11 replies to this topic

[redhouse53]

So I've stripped down my engine and seperated it from the gearbox so I can fit new seals gaskets etc and stop some oil leaks, It's gone from this, to this. I've etch primed it, then given it a couple of coats of zinc yellow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ok, so before I re-assemble it, the Haynes manual describes building the engine up then attaching it to the gearbox. Is this the best way or can I bolt up the stripped engine to the g/box casing, then bolt on the engine ancillaries?

[nicklouse]

I am concerned that you have not plugged the oil pressure port. A lot harder to clean out than the dipstick hole.

[nicklouse]

Starter and alternator can be fitted when the engine is in the car.

Dizzy easier to set timing when out.

I would just clean and assemble from where you are now.

[Spider]

I'd suggest it's easier to handle smaller, lighter parts then fewer heavier lumps.

 

If it were me, I'd remove the head studs from the block and turn the block up-side-down on to some soft clean cardboard, then fit the gearbox to it. Then turn it back over again and fit the head.

 

You should be able to build the engine from there, complete, with Starter Motor, Alternator, Fan, Radiator, Fuel Pump, Stock Manifold (no carb though) though you may want to leave the dissy out (I leave them in) to give yourself some swinging room.

 

As you are lower it in to the engine bay, hook up the speedo cable while it's high up, then lower it in.

[ryomini]

Have you watched Sollis' DVD ?

[tiger99]

I would attach manifolds in the car. Most times I have left the carb on the manifold unless they needed separating for some reason, then just pop the assembly back on. Even if I have timed it, I leave the distributor cap off, just another thing to break if left on. I prefer the starter on, alternator off. But that is just me. It rather depends on the size of your hands and what areas you find difficult to work in. But ALWAYS connect the speedo cable before fully lowering the assembled power plant. You only make that sort of mistake once...

[Cooperman]

We all have our preferred sequence and one is not necessarily better than another.
I usually build it up with everything on it, but not always. Sometimes I fit the manifolds, carb(s) and rad after putting the engine into the car.
The only thing I never do is remove and refit the engine & sub-frame as a sub-assembly. I did that once in 1969- never again!

[Cooperman]

We all have our preferred sequence and one is not necessarily better than another.
I usually build it up with everything on it, but not always. Sometimes I fit the manifolds, carb(s) and rad after putting the engine into the car.
The only thing I never do is remove and refit the engine & sub-frame as a sub-assembly. I did that once in 1969- never again!

[AlexMozza]

We all have our preferred sequence and one is not necessarily better than another.
I usually build it up with everything on it, but not always. Sometimes I fit the manifolds, carb(s) and rad after putting the engine into the car.
The only thing I never do is remove and refit the engine & sub-frame as a sub-assembly. I did that once in 1969- never again!

On rod change systems, I tend to take the engine out with a crane. But with direct and remote I drop the front subframe, much easier I think!

[redhouse53]

thanks guy's that's great. If you ever find you need to fit a Beetle engine I'm you'r man, but with mini's I'm still learning!

[MIGLIACARS]

We all have our preferred sequence and one is not necessarily better than another.
I usually build it up with everything on it, but not always. Sometimes I fit the manifolds, carb(s) and rad after putting the engine into the car.
The only thing I never do is remove and refit the engine & sub-frame as a sub-assembly. I did that once in 1969- never again!

Ive always removed the engine from the top,  But the other month I took some sh tty advice and decided on my own to drop the subframe and engine out the bottom.

easy as that....

well no not easy at all,

all was going to plan until i lifted the car/shell up and over the engine.as i got it to shoulder height struggling my t ts off i realized I had to walk it over the engine and sub frame,  how is this possible   its not!!!!

 

At this point there is no return and the shell just gets heavier and heavier, then a sense of panic sets in as you run out of strength and energy,,, omg this isnt an easy way at all.

quick pull to the side,   but dont drop it..... but help me its so heavy and if i bend my back to put it down ahhhhhh....

wont be doing that on my own EVER again.

[Spider]

Like Cooperman, I did drop it out the bottom - once and never again.

 

It does depend on what you have to work with and maybe with a purpose built engine / subframe trolley and a vehicle hoist, coming out the bottom might be easier, but it only takes me around 20 - 30 minutes to get them out the top and no brakes to re-bleed.