17 replies to this topic

[pusb]

I have recently replaced my old engine with a low mileage 1275 engine. The engine was running fine in the old car, so there shouldn't be anything wrong with it.

 

I fitted it about 6 weeks ago (it last ran about 4 months ago), but I was also waiting for a new wiring loom to come through so I couldn't start it. Yesterday I received the loom, and fitted it. It was late by the time I finished, so I thought I would just turn the engine over to check it had good oil pressure, then I could proceed to actually start it this morning.

 

So turned it over last night for about 15 seconds, and the oil light went out and the pressure gauge went up to about 60 psi, so I thought it was all good to go this morning.

 

Went back to it today, thought I will just spin it over again before starting to make sure. Today it has zero oil pressure. I have tried so much today that the battery was starting to go flat. I have followed the procedure for priming the pump (put oil down the pipe hole), and as far as I can tell the pump is primed. As when I moved the car in gear with the pipe removed, oil was gushing out.

 

So what else can I check? Is it likely that both my oil light and gauge have failed? After spending all day on it, I really don't know what else I can do now.

[nicklouse]

stuck pressure relive valve.

[Steve220]

I take it you've checked the oil level again?

[pusb]

I take it you've checked the oil level again?

 

Yep, in fact with all this oil I've tipped down the pipe hole, its probably slightly too high now.

[pusb]

stuck pressure relive valve.

 

Would that describe the symptoms then? Good oil pressure at first start up attempt, then nothing after?

 

Do you know if the valves the same on both A+ and A series? As I could nick the one out of my old engine if they were..

[ukcooper]

How long was the engine sitting before you fitted it, could be fully of old oil stuck in place.

[pusb]

How long was the engine sitting before you fitted it, could be fully of old oil stuck in place.

 

I think about a month, maybe 2. Nothing drastic really.

 

It had a head gasket change and timing cover gasket when I bought it if that could affect anything?

[ukcooper]

Step 1 Remove the spark plugs from the engine and put transmission into fourth gear.

Step 2 Remove the banjo fitting (large bolt) or oil cooler hose that goes into the block at the upper end of the external metal oil pipe that passes behind the distributor. Then loosen the other end of the pipe at the oil filter housing, and swing the pipe away from block .

Step 3 Using a small funnel, start to put oil into the block at the threaded hole where the banjo bolt was removed at the upper end of the metal oil pipe. While putting the oil in the block, push the car backwards. Even though it is still in 4th gear, it will be easy to push with no engine compression. This action will draw the oil into the block and directly into the oil pump to prime it. Repeat this action a few times and then replace the banjo bolt and tighten both ends of the oil pipe, using fresh copper washers (AED0172) at the banjo bolt end.

Step 4 Take the car out of gear and make sure it is in neutral. If the oil level is satisfactory on the dip stick, you can now start to crank the motor over to achieve oil pressure. When you see signs of oil pressure either by the gauge moving or the light going out, you can stop, put the spark plugs back in, and reconnect the ignition wires.If you don't have an indication of oil pressure after 30 seconds of cranking, check all the fittings that had been loosened to make sure they are tight. Try again until you have pressure.

Step 5 Once you know you have oil pressure again, start the motor. We like to see close to 90 PSI at the gauge when first starting the motor cold. As the engine temp goes up we like to have 40 PSI minimum at idle and somewhere near 70 PSI at 3,000 RPM and higher. These are just guidelines and are ideal settings for a fresh engine.

[pusb]

Step 1 Remove the spark plugs from the engine and put transmission into fourth gear.

Step 2 Remove the banjo fitting (large bolt) or oil cooler hose that goes into the block at the upper end of the external metal oil pipe that passes behind the distributor. Then loosen the other end of the pipe at the oil filter housing, and swing the pipe away from block .

Step 3 Using a small funnel, start to put oil into the block at the threaded hole where the banjo bolt was removed at the upper end of the metal oil pipe. While putting the oil in the block, push the car backwards. Even though it is still in 4th gear, it will be easy to push with no engine compression. This action will draw the oil into the block and directly into the oil pump to prime it. Repeat this action a few times and then replace the banjo bolt and tighten both ends of the oil pipe, using fresh copper washers (AED0172) at the banjo bolt end.

Step 4 Take the car out of gear and make sure it is in neutral. If the oil level is satisfactory on the dip stick, you can now start to crank the motor over to achieve oil pressure. When you see signs of oil pressure either by the gauge moving or the light going out, you can stop, put the spark plugs back in, and reconnect the ignition wires.If you don't have an indication of oil pressure after 30 seconds of cranking, check all the fittings that had been loosened to make sure they are tight. Try again until you have pressure.

Step 5 Once you know you have oil pressure again, start the motor. We like to see close to 90 PSI at the gauge when first starting the motor cold. As the engine temp goes up we like to have 40 PSI minimum at idle and somewhere near 70 PSI at 3,000 RPM and higher. These are just guidelines and are ideal settings for a fresh engine.

 

I've tried that a few times, still doesn't seem to do anything. Although I am struggling to turn the engine over for more than 15 seconds before the battery goes flat, so I might put it on charge and try again tomorrow.

[Steve220]

Remove the cap for the pressure release valve and gently push down on the plug, or see if there's oil behind it. I think this is the area that maybe the issue.

[Dusky]

90 psi is definately not standard. Pressure relief valve should, for safety open at 70-75 psi.
Too high oil pressure can pop the oil drilling bungs out.

[Cooperman]

I agree with 'Nick...' that it sounds like a stuck oil pressure relief valve.

 

The lack of pressure on a 2nd hand engine can be very worrying which is one reason why a lot of us will never, ever, fit a used engine without first stripping it and renewing big-end, main and thrust bearings, oil pump and timing chain. It is such a pain if there is anything wrong and it all has to come out again. 

[pusb]

I agree with 'Nick...' that it sounds like a stuck oil pressure relief valve.

 

The lack of pressure on a 2nd hand engine can be very worrying which is one reason why a lot of us will never, ever, fit a used engine without first stripping it and renewing big-end, main and thrust bearings, oil pump and timing chain. It is such a pain if there is anything wrong and it all has to come out again. 

 

The concern is at the back of my mind that it is a dud engine, however the fact that I had oil pressure at the first attempt of starting is the one bit of hope I am clinging on to at the moment!

[Cooperman]

What has probably happened is a bit of 'DGS' has gone into the relief valve and is preventing it from fully closing. The oil pressure then cannot build up and is likely to hover around 10 psi when cold, increasing as the revs increase. Many of us have had that problem, especially with new engines (although I appreciate yours is not new).

Check the valve before doing anything else. if it is not the valve and won't re-prime, it will mean the engine out I'm afraid.

[pusb]

What has probably happened is a bit of 'DGS' has gone into the relief valve and is preventing it from fully closing. The oil pressure then cannot build up and is likely to hover around 10 psi when cold, increasing as the revs increase. Many of us have had that problem, especially with new engines (although I appreciate yours is not new).

Check the valve before doing anything else. if it is not the valve and won't re-prime, it will mean the engine out I'm afraid.

 

Thanks :)

 

What is DGS?