12 replies to this topic

[jc_kasabian]

Building a 1330 fast road engine and going to be needing a clutch kit soon, whats peoples opinion on whats best to use? do i just need to replace the clutch plate or get a full clutch kit? aiming for roughly 100 bhp.

 

thinking the kent 276 cam or a swift tune SW5

 

thanks in advance.

[Cooperman]

First of all it is almost impossible to get 100 bhp with a 276 cam. A 100 bhp engine will be very 'cammy' and not nice for a 'not quite so slow' road engine. Anyway, what you need for a road engine is better torque from about 3000 rpm to 5000 rpm - the rev range where you normally drive on public roads. A 100 bhp engine will give that power at over 6000 rpm and you don't want to be driving around at over 6000 rpm.

 

For the clutch, if you are running a 100 bhp engine you will need a close ratio gearbox to keep it 'on the cam' as you'll need a 286 or better and that will need to be combined with a lower ratio final drive. For that a pre-verto flywheel with a 'Grey' clutch would work well. However, for the road with, say, an SW5 or 276 cam you could run a standard gearbox with a 3.44:1 FDR, or even a 3.2:1 and combine this with a pre-verto clutch running on a lightened flywheel with a standard Cooper 'S' diaphragm and plate. Expect around 85 to 90 bhp, but with excellent torque from 3000 rpm, if you choose a 276 or SW5. Max power will then be at around 6000 rpm. That will be a nice engine for road use. This assumes the optimum induction and exhaust systems, a better distributor advance curve and all accurately built with a correctly timed-in cam.

[Anthony30]

It's good practice to buy a full kit. If it was standard I would recommend LUK. They seem to make good quality clutch kits. I don't know if you would need an upgraded clutch to handle 100BHP, or not.  I would go with either a Kent 266, or 276. A 276 might be a dog to drive though.

[Cooperman]

I did build a very nice 1330 engine for an Endurance Rally Car. I fitted an MG Metro cam (the regulations demanded a standard engine) with 35.6/29.5 mm valves. I fitted a pre-verto lightened clutch with 'S' diaphragm and plate. It had an Aldon 'Yellow' distributor, I cleaned up the inlet manifold and did some minor work on the heads, fitted the best exhaust system a Maniflow 1.75" twin box single centre-exit pipe, timed the cam in very accurately, gas-flowed the HIF44 carb, built it very carefully and it gave 84 bhp at the flywheel at 5700 rpm. The compression ratio I set to 10.2:1. On the road it was nice to drive and had excellent torque right through the range. Of course, it was not fast, but it wasn't quite as slow although compared to modern cars it was slower overall. But then, it is a 57 year-old design after all, so that is to be expected.

[mk1leg]

pre verto clutch as that's what the pro's use

[carbon]

If it's for fast road use would suggest Borg & Beck blue cover plate with standard clutch plate. If you're planning lots of full bore standing starts then probably best go for AP rally plate.

 

You could go for orange cover plate, but bear in mind this gives the crank thrust washers a harder time - and if they fail and chew up the crank things get messy.

[jc_kasabian]

First of all it is almost impossible to get 100 bhp with a 276 cam. A 100 bhp engine will be very 'cammy' and not nice for a 'not quite so slow' road engine. Anyway, what you need for a road engine is better torque from about 3000 rpm to 5000 rpm - the rev range where you normally drive on public roads. A 100 bhp engine will give that power at over 6000 rpm and you don't want to be driving around at over 6000 rpm.

 

For the clutch, if you are running a 100 bhp engine you will need a close ratio gearbox to keep it 'on the cam' as you'll need a 286 or better and that will need to be combined with a lower ratio final drive. For that a pre-verto flywheel with a 'Grey' clutch would work well. However, for the road with, say, an SW5 or 276 cam you could run a standard gearbox with a 3.44:1 FDR, or even a 3.2:1 and combine this with a pre-verto clutch running on a lightened flywheel with a standard Cooper 'S' diaphragm and plate. Expect around 85 to 90 bhp, but with excellent torque from 3000 rpm, if you choose a 276 or SW5. Max power will then be at around 6000 rpm. That will be a nice engine for road use. This assumes the optimum induction and exhaust systems, a better distributor advance curve and all accurately built with a correctly timed-in cam.

 

So what parts will i need to order to achieve this? i have the lightened cam followers and have access to a kent 276 cam, what else will i need? is the vernier timing gear the best option? this is my first engine build just going from the haynes manual and seeing what options their are. appreciate all the advice helping me with the build.

[Spider]

If pre-verto, a standard Cooper S (Blue Dot) clutch kit.

 

I agree with Cooperman, I doubt you'll get 100 HP from that set up, but will be more street drivable than an engine that does have 100HPs.

[Cooperman]

First of all it is almost impossible to get 100 bhp with a 276 cam. A 100 bhp engine will be very 'cammy' and not nice for a 'not quite so slow' road engine. Anyway, what you need for a road engine is better torque from about 3000 rpm to 5000 rpm - the rev range where you normally drive on public roads. A 100 bhp engine will give that power at over 6000 rpm and you don't want to be driving around at over 6000 rpm.
 
For the clutch, if you are running a 100 bhp engine you will need a close ratio gearbox to keep it 'on the cam' as you'll need a 286 or better and that will need to be combined with a lower ratio final drive. For that a pre-verto flywheel with a 'Grey' clutch would work well. However, for the road with, say, an SW5 or 276 cam you could run a standard gearbox with a 3.44:1 FDR, or even a 3.2:1 and combine this with a pre-verto clutch running on a lightened flywheel with a standard Cooper 'S' diaphragm and plate. Expect around 85 to 90 bhp, but with excellent torque from 3000 rpm, if you choose a 276 or SW5. Max power will then be at around 6000 rpm. That will be a nice engine for road use. This assumes the optimum induction and exhaust systems, a better distributor advance curve and all accurately built with a correctly timed-in cam.

 
So what parts will i need to order to achieve this? i have the lightened cam followers and have access to a kent 276 cam, what else will i need? is the vernier timing gear the best option? this is my first engine build just going from the haynes manual and seeing what options their are. appreciate all the advice helping me with the build.

[Cooperman]

You will need a well gas-flowed cylinder head with around 10.2:1 C.R. Tof get the c.r. correct you will need to do a trial build then measure, calculate, measure and machine.
Light cam followers make little if any difference.
Induction and the ex. Systems must be the best and at least an Hif44 carb on a flowed inlet manifold. There is a lot more to building an engine than bolting some nice parts together. There is a lot of measuring and accurate machining.
Write out the full specification before going too far.
I will say again a 100 bap engine will not be nice on a road Mini. Aim for good mid-range torque with correct gearing for the engine.

[Dusky]

As above., a 276 cam wont give you what you want unless you bolt a turbo to it. Why do you want 100 bhp in the first place? Pub points?
Before touching any engine I d start by reading Tuning the a series by David Vizard. Then decide if you want to continue or not. High tuned engines are not fun on the road, unless you like worrying at every traffic light..

[Fast Ivan]

If you want to break the 100 line and still be perfectly drivable with, more importantly, bags of torque, then consider the bmw k100 head conversion

Edited by Fast Ivan, 07 February 2016 - 09:20 AM.

[Gr4h4m]

Or forced induction.