39 replies to this topic

[Tamworthbay]

There is space for a remote servo and kits are abailable but I wouldn't bother. I don't like the feel of the brakes with a servo fitted, but others will disagree so it does come down to personal choice. I would try before you buy if you can, I am sure someone local would have a servo setup you could compare with.

 
Yep I disagree.... I like the feel of a servo, it is a lot lighter but you can still get the response and you very quickly get used to them..... well some people do anyway  
 
OCT 88 onwards they where all fitted with master cylinder combined servo units

I am not surprised, they suit some people. In my experience those used to modern cars, are smaller or who aren't enthusiastic drivers like the softer, dare I say lazier, feel of the servo assistance. Again, in my experience, those who like 'drivers' cars or with a bit more experience prefer the feel the non servo set up. But it does come down to the individual and it is very important to remember that the one thing a servo doesn't do in any way shape or form is improve the braking. They will still lock at the same point, it will just feel different.

[sonikk4]

Having fitted the 7.5" disc conversion to my clubby the car pulls up very smartly without the need for servo assistance. You may have to push slightly harder on the brake pedal but that's it. Ran it for two seasons like that without any reason to be concerned about needing a servo.

And that was with standard spec pads and shoes, nothing special at all. Try before you buy.

[Ethel]

If it's a post '76 car with the hexagonal(ish) pedals it will have a bit more mechanical advantage than the "S" had with its 7.5 discs. The master cylinder may give a bit more, depending on which variety it is. The big advantage of discs isn't the stopping power as much as you can rely on them to pull up square without locking more than you can drums.

[PaulColeman]

Thanks all for your thoughts. I'm going to try and get the drums up to scratch for this year's MOT and then look to do a disc conversion in the summer when my Daughter is working and the weather is warmer.

 

I have taken the front drums off and they were full of brake dust. The cylinders are not leaking but one of them isn't working properly, so I shall replace that one and then check the backs. I'll give the shoes a good scuff up as well but they're not worn too much.

[MRA]

 

 

There is space for a remote servo and kits are abailable but I wouldn't bother. I don't like the feel of the brakes with a servo fitted, but others will disagree so it does come down to personal choice. I would try before you buy if you can, I am sure someone local would have a servo setup you could compare with.

 
Yep I disagree.... I like the feel of a servo, it is a lot lighter but you can still get the response and you very quickly get used to them..... well some people do anyway  
 
OCT 88 onwards they where all fitted with master cylinder combined servo units

I am not surprised, they suit some people. In my experience those used to modern cars, are smaller or who aren't enthusiastic drivers like the softer, dare I say lazier, feel of the servo assistance. Again, in my experience, those who like 'drivers' cars or with a bit more experience prefer the feel the non servo set up. But it does come down to the individual and it is very important to remember that the one thing a servo doesn't do in any way shape or form is improve the braking. They will still lock at the same point, it will just feel different.

 

Lol, I don't fit into any of your brackets above Clive, at over 6 feet tall, 200lbs 40+ years experience on road, off road, on track and in ditch.....  I don't necessarily like servo's in other cars but later type on the Mini I think it just seems to work so well, still gives plenty of feel for me without being too light.

 

Correct a servo will not make the brakes work better if they are at their limit no matter how hard you press that is it no more braking.

 

Also to note if your callipers are a little "stiff" a servo is NOT a fix, fit new pistons and seals.

[MRA]

PM sent to OP

[PaulColeman]

Update:

I found that one of the front cylinders and one at the back weren't working at all. Neither were leaking though so the shoes are not contaminated and all the shoes have plenty of life left in them yet. I have cleaned all the brake dust out of all 4 corners and I will scuff up the pads before I refit the drums.

 

I have checked the quadrants for the handbrake and they're both free and one of the shoes on each side moves out when the handbrake is applied. I suspect that both shoes should move but that may be because I have the drums off? So I can't see why the MOT said that there was a significant difference between each rear handbrake?

[ChopperHarris]

adjustment?

[PaulColeman]

I did adjust the handbrake as per the Haynes manual just before the MOT. Thinking about it I'm wondering if the shoe was stuck on the cylinder which was seized and whether that was causing (adding) to the problem. I think I'll bleed all the brakes and double check tomorrow and then readjust everything again and go for the re-test...

[ChopperHarris]

No, adjusting the shoes also effects handbrake performance.

Unlikely for shoe to be stuck on the slave cylinder..

How did you check the slaves were seized? While someone presses the pedal gently you should hold the shoes back with a pair of levers and test each in turn, sometimes one will move easier than the other, you have to restrain that to force the other to move