4 replies to this topic

[Vazerhino]

I have read and re-read this forum and have implemented a number of suggestions, to no avail, so here it goes again.

 

My 1997 Jap spec Cooper was essentially off the road for the best part of five years with the last owner - about 8000 miles in five years.  i blew the water pump on my maiden journey three months ago.  Then, everything was sweet for three months.  Running around 65-75 on a digital temperature gauge installed by the previous owner.  About two weeks ago - the engine starts idling high (nothing crazy - up to about 1500), which would then re-set to normal if i re-started the car.  Then lacking power at low temp and some occasional misfiring at speed - fixed with new spark plugs.  I have also replaced the ECU to fuel trap (there was an obvious crack) with a silicone one, just to be safe.  I have the 4 OEM vacuum pipes on the way (to Australia, so it is taking a while).

 

A few days later, my current problem(s) started.  I over-heated - some extra coolant and driving prevented it from boiling over, but lots of anxiety.  The auxiliary fan is not coming on - read some more on that problem.  This morning, the car ran poorly prior to warm up (idling around 500 - 600), but responded to a little of extra throttle.  Then very quickly (couple of minutes) went from cold to 95 degrees.  Meanwhile, the aux fan is not turning on and the standard fitted temperature gauge doesn't even hit the black line, let alone approach the red.  Except for the over-heating (and therefore as long as i am not in traffic), the car continues to idle high (now up to 1500 to 1800) when on the colder side but idles fairly well (about 800 to 1000) when warmed up and drives pretty well.  After reading the forum, it seems that I should immediately replace the four vacuum tubes and the fuel trap.

 

But, something tells me these are all inter-related and i am missing the bigger picture tying it together.  It has a "performance radiator" in it, which is only a couple of years old (and no more than 10 000 miles old).  The somewhat poor performance i can deal with for now.  The over-heating I can not as it over-heats on my 10 min commute to work.  I don't have access to a code reader - looking at buying a pscan one - e-mailed them today.

 

I would greatly appreciate the forum's expertise to point me in the right direction of what to do next.

 

PS.  I have some extractors on the way - should i go ahead and install them or solve these problems first?  my thought was to install them and then if there is an on-going problem, i will have to pay someone to diagnose +/- fix, so it might as well be with the extractors.  And should i just replace the lambda sensor and temperature sensor at the same time?

 

thanks

 

 

[FlyingScot]

Check the basics, forget its fuel injected for a minute the overheating sounds like a stuck thermostat or similar.

The electric fan works by a thermo switch in the bottom of the radiator, since it been replaced how is that working now?

Once the cooling sorted then look at the FI side

FS

[Vazerhino]

thanks for the response

 

sorry - the replacement switch is on the way with the vacuum tubes.

[Vazerhino]

quick update and advice - last night i ran the car trying to further problem-solve the overheating.  the car is on stands and so at idle, the car would not get up to temperature, let alone over-heat.  the radiator remained cold throughout.  the engine was a little hot to touch. i decided to give it a bit of throttle - all of a sudden i had MASSIVE amounts of white smoke / vapour with strong fuel smell to the point i thought the neighbours would complain.  i shut it down - removed the rocker cover and the oil seemed to be very thin and smelling strongly of fuel.  there is no obvious water / sludge under the rocker cover.

 

have i done my head gasket?  someone suggested the water pump seal may have blown.

 

any thoughts?

[Alpenflitzer]

1. Maybe due to overheating the cylinderhead gasket has burnt through or the cylinder head gasket was burnt before and hot gases heated up the cooling water.. White smoke indicates water in combustion room

2. You should not let the engine run without getting a new gasket.

3. Check the thermostat, it should be an 85 C Degree thermostat.( as it is an SPI) If you cannot measure if your old one opens ast 85 degree than buy a new one together with the 2 gaskets. It seems you thermostat has gone.

4. Check the coolant temperatur sensor  (sits in the manifold) and the cable.

5. Check if the fan blades are mounted in the right direction. The heat should be blown to the outside. (Sometimes wrongly fixed)

6. Measure the compression of all 4 cylinders if they are still ok.

 

Later on I recommend to flush your cooling system thoroughly.

Open the heater to warm. Put in 5-6 tabs of decalcinator ( those you use for the coffee machine) run the engine for a minute and let them stay over night. 

Next morning run the engine 2-3 minutes. Heater still open. 

Then take off the sensor on the front bottom of the radiator and let the water get out.

With a garden hose flush for some minutes the system. Then put back the radiator sensor. fill the system with simple water and drive some miles.

Then change again the coolant. (Heater open)

I use 50% Glysantin and 50 % water. Depending on your temperature less Glysantin.30%

This prevents rust and dirt layers in the system.

Edited by Alpenflitzer, 24 April 2016 - 12:32 PM.