Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Rostyle Wheels - Ovalled Mounting Holes


  • Please log in to reply
9 replies to this topic

#1 sherly

sherly

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 704 posts
  • Location: Saaaa'fend

Posted 04 May 2016 - 03:01 PM

Hi all,

 

I've got a set of Rostyle wheels which I'm keen to refurb and use but on closer inspection the mounting holes seem to be slightly ovalled.

 

File_001%202.jpeg

 

File_000%2014.jpeg

 

 

Why has this happened? (I'm assuming wrong wheel nuts used in the past and overtightened?)

 

Presumably using the wheels like this is unwise?

 

Can this be fixed?

 

Any advice appreciated - I'm keen not to have to junk these wheels as they seem to be getting hard to find......

 

Cheers! :) 



#2 Cooperman

Cooperman

    Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 23,340 posts
  • Location: Cambs.
  • Local Club: MCR, HAMOC, Chelmsford M.C.

Posted 04 May 2016 - 05:12 PM

Of course, they could be repaired, but it would be necessary to weld suitably shaped patch pieces exactly on the 4" PCD. The repairs would be obvious if viewed closely.

 

Looking at the overall condition it is probably not worth doing. Better to use better condition wheels.



#3 sherly

sherly

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 704 posts
  • Location: Saaaa'fend

Posted 06 May 2016 - 06:45 PM

Of course, they could be repaired, but it would be necessary to weld suitably shaped patch pieces exactly on the 4" PCD. The repairs would be obvious if viewed closely.

 

Looking at the overall condition it is probably not worth doing. Better to use better condition wheels.

 

My plan is to form up some washers at the correct seat angle and get them tig welded in place (using a spare hub to set up as a jig to make sure everything is central and on the correct pcd)

 

Other than the oval holes they're not that bad (not dented, bent or buckled) so worth saving I reckon (and they don't come up for sale too often - that I've noticed anyway)

 

So why ovalled?  Anyone else experienced this type of damage on steel wheels?



#4 Cooperman

Cooperman

    Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 23,340 posts
  • Location: Cambs.
  • Local Club: MCR, HAMOC, Chelmsford M.C.

Posted 06 May 2016 - 07:16 PM

Maybe someone tried to fit them onto 100 mm PCD hubs (it has been done!).



#5 sherly

sherly

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 704 posts
  • Location: Saaaa'fend

Posted 06 May 2016 - 07:52 PM

Maybe someone tried to fit them onto 100 mm PCD hubs (it has been done!).

 

Yeah that would do it....can't see overtightening or using the wrong nuts causing ovalling.  



#6 GraemeC

GraemeC

    Crazy About Mini's

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,446 posts
  • Location: Carnforth

Posted 06 May 2016 - 09:15 PM

Running with the nuts too loose will cause this too

#7 tiger99

tiger99

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,584 posts
  • Location: Hemel Hempstead

Posted 07 May 2016 - 05:01 PM

No, it was most likely 100mm pitch hubs. Why am I so sure? Well the ovals appear to extend radially, where the error is 1.6mm overall. Loose nuts "should" wear the wheels circumferential as a result of drive and braking torque, if the centre bore of the wheel is fitting properly on the hub. Not that it matters, either they are scrap or a first class repair is required. Just about permissible on steels, NEVER on alloys. Mild steel is a somewhat forgiving material and I would be happy with a properly welded and machined repair by a qualified expert.

#8 Cooperman

Cooperman

    Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 23,340 posts
  • Location: Cambs.
  • Local Club: MCR, HAMOC, Chelmsford M.C.

Posted 07 May 2016 - 07:24 PM

I have seen a Minilite alloy repaired where the wheel nuts were not tightened and the holes were damaged. The holes were jig-bored out to around 1/8" bigger diameter and alloy sleeves press fitted into the holes. The internal diameter of the holes was then re-drilled and reamed so that the sleeved nuts would fit correctly and larger washers made up to go under the nuts to ensure sufficient clamping area.

But a lot of work and not cheap unless you can do all the machining yourself.



#9 MRA

MRA

    Previously known as 'mra-minis.co.uk'.

  • Banned
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,607 posts
  • Location: Due to move again....

Posted 08 May 2016 - 02:40 AM

In the case of aluminium wheels, it is easy enough to just make oversize nuts, something I have done a few times over the years.

 

However I am really surprised nobody noticed the paint cracking around the holes of the steel wheels that Sherly has, this is a potentially lethal fatigue failing, as the metal underneath "moves" it stretches the paint and cracks appear, in the case of these wheels I see 3 options.

 

1) turn them into garden ornaments with flowers in them.

2) scrap them.

3) or weld in laser cut profiles into the "triangular" section (first picture) after cutting the damaged section out, this will require longer studs and re-cutting the holes and seats.

 

This was fairly common with the very early 10" steels, where the complete centre would just break out.



#10 MRA

MRA

    Previously known as 'mra-minis.co.uk'.

  • Banned
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,607 posts
  • Location: Due to move again....

Posted 08 May 2016 - 02:45 AM

No, it was most likely 100mm pitch hubs. Why am I so sure? Well the ovals appear to extend radially, where the error is 1.6mm overall. Loose nuts "should" wear the wheels circumferential as a result of drive and braking torque, if the centre bore of the wheel is fitting properly on the hub. Not that it matters, either they are scrap or a first class repair is required. Just about permissible on steels, NEVER on alloys. Mild steel is a somewhat forgiving material and I would be happy with a properly welded and machined repair by a qualified expert.

 

100mm is 1.6mm smaller than 4"

 

A loose wheel will in most cases just wear the holes bigger, as it is mainly due to the vehicle mass acting downwards that causes the most wear. and to move in any direction will cause all 4 studs to move in the same direction i relation to the hub / drive flange.

 

Welding these wheels is possible, however I would not do it, and even then it / they would then need to go for XRAY checking which just adds a load of extra cost.

 

How much are the wheels worth ?


Edited by MRA, 08 May 2016 - 02:49 AM.





1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users