8 replies to this topic

[MrJenkinsEsq]

Hi all,

 

I'm hoping to plunder your collective knowledge for some advice on my build!  The current situation is that I'm rebuilding an MG Metro engine to put in my Mk1.  The engine has been completely disassembled and will be going off to Southam Mini Centre very soon to be machined as I've heard nothing but positive feedback about them.  Which brings me onto the gearbox...

 

The previous owner of my min was a rally driver who hacked a square box into the exhaust tunnel to convert it to a rod change.  I've been running a 998 A+ in it with a rod change for the last few years, but the floor is a mess and it's always bugged me.  I'm thinking why not put the Mk1 tunnel back in while I'm rebuilding the engine and gearbox, and going back to a remote linkage.  I have a remote change 998 pre A+ engine and gearbox sat in the garage, as well as all the MG Metro bits, a 998 A+, and a couple of 850s, so my questions are:

 

1. Would the 998 A series remote gearbox be suitable for rebuilding (hopefully by a certain Mr Guessworks) and fitting to my A+ engine?  I'm thinking a rebuild with standard helical gears and a cross-pin diff.  I have pot joint driveshafts, and I believe it's possible to convert while rebuilding?
2. The primary gear from the MG Metro looks shot as it the engine was stood for around 8 years without the clutch housing on.  Am I right in thinking I would need standard 1275 A series drop gears to go with the pre A+ 998 gearbox, and they would go onto my A+ crankshaft?
3. I'll be using a pre-verto clutch, flywheel and inertia starter.  I converted my 998 A+ to this setup, so want to take it over to the 1275 A+.  Can I fit the entire clutch/flywheel housing from the 998 pre-A+ to the Metro A+ block?
4. Will my Aldon A+ dizzy still fit if it's an A+ block but pre A+ gearbox?
5. Which parts would you recommend I refurbish on the old remote linkage?  I'll likely be fitting a KAD quickshift to it.

Sorry if that's very long winded, but I've been scouring as much info as I can, but just want to check I've got it right!  So I'm thinking:

 

1275 A+ engine/crank, with pre A+ drop gears, clutch housing and pre A+ 998 remote gearbox rebuilt and converted to pot joints, using the remote gear linkage.  Finally, do you think this is a sensible approach or should I I just leave the box in the floor and rebuild a standard rod change gearbox! 

 

Your thoughts would be a great help!  

 

 

[nicklouse]

1 yes and get him to sort drop gears.
2 see above.
3 yes but get it lightened and balanced.
4 no.
5 grease it and do not fit a travel reducing gear stick.

[MrJenkinsEsq]

Thanks for the response!  Yep, I've got a lightened and balanced MED clutch assembly ready to go :)

 

Re the A+ dizzy, I thought the distributor needed to match the block, so A+ block with A+ dizzy?  If I've got a mongrel engine and gearbox, any idea which dizzy would I need, or what would I need to do to make one fit?

[nicklouse]

Thanks for the response!  Yep, I've got a lightened and balanced MED clutch assembly ready to go :)
 
Re the A+ dizzy, I thought the distributor needed to match the block, so A+ block with A+ dizzy?  If I've got a mongrel engine and gearbox, any idea which dizzy would I need, or what would I need to do to make one fit?

Yes it will be fine it was the Un needed pre A+ In the sentence that miss leaded me. Dizzy has nothing to do with gearbox.

[MrJenkinsEsq]

I've just realised how daft a question that was since the dizzy is driven from the camshaft!    I think my brain needs a rest :)  Really appreciate the advice though!  Do you have much experience of using the remote linkage over the rod?  I've heard that it is an improvement, mainly due to the added stabiliser.  I have a quickshift on my rod change at the moment, but is putting one on the remote not worthwhile?

[Ethel]

The remote mechanism is a bit slicker than rod change, as well as there being no stop, just a spring, between 4th & reverse. I'd try it in standard spec first.

[nicklouse]

I've just realised how daft a question that was since the dizzy is driven from the camshaft!    I think my brain needs a rest :)  Really appreciate the advice though!  Do you have much experience of using the remote linkage over the rod?  I've heard that it is an improvement, mainly due to the added stabiliser.  I have a quickshift on my rod change at the moment, but is putting one on the remote not worthwhile?

I have remote. I had a KAD reduced travel stick on it fir a short time. Did not like. Went back to original with the reverse lock out on it.

[MrJenkinsEsq]

Great, I'll give it a try like that first and see how I go.  Thanks both :)

[nicklouse]

Reverse lock out fitted.



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