11 replies to this topic

[steveday]

Hi All,

 

My first real post on here, see my introduction here http://www.theminifo...c/319351-hello/ for the back story on the car, which might shed some light on why we're even bothering :)

 

Yesterday was the first day we had to really start poking around underneath, lifting the seats and carpets etc to get an idea of how much welding we're going to need to do. From looking at the various projects and stickied threads on here, it seems like its quite bad, but by no means the worst shell that anyone's ever tried to restore. Especially given that it's previous life was as a daily driver in a salty seaside town in Cornwall.

 

However, this isn't my or my able helper's area of expertise, (Dad's a great mechanic, but not a very good welder), so I was hoping you kind folks would offer some opinion on where to start with this project?

 

Here are some photos:

 

The visible wheel arch in the back is pretty crusty, along with the subframe mounting. (We already know it needs a new rear subframe).

 

 DSC03543.jpg   50.67K   58 downloads

 

The boot floor itself is only slightly better:

 

 DSC03544.jpg   77.8K   50 downloads

 

It looks like it's had oversills fitted, and they're now basically rusting off both sides:

 

 DSC03546.jpg   66.49K   54 downloads

 

 DSC03555.jpg   45.36K   42 downloads

 

Inside it's not a whole lot better, with some pretty substantial rust coming in from the sills, and a chequered history of old plates and patches all over the floor (my camera has made it look a lot more "orange" than it really is, but I guess a bit of digital exaggeration doesn't hurt here):

 

 DSC03562.jpg   91.12K   47 downloads

 

The d/s seat hinge and bracket closest to the tunnel are loose, looking like they've been patched up in the past:

 

 DSC03573.jpg   105.95K   28 downloads

 

Likewise it's got a gap between the floor pan and the cross-member that I can fit my fingers into:

 

 DSC03567.jpg   66.61K   34 downloads

 

In the back things aren't much better, with plenty of flakes in the bottom of the bins, and a few holes where they join onto the floor too.

 

 DSC03578.jpg   76.05K   39 downloads

 

For some good news, up top it's not so bad, with some rust in the gutters, but not much else, since the previous owners replaced quite a few panels and did a respray a few years ago.

 

So, our question is now basically what's the best way of tackling this level of corrosion? I've been pouring over the various diagrams of replacement panels on mini-spares, but since we're going to get someone else to do the actual welding work, we're wondering whether it would be a better idea to just replace the whole floor completely? Seems like it would require a similar level of prep work, bracing, etc but perhaps less fiddly cutting and welding back of all the pieces?

 

If we do that, where do we stop? I'd guess we need a new boot floor and possibly the wheel arches too, but what else do we need to be thinking about? We're not looking to get it to concours condition, just solid, drive-able and hopefully not needing to go through this process again any time soon!

 

Finally, presumably the best (i.e. cheapest) way to do this is going to be for us to strip it down to the shell and then take it somewhere, any recommendations for good places, either in the Forest of Dean (where it is now), or Mid Devon (where I am)? What about any ballpark ideas of what I'd hope to pay for that? Or is it going to be so eye-wateringly expensive I should be looking at a mig welding course instead? (Dad has the kit already, just not the confidence to do structural stuff).

 

Many thanks in advance!

Edited by steveday, 01 August 2016 - 10:27 AM.

[dyshipfakta]

If it were me as I'm lazy I think I would be seeking a project in better Nick to begin with and move yours on to someone who can do that work themselves. In my opinion to pay to have that restored is going to be huge. needs full floor, full boot and arches, rear valance and closers, flitch repairs at least door steps may look ok but I would bet they are shot.
Much better shells with documents don't go for much money really and gives you a massive headstart. Just keep the bits that make your car what it is to you.

Damn just read the back story... I would suggest getting your mig welder out and start practicing.

Edited by dyshipfakta, 01 August 2016 - 11:00 AM.

