6 replies to this topic

[kart649]

New to this, so sorry if I make mistakes!

I have restored a 1995 Mini Cooper to Mighty Mini spec. The car will start but will run rich and the idle will lower and raise from approx 850 to 1200 rpm then stall. Will keep running with me blipping the throttle. the spark plus will become very sooty.

All vacuum pipes new and checked. has been diagnostically checked with no faults on the code reader. All new sensors and Lambda sensor new. ECU checked and sealed for the race series. Tried two other ECU's. Its running no cat, as per MM spec. A trusted Mini race/tuning company has confirmed the lack of cat is fine.

I have noticed disconnecting the air temp sensor makes no difference. It has 5V at the connector and a continuity test with the sensor carefully over a candle sees continuity decrease with heat.

I started the restoration in 1999 and the car has been in dry storage since 2011. But I am at the same point still. I refuse to give up and want to understand the problem, And then maybe get racing! Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[FlyingScot]

If you have a code reader post up the data and let's have a look. IAT sensor doesn't effect the fuelling so much, it's more a fine tune.

FS

Edited by FlyingScot, 22 June 2016 - 10:25 PM.

[kart649]

I haven't got the code read details to hand. I'll have to call the diagnostics chap. All seemed good. I remember the water temp raising and then falling after we turned the engine off, so assuming the manifold temp sensor is working. The water temp gauge on the dash will rise to just under the black marker and my extra water temp gauge will rise also. If the air temp sensor is not being read by the ecu, then maybe the cat is in 'limp home mode'?? Does the ecu go back to non limp mode if there are no faults registered? O r do I need to disconnect the ecu and restart? I have noticed that I have not fitted the condensor (?) from the distributor to earth.

[Alpenflitzer]

What do you mean by "Condensor"?  First thing to look after if running rich is the Cooling water temperature sensor (CTS). This one is being read by the ECU and correspondingly the ECU signals "cold" oder "warm" and regulates the mixture.

[ryomini]

I presume that you have new spark plugs

and that the valves are correctly gapped

petrol is fresh

air filter is new or in very good condition

timing is correctly set

(that at least elimates some minor issues)

[Aus]

The condenser you refer to is I presume the small capacitor that is bolted under one of the coil bolts ? This is simply a suppressor for the radio to try and eliminate electrical buzz through the speakers, it will make no difference to the running of the car

Edited by Aus, 28 June 2016 - 01:57 PM.

[FlyingScot]

Timing is controlled by MEMS unless the flywheel has been off or the distributor shaft out there is nothing adjust.

FS