27 replies to this topic

[redboy]

Ive got a new oil filter housing and braided pipe coming tomorrow. Any tips for fitting or is it pretty straight forward?

 

One thing ive got to get at some point is a smaller torque wrench :/

[redboy]

Can anyone tell me if removing oil filter and housing will result in a lot of oil loss? I know the filter will have oil in.

So I need to drain engine oil to take the filter housing off?

[A-Cell]

No need to drain the oil to remove filter housing. The oil level is in the gearbox/ sump which is below this. You will lose a bit that in the filter housing and block oil gallery. Not much more than changing the filter. Don't forget to fit a new gasket between the housing and the block.

[redboy]

No need to drain the oil to remove filter housing. The oil level is in the gearbox/ sump which is below this. You will lose a bit that in the filter housing and block oil gallery. Not much more than changing the filter. Don't forget to fit a new gasket between the housing and the block.

Thanks. All off.

I notice the bolts for the housing have blue on the thread. I take it they need some loctite on them. Says nothing in the Haynes about it.

[A-Cell]

Could be they are patch bolts. Dab of loctite ok.

[redboy]

All done. Not road tested yet though. I enjoyed the Nice little hour and half trip to mini spares as they sent me the wrong oil pipe adapter to start the day.



Just hope the pipe does not start melting the air pipe.

[Rubbershorts]

So as per this old thread I found, I have a leak where the oil transfer pipe plumbs in to the oil filter housing. As the original thread is almost 10 years old, is the answer the same?

Is it worth trying to nip the nut up first, or can this end badly?

If I do have to replace something do both the pipe and the housing have to be replaced?

Thanks, Daz.

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[Spider]

Nipping it I doubt will help. The tube nut has bottomed out so there's not enough pressure on the olive or flare that's on the tube, in to the seat.

About the only thing I can think of that might work here is undoing it, and putting an aluminium or copper washer in to the seat, to raise it and doing it up again. While it's apart, check the seat in the filter head, if that's marred or scratched, it'll never seal no matter what with that set up. Fitting a nipple and a different pipe set up might be a way forward.

[Rubbershorts]

Nipping it I doubt will help. The tube nut has bottomed out so there's not enough pressure on the olive or flare that's on the tube, in to the seat.

About the only thing I can think of that might work here is undoing it, and putting an aluminium or copper washer in to the seat, to raise it and doing it up again. While it's apart, check the seat in the filter head, if that's marred or scratched, it'll never seal no matter what with that set up. Fitting a nipple and a different pipe set up might be a way forward.

Thanks Spider. What do you mean by nipple?

[Quinlan minor]

Thanks Spider. What do you mean by nipple?

 

Flare, I would think.

[Spider]

Thanks Spider. What do you mean by nipple?

 

Looking at your Oil Filter Head, it appears to be a standard factory item, though I'm not sure if they went to a different system on later cars here. <See edit below>

These don't actually have a seat in them at all for an Olive or Flare to seat on. The thread is tapered (if memory serves, it's 1/4" BSPT)

The standard plumbing arrangement has a nipple screwed in to the head, the nipple has a 45 deg tapered seat on it, on to which the pipe, that has a flare on it, seats and seals. If you look at the pick here, the first hex up from the filter head is the nipple;-

 OilFilterHead01WM.JPG   48.67K   0 downloads

 

Part No. TAM 2119

<Edit: There is a late Oil Filter Head that does appear to have a seat in the bottom of this drilling, however, looking at yours, I'm wondering of the pipe is for this type of head but the head itself is the earlier type that doesn't have a seat ?>

[Rubbershorts]

I had a fiddle with this yesterday. I'd already half decided I was going to swap it out anyway so it was more experimental. I undid the union and backed it off. There does appear to be some kind of black nylon/rubber washer in there and the leak appeared to be coming from the middle. I wrapped the pipe in a couple of rounds of PTFE tape an pushed this down to the base of the pipe before screwing the union back in. I had to wiggle the pipe a bit as it was trying to cross thread. Started the car and the leak had stopped. Unfortunately the movement had cracked open the head union and oil was more than dribbling out of that one. I tried the same thing with that one and that also stopped. Google says PTFE tape is resistant to oil, but Im not sure how long that fix would last, especially after seeing how easy it was to cause the second one. It's probably okay for an emergency fix if stuck somewhere. I've dropped Minispares an email to confirm all the bits I'd need for a 12A engine, and I'll change it and get the original bits into the bin pronto. Daz.

[Rubbershorts]

I have the new filter housing and transfer pipe so have removed the old one. There is a rubber gromit in the hole of the block. Do I leave that in there and place my new fitting over the top, or prise it out? Daz.

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