14 replies to this topic

[Minicull]

Hi I am having problems with my 1995 Mini sprite.

 

The car stood unused for five years because the battery was draining.  I the bought the car and removed some dodgy electrics put in for a volt meter, cassette player and boot light, this removed the battery drain problem.

 

I then looked at starting the engine, no spark, traced it to the coil.  I swapped the coil for a new one and the car started.  Next time I came to start and no luck!  I noticed no noise from the fuel pump, I checked there was a supply to the pump and there was. Tested the pump which was open circuit and faulty.  I replaced the fuel pump.  The car now starts and runs. It seemed to have a problem with water temp, or lack of. I cleaned out the water ways, thermostat housing was blocked and not circulating water, checked the whole system, inlet manifold was clear, in car heater element was blocked and leaking. Changed the element and flushed the system. The car then warms up. 

 

I took the car for an MOT and it would not start at the Garage on a cold frosty morning.  Drove the car home when it was warmer and had no water temp.  I removed the inlet manifold to discover the engine mount had broken and cut the manifold temp sensor wires against the bulkhead.  The PTC heater was blown and the wire taped out of the way, I assume this is why it would not start in the cold. I replaced the PTC heater, repaired the temp sensor wires and while the manifold was off I changed the water temp sensor.  I have also changed the air temp sensor in the air box and checked all vac pipes and elbows. Changed two elbows.

 

MOT time and it made it in this time!  Fail high emissions.  co over 5 percent fail. HC 317 fail. Lambda 1.07 fail.  Was recommended to change cat and lambda.  New Bosch Lambda fitted and Wood & Pickett cat.

 

MOT time fail Over 15 CO.  I then found a kink in the vac line to the ECU.  Still in the range of 5 percent CO.

 

Not sure what to do next as I cant seem to find anyone near Hastings with a code reader, Running out of time, patience and money!

 

Any thoughts?  Please help

[FlyingScot]

Start with the basics....
Replace all the vacuum lines and fuel trap with new (they are service parts). Push on the fittings gently making sure you don't push them on so far you block the flow at the elbows.
This is the major cause of problems on SPis and really until this is done I wouldn't go anywhere else unless you can find someone with a code reader.

Your a few years too late, I used to live in Battle and have numerous code readers and spare SPi components

FS

Moved to injection section

[Minicull]

Hi

 

Thanks for the reply, All vacuum parts on order.  I will keep you updated.  I hope it is this simple!

 

I see you didn't move far from Battle then!

 

Thanks

Richard

[FlyingScot]

Richard
Hopefully it is, use a bit of personal lubricant or similar (not oil based) when fitting the pipes especially to the fuel trap.
This makes it easier as they are a tight fit when new.

Yes I moved a few miles......although I came from Aberdeen before Battle (all for work)

Derek

[minidaves]

vac pipes, oil breather pipes, oil breather under servo gasket, servo air leak, oil filler cap or rocker cover gasket. are the norms

[Minicull]

Hi

I have changed all vacuum parts as surgested and have checked pipe to servo, not sure how to check if I have a servo leak. All the oil bits are also fine. I checked on my home CO meter and am getting around 6%.

I am wondering if by changing all the parts I have I may have solved the problem but need an error code clearing from the ECU of could it still be wiring, something in the throttle body or ECU?

My original MOT results were -0.1% CO idle pass and 5.41% CO, 317 HC, 0.87 Lambda. These differ from my original post as that was done from my poor memory. As I understand all these figures point to a rich mixture? What could be causing it that I have not checked?

I have found a local garage able to test so I might be booking some time there soon!

Any other ideas

Thanks
Richard

[Ado1379]

did you sort this in the end mate? ive just had a very similar issue and went the all the motions you did. it turned out to be my thermostat had seized and the engine never actually got up to temp effectively giving the constant choke symtpom. 

[Minicull]

Not sorted yet, going in for diagnostics check tomorrow, hope it shows up something.

[minimat]

Dont forget to check the basics ie valve clearances plugs etc (check colour)

[Minicull]

Just a quick update.  Car was in for diagnostics check yesterday.  The mechanic called to tell me the voltage in the ECU was fluctuating wildly. It was going between 16v and below 11v, the MAP sensor was also not behaving.  His thoughts were the ECU is at fault, he said he has had similar on a Rover 200 some years ago. The voltage from the battery was stable, he was going to check ECU earths and some other bits and then get the ECU off for testing.

 

I hope this is it!!!!

[Minicull]

The ECU tested OK. The ECU was re fitted and more tests carried out.  The fuel pressure was fine, lambder was swapped out to make sure it was not faulty.  Same results, the mechanic was still unsure on the ECU, I sourced a second hand ECU from ebay and had that fitted.  The fault still remains.  The CO level is constant at around 8 percent.  The diagnostics is showing the constant high reading from the Lambder, this is in line with the car running rich.  It seams the car is unable to lean the engine off.  Is it possible for an injector to fail in such a way to deliver too much fuel without just dripping?  Could this be an electrical fault? If so what could it be.  The mechanic is looking at it when he has ideas and free time to keep costs down.  It has him stumped at the moment, any other ideas?

 

Thanks

[spiguy]

The most common issue with SPI's is the vacuum lines - running rich would suggest a leak at the line from the inlet manifold to the ECU map sensor. The pipe runs from the rear of the inlet manifold, via a small fuel trap, down to the MAP sensor on the underside of the ECU. Any break, split or disconnect - even if the pipe is blocked off by being pushed too far on to the stubs or MAP sensor - can cause the MAP sensor to either not see the vacuum in the inlet at all, or at least not see it fully.

 

It can be dificult to see damage on these vacuum pipes / elbows, complete replacement is a fairly inexpensive and complete way to fix / verify this as the cause, however you can test them to a degree by removing them, covering one end and sucking at the other end. They should be able to hold vacuum without leaking.

[Minicull]

Thanks, all vac pipes and elbows have been changed for brand new ones, in my second post I think.  I am getting good vac to ECU elbow and it is not too far on. So that one is covered.

 

Thanks 

[Alpenflitzer]

Here a systematic pictures of the vac pipes. I use Silicon 3mm ID in order not to need elbows.

 

 

 

Check if the accelrator cable sits correct

 

 

 

Are you sure, that you CTS is ok?

 

 

What thermostat are you using? 88 Celsius is correct for the SPI otherwise the engine temperature stays to cool!!

 

Do you use the correct spark plugs? BPR6ES for SPI from NGK with .9mm gap. Champion RN9YCC or Bosch Superplus WR7DC+  with o,8mm gap.

 

Another help maybe just take the airfilter for MOT out.

In any case the engine ( the cat) should be as hot as possible .in order to work efficiently.  Drive some miles with power before starting emission check..

Edited by Alpenflitzer, 04 May 2016 - 04:06 PM.

[spiguy]

OP - Sorry about my useless reply - this is weird, when I looked today I saw this thread but it was only showing the post you made today.... Like as if it was a new thread!  I wouldn't have posted that otherwise.