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A Sad Day For My Daughter's Mini At The Mot


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#1 PaulColeman

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 02:17 PM

My Daughter's 1976 Mini 1000 saloon failed its MOT today (miserably). I used a colour tune to get a nice bunsen burner blue flame (as per the instructions) and ended up with a CO reading of 9.8% (CO limit is 4.5% and the HC was measured at 690ppm). Members of Greenpeace were chasing me home wielding pick axes!!

 

I obviously need to set the carb and I've borrowed a CO meter but I can't remember what the timing should be. I've had it converted to unleaded. Can somebody please tell me what it should be?

 

Next up it failed on the foot brake being below the minimum. It has drums all round and the shoes, calipers and master cylinder are all 2 years old during which it has done about 12,000 miles. I had literally just adjusted them prior to the MOT so I'm not exactly sure what more I can do with them?

It also failed on the fact that the handbrake is imbalanced across the axle?

 

Lastly it needs a new rubber boots on the outer CV joint on the driver's side. The tester said that whilst I was at it I should also do the inner one too. I don't think that's too big a job though?

 

Any thoughts from the masses would be appreciated, particularly about the brakes as that worries me the most...

 

Thanks, Paul.


Edited by PaulColeman, 29 March 2016 - 02:17 PM.


#2 David128

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 02:27 PM

Readjust the brakes with handbrake off until they are just locked on. Pump pedal a few times and check they are still locked if so readjust until just free. if not adjust up again then pump pedal etc until correct. I assume that slave cylinders are working properly. If new shoes take it for a short drive with hand brake just on and adjust as necessary



#3 KernowCooper

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 02:35 PM

Have you whipped the drums off and checked you dont have a bit of fluid on the linings? or maybe they need a de-glaze



#4 PaulColeman

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 02:38 PM

Readjust the brakes with handbrake off until they are just locked on. Pump pedal a few times and check they are still locked if so readjust until just free. if not adjust up again then pump pedal etc until correct. I assume that slave cylinders are working properly. If new shoes take it for a short drive with hand brake just on and adjust as necessary

The shoes are a couple of years old and I did adjust them with the handbrake off.

 

Have you whipped the drums off and checked you dont have a bit of fluid on the linings? or maybe they need a de-glaze

No I haven't yet. I will have a look but he didn't mention it being just one wheel. It seemed as though they were all pretty bad?



#5 KernowCooper

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 02:44 PM

Maybe glazed a bit on the linings and rough up the drums, and re-adjust after checking the wheel cylinders are free. You'd be surprised at how a tightly adjusted system with someone who's light on the brakes can suffer tight wheel cylinder pistons, especially if the cars left to stand.


Edited by KernowCooper, 29 March 2016 - 02:45 PM.


#6 SuperDeLuxeNick

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 02:45 PM

this really isn't a terrible fail... you will get it sorted easy!



#7 PaulColeman

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 02:47 PM

Maybe glazed a bit on the linings and rough up the drums, and re-adjust after checking the wheel cylinders are free.

As in rough up both with ??? grit wet and dry?

 

this really isn't a terrible fail... you will get it sorted easy!

No I know, I was being over dramatic like my Daughter! It's the end of the world to her ;-) She has visions of missing the L2B where it's entered into the show and shine. The problem with the brakes is you don't know how good/bad they are without a way of testing them.


Edited by PaulColeman, 29 March 2016 - 02:48 PM.


#8 KernowCooper

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 02:52 PM

Yes rough up with wet and dry grip. something rough on the drums like 80grit, as for the jobs its something even the home user can sort in a day.



#9 PaulColeman

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 02:54 PM

Yes rough up with wet and dry grip. something rough on the drums like 80grit, as for the jobs its something even the home user can sort in a day.

Okay. Yes I'm not too worried about the other jobs it's the brakes that concern me. Any idea why the handbrake would be out of balance? As far as I remember there's nothing to adjust on the handbrakes at the rear?



#10 KernowCooper

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 03:00 PM

1.Tight quadrents? the linkage semi-seized inside between the shoes on the pivot,  2.handbrake incorrectly adjusted on the cable not allowing the correct leverage on the linkage could be any of those, or even wet linings as I pointed out above.

Whip the drums off and back the handbrake cable off inspect cylinders for leakage and free movement, clean the drums/shoes if ok and then adjust as required, now adjust the handbrake travel once you have inspected the points I mentioned above in 1.



#11 PaulColeman

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 03:09 PM

1.Tight quadrents? the linkage semi-seized inside between the shoes on the pivot,  2.handbrake incorrectly adjusted on the cable not allowing the correct leverage on the linkage could be any of those, or even wet linings as I pointed out above.

Whip the drums off and back the handbrake cable off inspect cylinders for leakage and free movement, clean the drums/shoes if ok and then adjust as required, now adjust the handbrake travel once you have inspected the points I mentioned above in 1.

Okay, thanks for the tips. By quadrants I'm guessing you mean the things the handbrake cables run in which pivot? Presumably the cable should be free to move in those even though they're bent over the cables?



#12 Tamworthbay

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 03:09 PM

this really isn't a terrible fail... you will get it sorted easy!

+1 it's not that bad by any stretch, the above advice on the brakes is all good. I would suggest a morning spent stripping and cleaning each corner and a general check through. Even if you need a few bits they are all cheap and easily available.

#13 sonikk4

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 03:10 PM

If the quadrants are seized or tight then that will create issues for the handbrake. Its quite common for that to happen.



#14 PaulColeman

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 03:31 PM

Can you confirm that the cables should be free to move in those quadrants?

 

Just checked the Haynes manual and it says the timing should be 7 degrees BTDC with the vacuum pipe disconnected at 1000rpm. Should I modify this to allow for unleaded fuel?



#15 midridge2

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 04:05 PM

No the cables should not be free in the quadrants, the quadrants should be free to move, that's why the cable is fixed into the quadrants.






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