11 replies to this topic

[James_eaton_thewholething]

Hi all

I am about to buy paint for my car and need a decent supplier.

Things I need are

A decent high build primer
Decent primer
Decent base coat
Clear coat
Thinners

[David128]

Google cellulose paint suppliers Pretty sure you will find one local

[black olive]

http://auto-paint.co.uk/carpaint/

 

mail order or pick up, good range of paints, and reasonably priced

[Cooperman]

Jawal are an excellent supplier. I always use them and delivery is prompt, prices sensible and paint quality is fine.

Make sure you get top quality thinners for the final coats.

[James_eaton_thewholething]

I've got a place called premium car paints up by me. My dad and brother bought some stuff from them to paint parts of a golf both the rattle cans and tins were a good match for the metallic green. Just wanted to know if there was specific paint suppliers use.

Pcp is £19.95+vat a litre for colour and do 5l of high build for about £40 is that reasonable ?

[Daz1968]

sounds ok, but are you sure you want to use cellulose with a clear coat, normally its just a solid colour that you can flat and polish after.

I plan on using epoxy high build on mine as I found it gave a very good build and flatted very easily, if you are using metallic then rather than cellulose clear use a 1k clear like UPOL smartclear

[James_eaton_thewholething]

sounds ok, but are you sure you want to use cellulose with a clear coat, normally its just a solid colour that you can flat and polish after.
I plan on using epoxy high build on mine as I found it gave a very good build and flatted very easily, if you are using metallic then rather than cellulose clear use a 1k clear like UPOL smartclear

I have used a clear on the top after using rattle cans but did get a decent finish from just the colour.

Always thought you needed to clear paint. I'm going hurricane grey for the body which is a solid colour and satin black for the roof and everything else I guess just put enough coats on then colour sand and polish ?

[Cooperman]

You can spray a clear coat of lacquer onto a cellulose top coat, but it is not necessary. Whichever you do  the final cellulose colour top coat must be knibbed back with 1200 wet & dry. after that all it needs is cutting back with a suitable compound, then use 'Hand Glaze' to get the final finish before finally polishing once the paint has fully hardened.

On modern cellulose paints the paint does take longer to fully harden, so allow at least 4 weeks from final top coat to final knibbing back and polishing.

Cellulose does give a super finish if done properly and, many think, looks more correct for a classic car.

I saw a red 1966 Mini Traveller which had been what I considered 'over restored'. It had a modern very high gloss finish and they never came out of Longbridge like that. In fact many came out of Longbridge with a distinct 'orange-peel' finish - I know my then new 1964 Cooper 998 certainly did. I had a good friend who had a body shop back then and he buffed & polished it for me when he changed the roof colour from black to white before delivery. The supplying dealer, another friend, was highly amused by this.

[midridge2]

Seems to be some misunderstanding here, you can get cellulose in metallic base/solid base coat and solid colour, the base coats need clear but solid colour can be cleared also if you want.

[James_eaton_thewholething]

 

thanks will be going with out clear coat then illness the paint supplier says it's needed. Was going to do a final colour sand with1500- 2000 grit I know it's probably over the top this will be my first time spraying a car so a little nervous but it's all in the prep and I've been watching loads of videos and reading lots. Once it's painted I was going to just leave it for a good few weeks before even attempting to do anything else and put bits onto the car. Getting the satin black smooth will be a task but worth it.

 

Seems to be some misunderstanding here, you can get cellulose in metallic base/solid base coat and solid colour, the base coats need clear but solid colour can be cleared also if you want.

When I buy the paint I will ask the paint supplier. I know some colours are clear over base especially metallics

Edited by James_eaton_thewholething, 15 March 2016 - 06:09 PM.

[spiguy]

If I ever need to paint my car - which is metallic at the moment - I will not be bothering with metallic & clear, just going solid. So much better for any small repairs in future. With the metallic & clear, you need to try to blend the colour then lacquer the whole panel to avoid masking lines, unless you are a dab hand at using fade thinners etc. I have a BRG cooper, and if I ever paint it I fancy Brooklands or connaught green in solid!

[TheHippo]

I second Cooperman RE Jawel paints. Have just ordered a shed load from them to do my car - really impressed with faultless service. Very prompt, no hassle, and they even refunded me a large chunk of the postage as it turned out cheaper than they'd charged (which was unexpected)!