[sonikk4]

I think you need to budget for inner sills up to first flute. Or you can buy the combination inner sill and outer sill from M Machine

 

Heelboard ends will be bad so either buy the complete panel or just the ends.

 

Complete boot floor.

 

BUT just going back through those pictures if the floor pans all round have dodgy repairs, rusty etc then it may pay you to replace the complete floor in one go. This can be bought as a bare unit or a complete setup including heelboard.

 

Wheel arches, including front closeout panels.

Rear subframe mounting brackets.

 

This could be the tip of the iceberg and very expensive to get somebody to replace it all. Now if your dad has a Mig welder then get some 0.9mm steel plate and practise, then practise some more. It will be cheaper in the long run.

 

Oh and pay a fiver to become a TMF+ member and you then get access to discounts which will lessen the pain.

[steveday]

Oh and pay a fiver to become a TMF+ member and you then get access to discounts which will lessen the pain.

 

Done! I think I've got my fiver's worth from this forum already :)

[slidehammer]

I am currently in the process of fitting M-Machine half floors with outer sills and jacking points and it is a lot more fiddly than I thought it would be (separating the floor from the heal board and the inner seal from the companion bin heal board. I think if I were doing it again I would go from a complete floor and remove the companion bins first. As Neil said dig out the mig and practice, practice, practice. Great story so the car has to be saved.

[danm]

This boils down to two things:

 

1) That needs a lot of new metal. Fact. If money and time is no issue, get going and be prepared for a lot of hard work.

 

2) After the amount of new metal needed; it boils down to asking yourself how much of the original car is left for sentimental purposes. Is it worth it? For what is left after what you remove the rot, it is surely easier to do what most do not speak of...

[Tupers]

I did half floors and a heel board on my '67 Mini as a full MK1 floor is rather pricey but for a 1980 Mini you might be better off with a full floor pan. 

 

 

Personally I would use the Heritage SPI floor pan from Mini Spares. Clicky

It has some differences from your floor as an SPI/MPI has multiple fuel lines and deeper flutes for hiding the wiring loom but will fit just the same. The panel its self is around £70 more than two half floors but as I see it that's better than the labour to trim and fit two individual floor panels. 

You'll also need a subframe mounting panel, jacking points, outer sills, sill closing panels and seat crossmember to complete the floor which will run you about £400. 

 

The boot floor also looks like it would benefit from being replaced entirely in which case you will also need a valance, front and rear closing panels as said above. 

[GT Jimmy]

I think you will need to learn to weld, if your dad's a decent mechanic you have a head start with getting it back on the road. Look at some of the projects on here, they've inspired me to tear into mine. Good luck

[Connor_B]

It looks bad, but no worse than mine was when I got hold of it it ended up taking me and my dad about 9 months on and off work to get the shell really solid, and neither of us were accomplished welders. if i could give you one piece of advice it would be to learn to weld it will pay some serious dividends down the line and will save you an enormous amount of money.

[Cooperman]

With classic car bodywork you either need to be able to do most of it yourself , maybe not necessarily the final painting, or have a big cheque book and deep pockets.

It is easy for the bodywork to take up to 50+ hours all at, say, £40 per hour, plus materials with a further £100+ for re-painting.

Like many of us who own one or more classic cars, we wouldn't be able to afford them if we did not have the skills and tools to do the bodywork as well as the mechanical work ourselves.

To re-build a Mini bodyshell with the usual rusty areas can easily cost £4000+ and when finished and added to the cost of mechanical restoration it is often not a viable proposition, unless it is, say, a Mk.1 or Mk.2.

[Daz1968]

I went with a full floor assembly and don't regret it one bit, it's been the easiest restoration I have ever done. Once full jigged floor is in everything else literally drops into place. If I had gone half floors I would still needed cross member, tunnel and heel board so seemed the logical way to go.

[steveday]

Thanks for your advice all, it seems like a pretty clear consensus that I'll be learning to weld and putting a new floor in!