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Stalling Under Load & Erratic Idle


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#1 Midas Mk1

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Posted 24 July 2016 - 09:21 PM

Hey All,

 

Thought I'd start a new thread to help show the issues / what i've done to try and resolve my issues.

 

 

Started off with a fresh stg 4 1380, hif44, 276, 1.5's, aldon yellow & ignitor, ran in, then dyno'd and setup, ran perfect.

 

Got home, changed the plugs for 7's from 6's, and new braided fuel hose to the carb,  ran with a slight splutter, mis-fire ish, lumpier than normal idle.

 

Left for a week, refused to move under load, misfiring, spluttering, no power. Took the engine apart to find the oil pump slot slightly too long, causing the camshaft end float to tighten up, putting strain on the timing belt, and causing cam timing scatter, as the belt drive holes had oval-ised.

New cam, followers, duplex fitted, timed up etc.

 

 

Engine fully built back up, and wouldn't run properly, mis-firing and spluttering. Static idle changed from 8-12 deg with no change.

 

 

 

 

Fitted a replacement ignitor, and seemed to clear the mis-fire without driving, was then able to run the new cam in. The idle wasn't as smooth as i'd expect from the 276, (had an sw10 previously). Went to set off off the drive, instantly wanted to die, and cut out, with little load, now won't idle nicely and wants to die (see video attached). I moved about 2 metres before stalling under load.

 

 

Now, when I start, it starts first time on the button, yet feel mis-firy / not happy, revs clean above 1500, but below 1500 wants to die, even with the idle screw turned up. 

Worryingly, theres a slight white /blue haze when revving, giving a petrol / oily smell. Plug are black, but then it's been on choke and not driven. 

Once it dies, it's very hard to get it started again.

 

I've fitted replacement :

 

Plugs

Leads

Rotor Arm

Cap

Coil

Ignitor

Extra earths

Checked i'm getting 12v at coil

Reseated LCB and Carb for air leaks

Spare dizzy gave even worse idle

My gut feeling it's timing related, but we've followed the same steps we normally take, with the rotor pointing to 1 at tdc etc.

 

Not sure what to do next, so looking for advice? This whole process has gone on for 2 months now, and I need my Mini in a few weeks, stressing it's just not going to be ready, best laid plans and all that! >_<

I've got a spare hif44 off an mg metro somewhere, that I could fit to a spare inlet and try to see if thats any difference. 

 

Could the dizzy just suddenly break down? The R/R operator questioned the quality of recent aldon units..

Stumped, as nothing really physical has changed, any help / pointers  for the next steps would be greatly appreciated, we're out of ideas now.

 

 

Thanks

 

Sam

 

Video Link:

13839583_278858099146775_1784667447_n.mp4


Edited by Midas Mk1, 24 July 2016 - 09:23 PM.


#2 sledgehammer

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Posted 24 July 2016 - 09:54 PM

I've no idea - but start with the simple cheap things - 

 

air leak - esp manifold or split vent pipe etc - poor idle indicates a possible air leak - fine when manifold vacuum is lower at higher revs

 

oil level in dash pot / type of oil - dash piston moves freely ?

 

fuel bad - water / dirt in it

 

new lead / coil breaking down - run engine in the dark - electrical break down usually happens at higher revs (not always the case)

 

best of luck



#3 Midas Mk1

Midas Mk1

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Posted 14 August 2016 - 07:03 PM

A slow reply to this thread, not been able to get time on it, however today had a good go!

 

Set the idle to 4k, and set the timing to 31 degs (as per the r/r setup), lowered the idle right down, and its now sounding alot healthier, and very much smoother on idle and the rev range, strange!

 

However... in doing so, the car is now smoking white smoke out, on idle and revs & load. We fitted new stem seals (MPi) type when we had the engine out, and the vale guides seemed ok, to brilliant.

 

Done a compression test, and 15bar across all 4, so i'm guessing this could be the valve guides? 

 

It's an offset 37/32 head, hoping this won't be any trickier to sort? Does anyone have any recommendations for the North West to get the valve guides pushed in and reamed? Can old valves be re-used or are new ones required? Looking on swiftune I can get all the parts I need, it's just finding a local machine shop I can trust with the head, got a week to sort it before the East Anglian Job i'm going to..

 

 

Currrently uploading a video of said smoke..  :mmkay:  :ermm:


Edited by Midas Mk1, 14 August 2016 - 07:03 PM.





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