
Hydrolastic Help
#1
Posted 14 February 2016 - 04:14 PM
#2
Posted 14 February 2016 - 04:41 PM
Fewer garages have them these days. But they do come up on eBay.
Just a word of warning, running with reduced fluid to reduce the ride height will give you appaling ride and handling
#3
Posted 14 February 2016 - 04:47 PM
#4
Posted 14 February 2016 - 04:49 PM
As pdaykin says you need high pressure fluid pump, these are available but your best bet is to find local garage which can do this for you (a garage which specialises in MGs may also be able to help, the MGF uses hydrolastic).
Pressure should be about 260 (early models) to 280 psi (later models). When pressure low the back tends to droop.
If you really want to lower a hydrolastic car you could machine the displacer struts. But if you want good handling the generally recommended approach is to keep displacers standard and add shock absorbers to the front and also fit competition bump stops all round.
#5
Posted 14 February 2016 - 04:55 PM
#6
Posted 14 February 2016 - 04:59 PM
What pressure are you taking it up to, and is it too high at front, back, or both?
If you hydro units are holding pressure OK then I would not change to dry.
#7
Posted 14 February 2016 - 05:03 PM
Yes I know it is appaling.. I have researched into converting to dry using my subframes is It really possible with ease or is it a nightmare I would like to stay with hydro but I do want a lower ride
speak to minimachine they may help
#8
Posted 14 February 2016 - 05:05 PM
#9
Posted 14 February 2016 - 05:08 PM
What parts would be required bearing in mind I would like to be able to adjust it
#10
Posted 14 February 2016 - 08:02 PM
To do wet-dry conversion properly you need:
- dry front subframe (old type, with 4 bolt fixing to bulkhead)
- 2 x dry front top arms
- 2 x dry rear radius arms
- 4 x donuts
- front trumpets & rear trumpets (or Hi-Los if you go adjustable)
- 2 rear shockers to replace rear helper springs (you can probably reuse your front shockers)
Fairly straightforward, but not trivial.
#11
Posted 14 February 2016 - 09:21 PM
Thanks for the info only catch is i really dont want to replace sub-frame! ive been reading about knocking back or grinding away 3 x tabs! can it be done with engine etc in the car if i reuse the wet subby
#12
Posted 14 February 2016 - 09:26 PM
Is there much difference between wet and dry radius arms?
#13
Posted 15 February 2016 - 07:01 AM
I made my first Hydro Pump using a Clutch Master Cylinder, slow and had to fill the reservoir often, but that served me well for many years.
Is there much difference between wet and dry radius arms?
Yes, they are quite different, but in detailed ways. Using a Wet Arm for Dry will be a much harder ride.
#14
Posted 15 February 2016 - 07:08 AM
Keep the Hydrolastic it is a unique part of Mini history, becoming rare and should be preserved for as long as possible before they are all gone.........ride is great as well, far superior to dry, they only stopped it because it was more expensive. Most of the winning BMC Works rally and race Mini's were on hydrolastic too.
How To Lower Hydrolastic Suspension ?
http://www.theminifo...tic-suspension/
Building your own hydrolastic suspension pump & service tools:
(click on 'Technical Advice', then 'Suspension, Brakes & Steering' then scroll down)
http://www.austinamericausa.com/
Edited by mab01uk, 15 February 2016 - 07:09 AM.
#15
Posted 15 February 2016 - 07:49 AM
Good advice maybe time to reconsider i do agree they are becoming rare so it does seem silly to strip it all off time to make a pump!
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