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Carb Conversion From Injection....


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#1 minifreek1

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 09:06 PM

What would it take to convert from injection to carb on a 1994 1.3i Mayfair...?

 

All I can think of is...

 

Inlet manifold (MG Metro...?)

Exhaust manifold (MG Metro....?)

Carburettor (MG Metro....?)

Dizzy (Metro electronic instead of points)

 

Anything else... is it as simple as swapping the above and fire up and drive away....?

 

I understan the ECU would be removed etc... and probably change wiring loom for non injection loom...?



#2 Cooperman

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 09:27 PM

You don't need to change the wiring loom. All the basic wiring remains the same. The differences come with the ECU connections which are no longer required. You'll need to fit new wiring for the distributor and that's about all (I'm sure I've forgotten something, but it won't be very important).

I did an SPI to twin HS4 conversion a couple of years back and it was very simple.



#3 MIGLIACARS

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 09:48 PM

what about fuel pump doesnt the injection pump flow to much psi for the carb!!!!



#4 FlyingScot

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 10:04 PM

what about fuel pump doesnt the injection pump flow to much psi for the carb!!!!

Yup way too much, you need a regulator.
Have look here http://www.minimania..._to_Carburetors
What about the MOT though.......

FS

#5 minifreek1

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 10:26 PM

So is it worth doing then....?

 

I only ask as I have a fault on mine, Im not used to playing with mini's that have an injection manifold and more used to carbs... I much prefer carbs... on mini's...

 

 

I know that the injection system is there for the emmisions etc... but when you find a friendly garage they tend to be OK with conversions and are sympathetic to the cause... ;)



#6 FlyingScot

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 10:53 PM

You're asking the wrong person :D I'm the TMF Mini Doc for injection cars.... Carbs.. Pah!



FS

#7 mab01uk

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 07:01 AM

Some more info here:-

http://www.theminifo...erting-to-carb/



#8 spennyy2k

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 07:28 AM

when i did mine it was reccomended that i didnt use a reg, i went back to a std tank with facet pump



#9 MIGLIACARS

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 12:22 PM

id try and stick with the spi 

 

a carb on it looks scuffy with all the extra wires about and will devalue it 



#10 minifreek1

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 05:34 PM

You're asking the wrong person :D I'm the TMF Mini Doc for injection cars.... Carbs.. Pah!



FS

OK tell me this....

 

Mine seems to bog down at around 3500 RPM and stays like that until going through to 4500 RPM... it seems to struggle in that rev range...

 

Also

 

I had a look around the engine bay a couple of weeks ago and found a vac pipe that wasn't attached to anything...

I found (with help on here) that it goes to the MAP sensor black plastic box thingy...

It would tickover no problem but didnt want to rev with this attached...

When disconnected it revs fine until around 4000 RPM and doesn't seem to want to go past that without a struggle...

 

It passed its MoT without much problems except for 2 advisories which will be addressed for the next time... (usual rust and oil leak)

 

My theory is that something is faulty within the ECUI/Injector system hence why I want to go to carbs....



#11 monkey

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 09:02 PM

I think the usual advice on this is check the vac pipes and then check them again, then even when they look fine, replace them because they are the issue...

Please note I have ZERO ezperience with injection minis, this is just from what I have read in the injection section on here lol

#12 cal844

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 09:46 PM

You can leave the ECU wiring in place just tape it back to the loom. All you need is
carb(s)
Inlet and exhaust manifold
and a fuel pump with approx 3.5psi pressure

#13 Cooperman

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 09:53 PM

When I did this I fitted twin HS4 carbs, a fully gas-flowed head with 35.6/29.5 valves and 10.2:1 c.r., a 266 cam, LCB, Maniflow twin box centre-exit exhaust, lightened pre-Verto flywheel, Aldon 'yellow dizzy and a FACIT fuel pump with a pressure regulator.

it drives very well and, for an old classic car, is quite brisk on the road.



#14 jamesy

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 09:59 PM

 

You're asking the wrong person :D I'm the TMF Mini Doc for injection cars.... Carbs.. Pah!



FS

OK tell me this....

 

Mine seems to bog down at around 3500 RPM and stays like that until going through to 4500 RPM... it seems to struggle in that rev range...

 

Also

 

I had a look around the engine bay a couple of weeks ago and found a vac pipe that wasn't attached to anything...

I found (with help on here) that it goes to the MAP sensor black plastic box thingy...

It would tickover no problem but didnt want to rev with this attached...

When disconnected it revs fine until around 4000 RPM and doesn't seem to want to go past that without a struggle...

 

It passed its MoT without much problems except for 2 advisories which will be addressed for the next time... (usual rust and oil leak)

 

My theory is that something is faulty within the ECUI/Injector system hence why I want to go to carbs....

 

 

when you speak about the vac pipe thats connected to the black box, where is it going to and from? the little tiny black vac pipes should go, ECU - little black box (fuel trap) - inlet manifold. i think.



#15 minifreek1

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 10:23 PM

Thats the problem...

 

If I connect from rear of inlet - little black box - ECU it dont like it...

 

If I connect from inlet direct to ECU - effectively bypassing the box - it dont like it...

 

If I disconnect the vac pipe from ECU or inlet - it runs fine upto around 4000RPM....

 

 

 

 

Maybe if I attampt a TB reset it might cure it - maybe... as thats the only thing I havent tried yet.... all vac pipes and any elbows have been replaced with new...






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