11 replies to this topic

[Timcg]

I replaced the head gasket back in April 2014 because it had blown between cylinders 2 and 3. It's just happened again, in the same place. I followed the advice in Haynes and in various threads on here to the letter so I'm pretty happy I didn't do anything wrong.

 

I also drive the car every day, so if I had done something really stupid, surely it would have failed ages ago??

 

So my question is - what could have caused it? Did I just buy a poor quality gasket? (it was a copper one in a kit with all the other gaskets you need during the job for around the £20 mark)

 

It's a 1275 engine with HIF44 carb, electronic ignition, cone air filter, nothing silly. Any ideas greatly appreciated before I put it all back together this weekend.

 

The ONE thing I have done on the car very recently is fit one of those "ultimate engine steadies" attached to the thermostat housing. I'm hoping that's a coincidence because I'd be seriously p***ed if that somehow caused the engine to pull itself in half.

 

Tim

[sonikk4]

You need a Payen BK450 Head gasket. So providing your head face is true and the block face then this should cure your issue.

[Timcg]

Probably should have said, I just bought this... http://www.minispare.../AJM1141MS.aspx

[sonikk4]

I had the copper replacement hg kit from Minispares and it leaked even after retorquing etc. Had a word with Simon@minispares and ended up with a Payen hg and no more issues.

[Timcg]

Cool, thanks

[mk1leg]

56 sec in use this trick

[mk3 Cooper S]

Did you skim the head?

 

Did you retorque after 1000 miles or so?

[gazza82]

You don't need to .. BK450 handles turbo pressure ...

[Timcg]

I didn't get it reskimmed last time, just a good clean (plenty of posts on here saying there's no need because it's so unlikely to warp). I think I will this time though if I can find somewhere local that can get it done soon - not looking forward to having to get the bus to work lol!

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

You don't need to .. BK450 handles turbo pressure ...

Its good practice to retorque after a couple of hundred miles. Yes the 450 is a turbo gasket but the issue would be the expansion and contraction of the head studs, thats why you retorque the head nuts, the gasket will be slightly compressed and you need to clamp it down some more. Even ARP comp studs will need retorqing.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Probably should have said, I just bought this... http://www.minispare.../AJM1141MS.aspx

Copper gaskets don't last. They are best for holding pressure for a short time ie race engines that get stripped regularly.

[Cooperman]

BK450 every time. And make sure there is no grease or oil on either mating face. Re-torque by undoing each head nut 1/2 a turn and torqueing up in turn in the correct order after about 3 full heat cycles or 200 miles, whichever comes first.

Check for surface erosion on both surfaces. A head will not normally warp (I've never seen a warped A-series head) but surface damage or erosion can mean a skim is needed. The block face can also become eroded and if this is the case there is a problem as the block needs re-facing and that means a full engine strip. I did have a Mini Auto with this problem and the owner couldn't afford to take the engine out and remover the auto box. I refused to remove the auto box as I don't want to be responsible for auto boxes!. So I removed the head studs and cleaned back the erosion with emory as best I could. Then I fitted all new studs and nuts and slightly over-torqued it. 3 years later it was still running OK, but it was not ideal.

erosion is caused by a head gasket starting to fail and letting coolant seep between the gasket and the head or block and laying there causing local rusting. It happens when some water is being lost, but the owner just keeps topping it up instead of investigating the problem.