hi i have a 1962 mini cooper 997 engine, i recently bought a early flywheel (the six spring type), i assume its off a mini 850 as the crank taper is smaller than my 997 crank taper, what i want to know is if i recut the taper to suit my crank is the rest of the flywheel the same, ies clutch plate size clutch throw distance (from thrust bearing to where it seats onto the flywheel? also will the primary gear and original wide oil seal fit ok? my engine still uses the oil fed one, any help here would be greatly appreciated. john
Mini Cooper 997 Crank Taper
#1
Posted 05 April 2016 - 07:01 PM
#2
Posted 06 April 2016 - 03:30 AM
The 997 Cooper was fitted with two types of Flywheel and both were unique to the model, though the later one was shared with the 998 Cooper (and only that model).
With what you're proposing, it should be OK, not something I've needed to do.
Here's a factory technical sheet which maybe of help;-
Edited by Moke Spider, 06 April 2016 - 03:31 AM.
#3
Posted 06 April 2016 - 10:35 AM
hi i have a 1962 mini cooper 997 engine, i recently bought a early flywheel (the six spring type), i assume its off a mini 850 as the crank taper is smaller than my 997 crank taper, what i want to know is if i recut the taper to suit my crank is the rest of the flywheel the same, ies clutch plate size clutch throw distance (from thrust bearing to where it seats onto the flywheel? also will the primary gear and original wide oil seal fit ok? my engine still uses the oil fed one, any help here would be greatly appreciated. john
I have a 997 and did not have the flywheel. To complicate matters I wanted to use a dry primary gear. I used a standard diaphragm flywheel and had the taper recut. The original primary gear was about an 1/8th longer and I had a spacer made up for the end of the deva bush primary gear to match the length. This has meant that the back of the flywheel has had to be machined to allow clearance.
As for the clutch, despite using new components, arm, release bearing and carrier etc, I still have to use a specially made longer pin in the slave cylinder to get a smooth working clutch action. Having said that it has all worked for the last 15 years or so. Everything looks totally standard as I wanted.
By the way the 997 is much underrated, (mostly by those who have never driven one) and with a 295 head goes like the clappers. ![]()
I hope that helps.
Spider that chart is very useful.
#4
Posted 11 April 2016 - 07:11 PM
Ace you made me realise anything is possible, great job there!! Special thanks to spider though because without his chart it would have been all guess work! firstly I had to machine out the recess that retains the primary gear retaining washer because the 850 washer is smaller I made it just flush with the original flange, then I turned it around on the lathe put the dial gauge on the taper to make sure it was true then bored the taper out to the 997 crank size, (2.5 degrees taper) I had to take two nibbles at it until I got the flywheel oil seal sitting in the correct place on the primary gear, I then had to lose a little off the flywheel nose until the crank length was just under the flywheel nose length, I just have to mill out the slot in the flywheel slightly now to allow the washer to seat correctly due to reducing its length. I was tempted to reduce the flywheel overall diameter but they drill the balance holes right near the edge and even in the edge of the flywheel so I decided against it because I didn’t want to throw out the balance. the only other thing is im assuming the starter gear diameter/teeth number is the same for the 850 and the 997?? Thanks to you guys for the information given, the chart was so useful spider!! Keep up the good work guys!!
#5
Posted 12 April 2016 - 01:20 AM
Glad to hear that after some trouble, you got it sorted :)
Cheers
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