12 replies to this topic

[Timcg]

I changed a clicking CV a few years ago so I know what clicking ones sounds like and how to fit them. So when I heard this new noise last week I thought it would be fairly easy to fix...

 

I've now got new CVs on both sides (couldn't decide which side it was coming from) and the clicking is still there. In the past few months I've also replaced the wheel bearings on both sides (had a grinding noise, now fixed) and did the discs and pads while I was under there.

 

So, it's a clicking noise which sounds like a CV has gone. It is particularly bad when turning left, not when turning right. If going straight on and over a speed bump I'll get a click or two. If I'm going slowly, or braking when turning left - no click. I'm 95% certain it's coming from the driver's side, but can't be sure (is it coming from somewhere in the middle?).

 

Any suggestions appreciated.

[tiger99]

How about a quick check, coasting downhill in neutral, engine off, while turning left? It will isolate a fair bit of the drivetrain and may help with diagnosis.

You already seem to have checked the main suspects.

[tiger99]

And another quick thought. Drive with one window down, with a high brick wall on that side to reflect the sound into the car, and make it click. Repeat with the opposite side. Bearing in mind that your head position is well to one side, you may need a friend in the front passenger seat, and compare what you hear. Obviously the click is on the side where it seems loudest.

[Rob Gavin]

a few things;

 

1) Have you replaced the outer CVs with new or good used ones? 

2) how are the inner pot joints?

3) have you checked that its not some sort of contact with the wheel?  the reason I ask is that I had a similar issue and it was the brake pad anti rattle shim catching the wheel weights (10" conversion with 4 pots) which gave a clicking sound. 

[cal844]

When going along, if it starts clicking pull the handbrake on 2 clicks, does it clear?

[sonikk4]

It may pay you to check your wheels. Have you had them balanced recently?? if so its possible the weights are contacting the callipers. If not and you are happy the outer CV's are good then you will need to check the pot joints. They do fail and as they have large ball bearings in them like the outer cv joints then when failing will make a similar noise.

[Timcg]

So, it definitely comes from the driver side. I'm taking the car in tomorrow for two new front tyres, so getting all the geometry sorted too.

Last night while going over everything again I had a single loud click when turning the steering wheel to the left (car parked, dry steering). With the front of the car jacked up there's no movement/play in the wheel, which is good.

Fingers crossed for tomorrow, if not then pot joints I guess :-(

[Dusky]

I had this problem with a pot joint that lost a Ball bearing somehow.

[Timcg]

Bit of an update. Two new front tyres, all tracked up nicely (what a novelty!) and the clicking remains.

I've found that there is some play on the driver side inner cv (pot) joint. The driveshaft sits nicely in the joint, but where the pot bit actually enters the block it moves in and out a couple of mm. The passenger side doesn't at all.

Found the culprit? Although surely it would be noisy all the time, not just when going round corners?

[tiger99]

If it moves in and out the locking clip nay be damaged or broken. That is a cheap and easy fix.

However it often signifies diff failure, which is neither cheap nor easy to fix.

If it is moving laterally (fore and aft) or vertically, or both (ie radial movement of the shaft) it is probably the bush in the diff side cover, but that is usually accompanied by an oil leak.

I suggest having the pot out, stripped, cleaned and examined, before doing too much more. If all balls are present and correct, and there is not severe wear on any component, it can be reassembled and greased with Molybentone CV grease. If there is severe wear such as indentations in the ball tracks, change it.

Then, the next stage is to examine the diff, but I hope it does not come to that.

[Timcg]

Ok, thanks. I'll get the pot joint out tomorrow and see what I can see. This all started after I replaced the wheel bearing and disc/pads, so slightly confused about why the pot joint would start playing up, but who knows.

What sort of noise would failing ball joints make? At least those are at the same end as where I was working

Edited by Timcg, 02 July 2016 - 11:26 PM.

[Timcg]

Just thinking back to everything I was doing prior to this noise starting.

I had real problems splitting the track rod end from the hub. Could I have damaged something there? Bear in mind it's been properly tracked since though.

[tiger99]

Doesn't your noise depend on wheel rotation? That should rule out ball joints and track rod ends. But they are always worth checking. The ball joints must move freely with no more than 2 thou end float. You need to remove the spring from the lower joint to check, unfortunately.

It is remotely possible that the use of hammers to shift a taper could have done a mischief to something, such as hub bearings, but I don't think it will be that. But have a good feel for free play anywhere, steering rack inner ends for instance. When the problem is obscure you can only check the obvious, then the less obvious.

A bit of debris inside a tyre or hub cap might explain things, but I think you will have accounted for these already.