16 replies to this topic

[stef]

hey, been having some electrical problems, and need to sort it in time for the mot. a few days ago my hazards stopped working. then my right directional indicator stopped working. i could stil hear it clicking, but no lights came on. i replaced the inline fuse for the hazards, and it all worked again. then the fuse blew again, so was replaced. originally it had a 25amp. haynes says it should be 15. which should i be putting in?

then, whenever i used the hazards it would make my indicators go crazy, and sometimes the right one would work, sometimes it wouldnt. the left indicator has always worked though, no matter what fuse blows. i've replaced both flashers, no change, i've put a jumper over the plug on the back of the hazard switch, with no change. i checked the wiring by the indicator stalk, it seemed fine.

now, i dont use the hazards in fear of it buggering it all up again, but the indicator sometimes stops working. when it clicks, the light in the rear heated window switch dims and lights if this switch is on.

most of the time they work now, but as i said i havent tried using the hazards. the left indicator speed is fine, but the right one is very fast, way too fast.

anyone have any ideas on how i can get it to slow down, and maybe what wiring i should be looking at, or what to replace?

its probably really confusing to read, which i apologise for.

stef

[AlexM]

I just checked my haynes and if it is a four-fuse fusblock and a 'later model' then for the line fuse for the hazards and indicators (and interior light) it should be 10amp.

I replaced all my fuses when i had electrical problems, most of them were the wrong ratings.

this may help

[Gizzum]

I had the same problem for a while until I replaced the old relays with a new style relay and rewired the :xxx:s! No problems anymore, except that I can turn my indicators on without the ignition being turned on. A simple one to fix though once I can be bothered!

If you want I can do you a wiring diag and pics?

[stef]

ok, i'll check the fuse again tomorrow.

when you say new style relay, what do u mean? a wiring diagram would be pretty cool, anything that helps solve it really. are you sure i'd need to re wire?

stef

[taffy1967]

Well here's a complete list of the fuses & in-line fuses for most post 1976 Mini's before the 1996 MPi/Twin Point models.

Standard 4 fuse box mounted on the bulkhead:-


1 1-2 35amp Brake Lights, Reverse Lights, Direction Indicators & Rear Screen Demister.

2 3-4 25amp Horn, Headlamp Flasher, Brake Failure Circuit & Radio Memory.

3 5-6 25amp Heated Blower Motor, Windscreen Wipers, Washer Motor & Instruments.

4 7-8 15amp Side & Tail Lights, Panel Lights & Instruments.


1-2 These circuits only operate with the ignition switch at position "II".

5-6 These circuits only operate with the ignition switch at position "I" or "II".


I compared the above with my own handbook relating to my 1990 (Mainstream) Rover Mini Cooper 1.3 fitted with a carb (pre injection) and the latest Haynes manual which covers all Mini models and the only thing I could find confusion with was in the Haynes manual it states that on later models fitted with the 4 fuse box (probably injection models?) both 1-2 & 7-8 circuits operate the headlight dim-dip relay, surely a mistake?


Ok now the 4 In-Line Fuses, luckily the wire colours are highlighted in my own manual (they aren't in the Haynes) and they should also relate to other later Mini models too? But the 15amp - Blue/Red Wire for the Auxiliary Cooling Fan only got fitted to Mini Coopers from 1990 and all 1.3 Mini models from 1992 onwards I believe?


In-Line Fuses situated behind air-filter on the bulkhead:-


15amp - Purple/Orange Wire
Hazard Warning & Interior Lamps


15amp - Brown/Orange Wire
Dim-Dip Lighting


10amp - Blue/Orange Wire
Rear Fog Guard Lamps


15amp - Blue/Red Wire
Auxiliary Cooling Fan (where fitted)

Hope that helps?

Also when the one side is flashing faster, have you checked that all the bulbs are flashing on that side? Because if one bulb has blown or is playing up because of a bad connection, that will cause the flashing speed to increase.

[stef]

right so it should be 15amp.... i hope. all bulbs were flashing, i'll have to check again tomorrow. if it helps at all, sometimes it flashed nearer normal speed, but mostly too fast. also, the indicators seem to be affected by the engine speed.

e.g, if i start up and its at low idle and i put the indicator on, its very slow, im assuming because of the lack of charge form the alternator at startup. but im sure that this did not happen before.

stef.

[taffy1967]

Yes they sound quite normal to me and over the years the indicator speed on my indicators has slowed down a bit and is very slow at lower revs.

Sometimes a fully charged or new battery can help, or perhaps your alternator needs an overhaul, but to be honest so long as they do work and you don't get an MOT fail, then I wouldn't worry to much about them really.

[stef]

well funny you say as long as they work, went for a drive tonight and the right ones stopped again. it worked to start with, and all the bulbs flashed. then it buggered again, im still getting the click, but no bulbs flash whatsoever. somethigns wrong though, because when it clicks, the headlights dim as well.

so i'm assuming its drawing a lot of current from somewhere, but not putting it through to the bulbs? god knows. this sucks.

plus, even if i stick my arm out the window to let everone know im indicating right, people just think im some crazy man flailing my arm around in a yellow mini.

stef

[clarks.2006]

This is the exact same problem i am having im going to try re-wiring a block of connections i found bodged from someone who had the car before me, then see if this cures my problem. Even same side indicator not working lol.

