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Neg Camber


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#1 minimissions

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Posted 23 December 2015 - 06:37 AM

Hi all just wondering if anyone on here could help.

 

This year I have fitted some fixed 1.5 neg camber arms to my mini and some adjustable heavy duty tie bars was hoping for a nice neg camber look but to be honest it does look any different that when I started, It has all been fitted up now for around 5 months but looks standard still....

 

Any ideas do I need anything else or any adjustment in tie bars?

 

Cheers



#2 Spider

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Posted 23 December 2015 - 07:43 AM

The stock Camber is quoted by the factory at + 20 ( +/- 10 )So, if your Mini was bang on spec, fitting 1.5 Neg Camber Lower Arms will bring it back to 0.5 Positive.

 

<Edit: The fixed neg 1.50 Arms don't set the Camber to -1.50, they only reduce the camber by 1.50. >


Edited by Moke Spider, 23 December 2015 - 07:46 AM.


#3 Mini 360

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Posted 23 December 2015 - 08:09 AM

Its far better to get adjustable arms so you can tweak it to desired camber.  The lower you go, the more camber you get.



#4 Swift_General

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Posted 23 December 2015 - 08:10 AM

To have so much negative camber that it is obvious when you look at the wheels would be more than desirable really. Adjustable tie rods are there to adjust castor not camber (although they will change the camber as well to a very small degree).

#5 minimissions

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Posted 23 December 2015 - 09:32 AM

Ok wow thanks guys for the replies. I knew the tie bars are for caster and wouldn't make to much difference to the look so to get the look I want I need to go with some adjustable bottom arms and have a play then? Which ones would people suggest?

 

Cheers :)



#6 Spider

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Posted 23 December 2015 - 10:00 AM

These;-  http://www.minispare...r-classic-mini/

 

but ditch the bling bushes and get some of these;-  https://www.minispar...px|Back to shop



#7 nicklouse

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Posted 23 December 2015 - 11:11 AM

And as suggested they only change what you have. And what it does does depend on what you have to start with. And that can only be determined by having the setting read.

Changing any part on the suspension requires a set up on the 4 wheel alignment rig.

#8 Vipernoir

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Posted 23 December 2015 - 09:58 PM

Having spent several hours under my car on an alignment rig yesterday, watching on the computer screen how the camber, castor and toe changed as any one of the three variables was adjusted, I strongly suggest you get your car set up properly with 3° of castor and 14' of toe out if you haven't already done so.

 

You may be surprised by how the camber changes...



#9 russo

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Posted 24 December 2015 - 01:59 AM

I fitted a set of these. http://www.minisport...nsion-arms.html Very happy.

#10 GraemeC

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Posted 24 December 2015 - 08:29 AM

I run these on all my cars and think they're great:
http://www.minispare...|Back to search
They're not as bulky or heavy as other 'on car' adjustable arms and adjustment is easy. Don't know why they don't come with bushes though.

#11 DomCr250

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Posted 24 December 2015 - 09:48 AM

Having spent several hours under my car on an alignment rig yesterday, watching on the computer screen how the camber, castor and toe changed as any one of the three variables was adjusted, I strongly suggest you get your car set up properly with 3° of castor and 14' of toe out if you haven't already done so.

 

You may be surprised by how the camber changes...

Great advice ...I had mine set-up a few years ago and it made so much difference .. worth every penny.  Try and get a mini friendly place to do it if you can.



#12 Blatherskite

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Posted 24 December 2015 - 10:25 AM

Its far better to get adjustable arms so you can tweak it to desired camber.  The lower you go, the more camber you get.


And can set both sides up with equal camber, bearing in mind the notorious dimensional variability of a Mini. Coupled with hi-los, you can tweak til you reach perfection.

#13 tiger99

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Posted 24 December 2015 - 02:07 PM

And having done that, the final thing is to carefully adjust your HiLos very slightly to equalise the corner weights. It is rarely discussed here, but because of the rising rate suspension, the Mini is susceptible to poor corner weight distribution due to very small differences in ride height. There has to be some significant gain in roadholding by getting it exactly right. You would need the weighing equipment and a very flat surface, or get it done professionally. It should be quick and simple.

 

It doesn't matter on many American cars, and a certain recent BMW convertible, where lack of adequate torsional stiffness in the vehicle structure will allow the corner weights to more or less self-balance, but a Mini shell is torsionally quite stiff, in relation to its mass, which of course is a very good thing.



#14 Vipernoir

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 08:47 AM

And having done that, the final thing is to carefully adjust your HiLos very slightly to equalise the corner weights. It is rarely discussed here, but because of the rising rate suspension, the Mini is susceptible to poor corner weight distribution due to very small differences in ride height. There has to be some significant gain in roadholding by getting it exactly right. You would need the weighing equipment and a very flat surface, or get it done professionally. It should be quick and simple.

 

It doesn't matter on many American cars, and a certain recent BMW convertible, where lack of adequate torsional stiffness in the vehicle structure will allow the corner weights to more or less self-balance, but a Mini shell is torsionally quite stiff, in relation to its mass, which of course is a very good thing.

 

the FIRST thing to do is set up your corner weights !
Adjusting the rideheight affects the geometry, so if you do it at the end you've wasted your time setting it up...



#15 OzOAP

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 03:10 PM

Set ride heights yes.

Corner weighting a road car is a waste of time.

What happens when ya fat bird gets in the passenger side?

Fill up with petrol? Thats over 25Kg over passenger rear wheel. 






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