14 replies to this topic

[Earwax]

Hi

 

Have been told a remote extension housing rubber round mount was made with metal on both sides - a competition version if you like.  Have looked at the usual sites and have not been able to locate? do they exist.  Note to self and others:  don't mount with tension on it , the rubber will separate from bond very quickly.  .... the idea of extra stability from an extra engine steady is good, the execution in my instance poor... cheers

[Spider]

I think the type you are describing is the only type I've ever seen - both OEM and aftermarket.

[GraemeC]

Didn't the competition one have a through bolt, similar to the comp exhaust mounts?

[Earwax]

part 21a 956   http://www.minispare...|Back to search  courtesy mini spares.

 

this is the only style i have seen too Spider??? but others do tell me another version did exist?

 

graeme C, that would make sense , but would need to be raised/recessed to fit flush... again i am not sure of facts here  Cheers

[nicklouse]

Never seen any either but never really thought about using one and when the engine has got solid/updated steady bushes fitted it does not have much to do..

Also not sure how much load I would really want to put into it.

[Spider]

OK, I've just had a look and Special Tuning did do a Kit, I'm not sure what it contained, but it did have an 'Improved Rubber Mount, Strengthened Mounting Brackets and Support Strap."  P/N C-AJJ3366

 

Brian does them, if you scroll down a little on this page

 

http://www.bryanpurv...-two/4582143187

 

Seems he needs your old mounting bracket to modify.

[Spider]

Also not sure how much load I would really want to put into it.

 

And this raises a very good point.

 

I've seen a few Remote Boxes busted at the diff cap because they are too solidly fixed from the remote. I think I'd rather bust the mount.

[Cooperman]

I think it was known as the 'Mitchell Mount' after the guy who designed it.

[nicklouse]

Also not sure how much load I would really want to put into it.

 
And this raises a very good point.
 
I've seen a few Remote Boxes busted at the diff cap because they are too solidly fixed from the remote. I think I'd rather bust the mount.

Also as the lever is longer a "softer rubber" that the engine steadies will do the "same". I would say that if you are looking at stuffing the rear mount you should be looking at the current mounts and sorting them or adding some.

[Earwax]

Good detective work Spider  many thanks,,, so it isn't a figment of my imagination and thanks cooperman for the name

Nicklouse - i don't want to bust either end, and agree would rather bust the cheap replaceable part...

 

I Had  the engine moving forward and back during a race..... don't know if the remote housing went and caused the engine steady to then snap or the other way round.. On replacement i inadvertently put new one in under tension ( the new engine steady ), and it lasted a couple of warm up laps....   So now it has been 'rectified at both ends it could be fine for quite some time,   it is just a pain losing track time and i was lucky once in being able to get a left hand drill into a snapped off engine steady bolt in situ( the clutch end of the head) but for a while it looked like an engine out job to get to it.

 

i f it was readily available i was going to add to a spares kit along with the standard one..

 

In the picture that matches the part in Spider's link,  can someone describe how it works,, under the other, around the other, instead of the other,,,,, i am not sure

 

the wording of the Special tuning one was more what i was watching for,  like the competition exhaust ones Anyway thanks very much gents

[62S]

This was really designed for the Cooper S before BMC introduced the thick washers that sit atop the cross member flange. Earlier cars had cut outs in the flange to locate the bolts.

The straps go over the top of the existing tunnel.

The bracket has an extra piece to fill the area between the two front mounting points.

[nicklouse]

Earwax. Reading above you don't mention any other stabilisers. Are restricted by regs or?

There are 3 other gen. Ones that could be fitted, well 2 of three as two of them don't really work together.

Then there is fitting one other top mount to the rad side. I would suggest the DSN one as I'd does not need to have the stat. Housing removed to take the head off and the load into the stat. housing studs is as low as it can be.

[Ivor Badger]

Also not sure how much load I would really want to put into it.

 
And this raises a very good point.
 
I've seen a few Remote Boxes busted at the diff cap because they are too solidly fixed from the remote. I think I'd rather bust the mount.

The one I saw that broke all the time had a misaligned shell. It was a rolled reroofed shell for rallycross and it was a total nightmare to get the remote on, quickly followed by rapid failure. So we fitted the engine in with the remote attached and then cut the top steady in 2. Worked out what length it needed to be to fit and welded it back together = no more breakage. Strangely enough the person who owned the car rolled his rally car and it was reroofed, the shortened top steady fitted exactly on that one as well.

The point of the comp mount is that it is exactly as described, for competition. Don't fit one to a road car.

[Earwax]

Ivor and Nick

 

it is a race car only not for road use. 

 

It had an adjustable steady from firewall under Master cylinder to head -   this was the one that snapped the bolt in the head.  

I have now refitted a similar adjustable one but with bushes at both ends ( the first had a rose joint at one end) after loosening off entirely and not putting tension on the back remote mount, and i have added the left lower engine steady, After two races is it is still all together, and feels solid at the base (sump) and with a little flex with force at the top so i am happy with it... I prefer not to add/re-add the radiator steady if possible- i would probably need to relocate my filler tank to do it, but will keep the dsn kit in mind 

[nicklouse]

I would still run two lower mounts. I have the the two rearward ones. (Not a fan of the forward facing one). These don't really do that much to reduce rocking. As they are close to the pivot point (rubber engine mounts) but they do help lkeep the engine located).

I then used to run a full rose jointed one clutch side and a half and half on the stat. Now changed to the DSN Retrosport half and half steadies. Needed a new MPi stat housing anyway. And it is a much neater set up.

Upper stabiliser bars are the most effective and I would not run with just one unless regs said so.

Got a picture of your filler to show your issue?

Not easy to see as my love of black but here is mine.