[Guess-Works.com]

1 1-2 35amp Brake Lights, Reverse Lights, Direction Indicators & Rear Screen Demister.

2 3-4 25amp Horn, Headlamp Flasher, Brake Failure Circuit & Radio Memory.

3 5-6 25amp Heated Blower Motor, Windscreen Wipers, Washer Motor & Instruments.

4 7-8 15amp Side & Tail Lights, Panel Lights & Instruments.


1-2 These circuits only operate with the ignition switch at position "II".

5-6 These circuits only operate with the ignition switch at position "I" or "II".

Correction.... Fuse 2 as described above is permanent live, independant of ignition.

in relation to the problem, these are the sort of effects when there's earth leaks, bad earths and bad connections, independant circuits start getting low current feeds from other circuits... Only way to solve is to get a multi meter and check each circuit...

Had a similar problem on a mates which we were sorting yesterday, eventually turned out to be the earth line to one of the headlights had oxidised so much it was causing a high resistance and playing havoc with the entire lighting circuit

[taffy1967]

Correction.... Fuse 2 as described above is permanent live, independant of ignition.

Well to be honest I was just quoting whats written in my handbook and haynes manual.

[stef]

i thought the only thing left was the wiring, and as it keeps blowing the hazard fuse it sounds right.

been reading the haynes wiring diagram, bit confusing. i dont suppose theres a guide anywhere as to where i should be putting my multimeter and where the earths are on the car?

i dont have a clue where to start,

cheers,
Stef

Edited by stef, 06 September 2006 - 04:26 PM.

[stef]

as an update, i cleaned up the headlight earth connections by the grille, and replaced the earth wiring on the front right indicator, as well as checking the side repeater which seemed ok. no change of course. now everytime i put the hazard switch on, it blows the fuse straight away now, no matter what fuse i use (10,15,20,25 amp) the wire going to the loom through the bulkhead towards the dash is the one thats getting really hot, to the point that the connection has melted itself to the plastic fuse holder. its a brown wire (maybe orange) but i cant find it from inside the car so i don't know where it goes.

anyone know what could be causing this?

ive just looked at the wiring diagram on haynes (12A:35 if this is the right one) and it says the brown wire from the fuse goes to the ignition/start switch, as well as the starter motor solenoid. which i guess makes sense as its an always on circuit. the ignition/start switch wire should be under the ignition barrel right?

as far as i can guess, there must be something wrong with these wires?

so this would fix the hazard probelm. then its just indicators, which i cant understand.

this is all probably very confusing, sorry im just depserately trying to sort it, having no right hand indicator is actually a lot of hassle in my area.

stef

Edited by stef, 06 September 2006 - 04:35 PM.

[DYO776C]

as an update, i cleaned up the headlight earth connections by the grille, and replaced the earth wiring on the front right indicator, as well as checking the side repeater which seemed ok. no change of course. now everytime i put the hazard switch on, it blows the fuse straight away now, no matter what fuse i use (10,15,20,25 amp) the wire going to the loom through the bulkhead towards the dash is the one thats getting really hot, to the point that the connection has melted itself to the plastic fuse holder. its a brown wire (maybe orange) but i cant find it from inside the car so i don't know where it goes.

anyone know what could be causing this?

ive just looked at the wiring diagram on haynes (12A:35 if this is the right one) and it says the brown wire from the fuse goes to the ignition/start switch, as well as the starter motor solenoid. which i guess makes sense as its an always on circuit. the ignition/start switch wire should be under the ignition barrel right?

as far as i can guess, there must be something wrong with these wires?

so this would fix the hazard probelm. then its just indicators, which i cant understand.

this is all probably very confusing, sorry im just depserately trying to sort it, having no right hand indicator is actually a lot of hassle in my area.

stef

I think you should be looking for a short to earth on one of the indicator lams/wiring, as when the emergency flasher is used, *ALL* of the indicator lamps (including side repeaters) are supplied with power.

Looking back, you seemed to say that one side on the normal flasher has a problem also. You should start looking there. The fact that the wiring is getting hot proves that there is a short somewhere on the lamp side of the fuse, and cable.

[stef]

well ive looked for earth shorts on all the lamps. and i cant find any by looking, i dont know how to use a multimeter on it, although i do have one. like i said i replaced the front one anyway because it looked a bit crappy. plus the fact that when the hazards work, they all work, proves that its not to do with the lamps surely. otherwise they wouldnt work when the hazards were on.

as for getting hot, i know for a fact its the side that goes to the starter motor and ignition. but i looked at the wires and they all seem fine. its putting too much power through the fuse, hence it blowing constantly

Edited by stef, 06 September 2006 - 06:32 PM.