10 replies to this topic

[ProjectDmini]

Hey there again it's me.
So last night I pulled into my neighborhood and my car has been running fine. As I was driving through my neighborhood a car was pulling out so I stopped. After the car was done backing up I put my car back into gear and went forward but my car didn't go. It all of a sudden died and it was like I blew a head gasket all over again. My car still turns over perfectly fine but it won't hold and idle anymore, it won't/can't rev over 1k and it sounds like a dying lawn mower. Can somebody help me please! I'd love some feedback and let you guys know what's going on.

[tiger99]

If it is not consuming lots of oil and belching thick smoke out of the exhaust we can hopefully rule out catastrophic mechanical failure, which leaves us with the fuel and ignition systems, valve timing (but why would it change?) and possibly head gasket.

 

First thing, is it firing on all 4 cylinders? run it as best you can, and with a very well insulated tool remove one plug lead at a time. If that cylinder is firing, the revs will drop. If not, something is preventing that cylinder from firing.

 

That takes a few minutes only. Next check is to take out the spark plugs and examine the business end. Are they all fairly clean, with light brown insulator? Or have some got lots of oil, carbon or fuel contamination?

 

I don't know what sort of engine you have, whether Kettering (points and coil) or Electronic ignition, and whether it has carburettor(s) or fuel injection, so I can't say more right now. But do these basic checks and report back. I am going to bed, but probably someone will be along with more advice once you know that cylinders are firing and plugs are ok.

 

Possibilities may include wiring fault causing loss of ignition power, points/distributor cap/rotor arm/condenser/coil/ignition module failing, fuel starvation (tank vent blocked or failing fuel pump), ignition timing wrong because distributor is loose, stuck carburettor piston, air leak in manifold or breather system, timing chain jumped a tooth (rare, it needs to be well worn), dirt in fuel, etc. Stuck choke or other cold start device, probably stuck in starting position. Oh, and an old favourite of mine, which is rare but can happen rather quickly in some circumstances, worn distributor bearings, allowing shaft to thrash about so timing is somewhat random, and points sometimes neverf open at all. Visible evidence is powdered brass inside distributor. But it may be none of these.

[Spider]

Fuel Pump on the way out?

[malynch27]

I would start checking everything like Tiger99 has suggested. Sounds like you know what a blown head gasket feels like when it goes so I would put that near the top of my checklist.

[carbon]

Has this engine blown a head gasket recently?

[KernowCooper]

Has this engine blown a head gasket recently?

And if it has was it re-torqued after a heat cycle

[tiger99]

If it blew between cylinders it would really kill the performance without breaking into the waterways and causing visible symptoms. A compression test would be a good idea.

 

If the gasket has indeed failed twice, the head, and possibly but rarely the block, need skimming. And, as said above, the torquing process, and retorquing after it has been run, are very important, but simple. The only nuisance with the A series is that after retorquing the head you need to adjust the valve clearances.

[ProjectDmini]

I have a 998cc with a HS4 carb
I did blow a head gasket a little over a year ago and I didn't damage anything luckily. Replaced the gasket and I did re torque everything down. The same with my mechanic when I took it too him for a check to see if I had done everything correctly.
I have a little update on the car! Today I got in the car and after letting it sit I thought I'd turn it on and now it actually passes 1k and I can rev the car but it still sounds like ****. I can "move" in first (very slowly) but I haven't checked much yet on the car. Haven't had too much time but will keep everyone updated

[ProjectDmini]

If it is not consuming lots of oil and belching thick smoke out of the exhaust we can hopefully rule out catastrophic mechanical failure, which leaves us with the fuel and ignition systems, valve timing (but why would it change?) and possibly head gasket.
 
First thing, is it firing on all 4 cylinders? run it as best you can, and with a very well insulated tool remove one plug lead at a time. If that cylinder is firing, the revs will drop. If not, something is preventing that cylinder from firing.
 
That takes a few minutes only. Next check is to take out the spark plugs and examine the business end. Are they all fairly clean, with light brown insulator? Or have some got lots of oil, carbon or fuel contamination?
 
I don't know what sort of engine you have, whether Kettering (points and coil) or Electronic ignition, and whether it has carburettor(s) or fuel injection, so I can't say more right now. But do these basic checks and report back. I am going to bed, but probably someone will be along with more advice once you know that cylinders are firing and plugs are ok.
 
Possibilities may include wiring fault causing loss of ignition power, points/distributor cap/rotor arm/condenser/coil/ignition module failing, fuel starvation (tank vent blocked or failing fuel pump), ignition timing wrong because distributor is loose, stuck carburettor piston, air leak in manifold or breather system, timing chain jumped a tooth (rare, it needs to be well worn), dirt in fuel, etc. Stuck choke or other cold start device, probably stuck in starting position. Oh, and an old favourite of mine, which is rare but can happen rather quickly in some circumstances, worn distributor bearings, allowing shaft to thrash about so timing is somewhat random, and points sometimes neverf open at all. Visible evidence is powdered brass inside distributor. But it may be none of these.

It's quite funny that you said that rare instance because I was already that rare instance about a month ago! I wore down the connecting pins inside my distributor so I know it's all good and new

[tiger99]

When it happened to me it was on an Avenger with the same basic design of Lucas distributor as the Mini. On the way home from Heathrow one night I needed to adjust the points about 10 times to keep it going.

Only next morning in daylight did I spot the brass swarf and see how much the shaft was flapping about. A distributor was about £50 from Grimes of Coulsdon. I see that a 25D is nearly £150 now.

[mikal]

Try replacing the condenser. Mine died without warning with similar symptoms....