17 replies to this topic

[90BHP]

Totally standard 1962 Super. What clutch parts do I need? I'm rubbish on early stuff but do know it's 100% original. Looking on Somerfords site, everything seems to be 1964 on.

 

All help, much appreciated !

 

thanks

 

 

[nicklouse]

so what do you have? a clutch for a 62 or a clutch for a 64 on?

 

and what do you want to do?

[mk1leg]

whats wrong Is it just the clutch plate you are after of the flywheel and back plate.....

[90BHP]

Sorry chaps, yet to haul it all apart. Its got a 62 clutch in it, but I can't seem to work out what parts I should be looking at. Hopefully its just the plate that will need replacing - but I'm a bit OCD and usually want to know exactly what parts I may need before starting a job...

 

I was trying to find out the part numbers for all the components. But to be clear, everything I look up seems to say 64 on and 1980-something on... so as its a 62 - I'm struggling.

[nicklouse]

It is all clear if you read th I go on sommerfords pages.

Clutch Components
Coil Spring Clutch, 1959-64
At time of writing, components for the coil spring clutch fitted between 1959 and 1964 are hard to come by, to say the least. The later design diaphragm housing and/or clutch plate can be used to repair or replace a coil spring clutch in some instances: however by rule of thumb, the earlier the flywheel and crankshaft, the less likely this will be possible. On 1963-64 flywheels, it's a straight replacement of coil spring clutch parts by diaphragm clutch equivalents. 1962-63 flywheels (i.e. those with the 1 3/8" machining for the Deva bush) will accept a diaphragm type clutch plate, but not a diaphragm housing. 1959-62 oil-fed bush type flywheels (can't be many of these left now, surely - most were replaced with Deva flywheels in the 1960s) will only accept coil spring clutch components. If you're unlucky enough to need to replace the clutch on one of these, a crankshaft, primary gear and flywheel swap will be required - or an engine swap, which might be cheaper and would certainly be quicker.

Please contact us if you require replacement parts for a coil spring clutch assembly, giving us if possible as much detail as you can about the dimensions of the flywheel to which the clutch is to be fitted. The following are the original components for coil spring clutches:

Until you have it in bits you don't know if it has been changed up as most were in the 60s....

[Cooperman]

Before 1964 the Mini & Cooper had a pillar-spring compression spring operated clutch. Late in 1964 the spring diaphragm clutch was fitted. Most people doing a restoration will fit a diaphragm spring clutch and I think the original type is NLA, so you will probably have no option. You might need to replace the flywheel to accept the diaphragm spring type.

[Daz1968]

Depends on condition as I have a 1962 deluxe and had to replace the clutch plate due to slipping, problem with early cars is the crank is wet and the seal leaks.
The seal happens to be same size as the front hub so not too difficult to change,
I had to make a tool to compress the coil springs as it's difficult to fit without one.
The plate and backplate is same as diaphragm clutch, the coil springs are available if you look around but mine were perfectly fine.
If you do want to change the flywheel needs machining to fit diaphragm, you can't just fit a later flywheel as the tail is smaller on early cars.
You can convert wet crank to dry with a special primary gear or have yours fitted with an oil lite bush and plug hole in crank, or if rebuilding engine change crank and flywheel to later type.
I have found early clutch more than adequate for the standard engine.
If you need any further information let me know.

Edited by Daz1968, 20 June 2016 - 08:20 PM.

[surfblue]

A timely post!

My '63 had clutch operation issues previously, solved with new master and slave cylinders.

I then had the engine and box out as the gearbox was worn, replaced with good used one, back together, all good.

At that time I discovered that it still has the old spring clutch fitted. I intended to change the flywheel to accept diaphragm clutch but discovered, yep its the narrow tail crank. So popped it all back together with a new clutch plate

All was good until Saturday past, sitting in a long slow moving queue waiting to get into a classic car show clutch began to refuse to release making gear selection impossible. Resorted to starting it in gear to get it moving into the show. Had to have it recovered - handy having a brother with access to a break down lorry!

Attempts at adjustment have proved unsuccessful so guess its off with the bell housing and flywheel again to see whats going on in there.

 

While I do value originality , I prefer reliability so am leaning towards the diaphragm clutch set up.

I understand my options are either 1. Having the flywheel machined or 2. Replacing the crankshaft for the later type to accept the diaphragm clutch flywheel.(Or 3 replace the engine but the original has been in there for 53 years, seems a shame to separate them now!)

 

Can anyone provide a diagram with the machining dimensions that an engineering workshop could follow (including minimum thickness for flywheel if its face needs machining)

 

Or part number for the later crankshaft (are 850 and 1000 pre verto crankshafts the same?) And assistance locating one?

 

Thanks

Edited by surfblue, 21 June 2016 - 06:58 PM.

[Daz1968]

Information is on this link,

http://mk1-performan..._mechanical.htm

But not disengaging doesn't sound like the usual problems with coil spring clutch

Edited by Daz1968, 21 June 2016 - 10:15 PM.

[Spider]

It was some time ago (a very long time ago) but I do recall taking the hub from a wet flywheel and fitting to a dry flywheel, then fitting up the diaphragm clutch as you normally would. I can't recall if any other mods were needed, but I don't recall doing any.

[surfblue]

Information is on this link,

http://mk1-performan..._mechanical.htm

But not disengaging doesn't sound like the usual problems with coil spring clutch

Is that the only dimensions a machine shop would need to modify the flywheel?, What about bolt holes to attach the diaphragm spring etc, are these in the same place on the spring type flywheel? 

[Daz1968]

As far as I know the bolt centres etc are the same, it's just the profile that the diaphragm spring pushes against, they are only bolted through the straps to the backplate.
My clutch slipped because the seal in back of flywheel leaked, I looked into it and only option I have seen is a special primary gear and plugging the crank, not easily available now, or a crank replacement along with matching primary gear and flywheel, I didn't want this so just replaced the seal. The actual coil clutch cover on mine was fine.
I have since found out you can have a custom bush made for the primary gear but hopefully mine will hold out ok so no need to go down this route.
If the coil springs did go weak then they are very similar to valve springs so pretty sure you could find something suitable.
Disengagement problems are usually hydraulic problems or wear on the lever and ball and all these parts are readily available.

[surfblue]

Will be stripping it down tomorrow night so may have a better idea then what the problem is. (Love working at clutches on minis!   )

Replaced master & slave cylinders, flexi pipe between them, push rod between slave and clutch arm, plunger, release bearing and clutch friction plate when last had it apart.

Dont actually remember replacing the clutch arm itself, suppose ball end could be worn?

 

Does anyone know off the top of their head what distance the push rod from the slave cylinder should move when operating correctly? - Just to rule out hydraulic problem first.

[mk1leg]

just strip it down and get on with it and take photos for your OCD

[surfblue]

Information is on this link,

http://mk1-performan..._mechanical.htm

But not disengaging doesn't sound like the usual problems with coil spring clutch

 

So spanners out tonight.

Bellhousing off, hoping for something as simple as release bearing but no, it was perfect.

Removed the triangular flange against which the release bearing presses on the coil spring clutches to find the large flywheel securing bolt loose,  (by a couple of threads and easy to turn by hand) the flywheel to crankshaft key a bit chewed up and the lock tab a bit mangled. 

Very strange how it has managed to come loose but explains why clutch not able to fully disengage with the flange pushing against the head of the bolt and ultimately crankshaft rather than moving the pressure plate and clutch plate.

So new key and locktabs ordered, hopefully a cheap and relatively simple fix.

 

(sorry for hijacking your thread 90BHP)