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Auto Box Refurb


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#1 jime17

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Posted 10 July 2016 - 07:58 PM

Hi all, hope you are well....

I asked something along these lines about 2 years ago and got some helpful responses, but thought I'd ask again as I'm hoping to get the old girl on the road again soon and members come and go on here so there might be someone now with experience of this.... Hope no-one minds.

I have a 1990 998 auto.

I need to take out the engine to deal with a broken piston ring, so was thinking I might be able to freshen up the auto box whilst it's out.

When it was last driven 2 years ago the gearbox worked ok. It flared a bit between 3/4 when cold and when hot in traffic or from motorway driving it tended to screech and clunk when pulling away in D (or when selecting 1 manually). This stops when the temp drops down to normal driving temps.

What can realistically be checked/changed/de-gunged by me (a competent diy mechanic, but not an expert) while the whole things out of the car and the engine and transmission are split that will stop the issues described and increase the longevity?

Ps I know I mustn't remove the 3 bolts in the torque converter.

Thanks ladies and gents...

Jim

#2 Albannach

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Posted 10 July 2016 - 08:55 PM

Sounds like your internal Clutch Drive Plates, or Bands are past their best. You do know you MUST change the oil every 2,000 miles with AP2 Boxes? It's been my experience that once you get around 40 to 50,000 miles on the clock they are needing refreshed.
Personally, I prefer the 1275 setup with the Park option which was available from 1990 onwards. It costs around £160 for a Rebuild Kit from Jpat in Somerset. Some people fit an extra Friction Plate for added drive, but this entails machining a few thou off the Drive Plates for clearance.
If required I have a 1275 engine and box sitting on my garage floor, complete with Shift Cable and Console. It was running ok when removed from a '97, which I changed to manual. I'm having a big garage clearance so this is past its sale by date.
There is also The Automatic Mini Forum for helpful advice on AP2 problems.

#3 jime17

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Posted 10 July 2016 - 10:00 PM

Thanks for that. It's done 70000 so looks like some work is due. I'd not be looking to have machining done so just looking to replace like parts for like rather than the additional clutch plate. There's a guide for that on an American site for the Austin America incidentally. The upgrades look beyond my abilities and equipment.

Would transplanting a 97 not cause issues being that it is fuel injected and has an ecu etc?

Ps. I find the auto mini register a bit quiet so thought I'd check again here first.

Edited by jime17, 10 July 2016 - 10:02 PM.


#4 limby2000

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Posted 12 July 2016 - 05:32 AM

Yep ,over 50,000 and you,ve done good. The later 1275 box is a far superior box as it has 3x friction plates in both its clutch packs. The only difference you will find is the diff will be a higher ratio (although you can change over) and the front subby is a different shape (cut out) although you can get around this by fitting front cover after fitting gearbox. If the price is right get the 1275 box.

#5 jime17

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Posted 12 July 2016 - 10:36 AM

Thanks. Is worth considering then if the engine and box are good. I'd like too keep it auto. There's Not many left.

#6 MRA

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Posted 13 July 2016 - 12:41 AM

Hi all, hope you are well....

I asked something along these lines about 2 years ago and got some helpful responses, but thought I'd ask again as I'm hoping to get the old girl on the road again soon and members come and go on here so there might be someone now with experience of this.... Hope no-one minds.

I have a 1990 998 auto.

I need to take out the engine to deal with a broken piston ring, so was thinking I might be able to freshen up the auto box whilst it's out.

When it was last driven 2 years ago the gearbox worked ok. It flared a bit between 3/4 when cold and when hot in traffic or from motorway driving it tended to screech and clunk when pulling away in D (or when selecting 1 manually). This stops when the temp drops down to normal driving temps.

What can realistically be checked/changed/de-gunged by me (a competent diy mechanic, but not an expert) while the whole things out of the car and the engine and transmission are split that will stop the issues described and increase the longevity?

Ps I know I mustn't remove the 3 bolts in the torque converter.

Thanks ladies and gents...

Jim

 

Flaring 3 to 4 can be caused by several different issues, main on the list and first one to check is, have you got the correct oil grade ?  it should be 10W40, once checked and you oil level checked (use the correct method for auto A series)  A rebuild kit is not £160 from anyone anymore, a gasket and seal kit maybe but if you want a master kit you will need 3 bands and up to 6 plates 3 steels etc.... 

I manufacture AP2 parts and tooling, I carry large stocks in house and can also re-manufacture your AP2 unit no matter which version it is.
 



#7 jime17

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Posted 13 July 2016 - 06:42 AM

Hi Martin. Thanks for that. It's always had 10w40 since I've owned it and I check the level using the method you had on your old site. What do you think the issue is with the screech/clunk when hot? It stops again when it's cooled after a few minutes of normal driving.

Are all the band's, plates and seals etc replaceable with the engine out as a diy job or is it a job that requires specialized tools and equipment?

Good to see you back by the way. I've been off this site for a while but you'd been away for a while back then. ....

We need all the auto experts we can get. They're thin on the ground.

Thanks to all for your help so far.

#8 MRA

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Posted 26 July 2016 - 10:31 AM

Hi Jim,

 

A 97 transplant is fine to use, as it is simply an SPi / MPi cross and shouldn't pose any issues or you could simply fit all the ECU etc and get an even smoother Mini.

 

Bands, seals, gaskets, clutch plates, steels, and the 1275 forward retainer plate that often ends up in 20 pieces are all replaceable and generally in stock as well.

 

DIY AP2 rebuilds are getting easier because of all the knowledge available in the public forum.

 

I also make AP2 tools for stripping and rebuilding the Automatic unit



#9 MRA

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Posted 26 July 2016 - 10:32 AM

Just making the CI (cast iron) sealing rings for both early and late forward clutch, as they are now out of stock, my new ones will be available this week if they come back from heat treatment on time.






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