'll see if they fit, with regards to the dizzy, I quite like the idea of it having no points and an elec ignition, just not sure how to wire it?
Cheers.

[Dusky]

There is a thread in the FAQ about wiring up a 65dm4 dizzy, have a look.

[GraemeC]

The pre-engaged starter (Metro) will be matched to the ring gear - changing it to the older inertia type probably means it won't.

 

Adapting the wiring is not at all difficult - you'll find many threads on how to do it.  Essentially move the cable that went between the solenoid and the old starter onto the other big post on the solenoid (ie the same one as the battery lead is on).  Then disconnect the white/red wire from the solenoid and extend it to the big spade terminal on the Metro starter.

Edited by GraemeC, 17 December 2015 - 08:10 AM.

[dklawson]

I will make one suggestion that deviates from GraemeC's advice.

 

Do not move the white/red wire from the old wing mounted remote solenoid.  Instead (on your new pre-engaged starter) make a short jumper wire that goes between its "start" spade terminal and the threaded post where you attach the big cable from the remote solenoid.

 

The pre-engaged starter solenoids draw more current than the remote mounted solenoid.  Later cars include a starter relay when the pre-engaged starter is used to protect the ignition switch and its wiring from carrying excessive current.  If you install the jumper wire I mention above, you are using the remote solenoid to achieve essentially the same thing as the starter relay used on later cars.  You will be protecting your ignition switch.

[Ethel]

As Doug says, use the remote solenoid as a relay for the pre engaged one. This is also the simplest as you can leave most of the wiring where it is, just swap the thick cable to the starter to the battery post and add an "actuating" wire between the now empty starter post on the wing solenoid and the appropriate spade on the new starter.

 

As Graham says, the starter has to match the ring gear on the clutch, so it depends most on which clutch setup you use - Verto or Pre-Verto.

 

You need to use the correct coil with the factory fitted Lucas electronic dizzies, it might be a 65dm4, or there's a slim chance it could be 59. 65's have screws on the dizzy cap. Wiring is simple, but they do have a specific connector.

 

All of this has been covered many times, so have a search and come back if you need anything explaining 

[GraemeC]

I see where you guys are going, and I agree.

 

However - Doug your post is now very misleading.  If the only deviation from my instructions is make a jumper at the starter then he'll have the starter always running, irrespective of switch position as both it and its solenoid are not connected to the battery +ve!

 

I presume you meant to leave everything as is but put the jumper wire in place at the starter.  

Or as Ethel's suggestion goes towards, run a wire from the 'vacated' post on the wing mounted solenoid to the "start" spade on the starter mounted solenoid.

[dklawson]

 

Do not move the white/red wire from the old wing mounted remote solenoid.  Instead (on your new pre-engaged starter) make a short jumper wire that goes between its "start" spade terminal and the threaded post where you attach the big cable from the remote solenoid.

 

 

However - Doug your post is now very misleading.  If the only deviation from my instructions is make a jumper at the starter then he'll have the starter always running, irrespective of switch position as both it and its solenoid are not connected to the battery +ve!

 

I presume you meant to leave everything as is but put the jumper wire in place at the starter.  

 

Sorry if my post was misleading.  What I was saying was....

On your pre-engaged starter run a jumper wire from the large spade (actuate) terminal to the threaded post on the same solenoid.

Leave your remote solenoid where and as is.  Take its large starter motor cable and connect it to the threaded post on the pre-engaged starter.

 

This does not leave the starter permanently powered up.  The pre-engaged solenoid only receives power when the remote solenoid is powered on.

 

The first picture below is an aftermarket starter.  In the picture you can see the jumper wire I am talking about.  On the Mini these two connections would be on the piggy-back solenoid for the pre-engaged starter.  The large cable from the remote solenoid would connect to the threaded post on the pre-engaged solenoid.  The second picture is a schematic for a Ford application.  Pay no attention to the terminal designations, do note the big cable connections and the small wire going down would be equivalent to the Mini white/red wire and comes from the ignition switch.  The component with "I" and "S" on it would be equivalent to the remote solenoid.

 

Edited by dklawson, 17 December 2015 - 03:48 PM.

[GraemeC]

Thanks Doug - I knew what you meant, but it could be read either way.