16 replies to this topic

[MRA]

There is no problem with solder on a car if done properly.

 

Also, what about all of your electronics that are soldered???  Car stereo, electronic engine systems, onboard computers etc....  They are full of soldered components and I don't see them fatiguing and failing through vibration.  Just think of the amount electronics in modern cars!

 

If the job is done rubbish then you are going to have problems just like if you don't crimp a connector properly, it's all down to the skill of the person doing the job.

 

That is completely different, the vibrations associated with vehicles and their wiring is not the same issues associated with soldered PCB's etc...  it is a fact that billions of dollars have been thrown at making wiring harnesses more reliable and getting rid of soldered joints is the no 1 fellon, the main reason as stated previously is solder will wick up the wires, it is an unknown process and cannot be controlled, where as crimps can be calibrated and joints with crimps are less prone to failure.

 

Not one automotive wiring harness company will use soldered joints in a wiring harness for production use, that is the extent that car manufacturers will go to to reduce warranty claims.

[zerobelow]

The most comprehensive documentation for DC wiring that I've found is in the guides for marine wiring. My understanding is that solder is only acceptable in marine wire situations when it is used for the connection, but not for mechanical support of the wires. I.e. if you pull on the wire, it is not pulling on the solder, but on another support. That can be a clamp, crimp, or shrink tube.

 

I found this page to be quite useful:

http://www.pbase.com...ire_termination

If you think crimps are not strong, check page 5 of the above page, where he hangs 95 pounds of boat anchors from 2 pieces of 12gauge wire that are crimped together.

 

And see about halfway down page 5: http://www.pbase.com...mination&page=5

for a discussion of crimp vs solder+crimp vs solder.

 

For wiring, I prefer to use marine double crimp wire lugs, with an appropriate ratcheting wire tool.

 

I use nylon double crimp wire terminals:

http://www.amazon.co...on double crimp

 

And I use this crimper:

http://www.amazon.co...rine crimp tool

 

And I use this wire stripper:

http://www.amazon.co...MHVPY0MEXY0C7Y9

 

If you properly strip the wire and install the crimp terminal, there will be one crimp holding the metal of the terminal to the copper wire, and then another crimp that will hold a shoulder of the crimp terminal to the insulation of the wire. The copper should just protrude to the end of the barrel, visible but not exposed at the lug/blade/etc end of the crimp. The insulation should enter the wider part of the metal collar on the crimp, but should stop at the funnel, with only copper entering the narrower part of the terminal. On page 5 of the pbase article referenced above, it shows a cutaway of what good and bad crimps look like. With a good crimp, the separate strands of copper will nearly fuse together, creating a nearly solid mass of copper that will prevent moisture from wicking up. A good, brazed, crimp terminal will not split apart, and will create a strong hold on the wires.

 

If I am doing work in a wet place, I also use adhesive lined shrink tubing. I've been using this one below, though I found that my local electronics store has a better selection:

http://www.amazon.co...r shrink tubing

 

To shrink the tubing, I use an inexpensive heat shrink gun, though my butane soldering iron also has a heat shrink attachment that works in a pinch.

http://www.harborfre...1112-96289.html

 

And when done, I make sure to label both ends of the wiring, I use this labeler:

http://www.amazon.co...ire label maker

 

With this tape:

http://www.amazon.co...ire label nylon

 

Also, for wire, I have found that the automotive stores sell poor vinyl insulated wire. I spend a bit extra, and get GXL or TXL wire, which has a much more supple insulation, which lasts longer, and is rated for higher temperatures. The TXL insulation is better than that vinyl wire you get at the auto shop, AND it is significantly thinner, meaning you can fit more wire in smaller space than normal.

I have made extensive use of these kits:

http://www.wirebarn....olet_p_480.html

Edited by zerobelow, 03 March 2016 - 02:17 AM.