Up Into Fourth
Posted 21 August 2016 - 07:21 PM
I was positive I had my alternator wired up correctly. Appears I didn't. The battery was draining over night so I went to investigate, found the alternator was warm. So problem found.
I looked at the wiring again. At least wire colour wise I am sure it was correct, but testing with a multimeter I am not sure.
Should there be permanent live from the brown/ yellow wire?
Mine does not.
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 21 August 2016 - 07:45 PM
Up Into Fourth
Posted 21 August 2016 - 07:53 PM
This is how I had it. The voltage I only found out today.
With the ignition on both wires have are 12v
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 21 August 2016 - 07:56 PM
Up Into Fourth
Posted 21 August 2016 - 07:58 PM
And the alternator is a?
I was expecting 3 wires. Needs to open the newer Haynes.
Sorry Nick.
I didn't think anything else was relevant to the problem.
The alternator is a small nippon denso. The battery Live feed is on a stud.
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 21 August 2016 - 08:05 PM
Up Into Fourth
Posted 21 August 2016 - 08:11 PM
Which one exactly?
As I need to see what it does.
Also you wire colours as these from the SC harness or the cars original?
These are SC colors. I assumed they were the same as the original. Hence why I have assumed the brown/yellow was the lamp.
The alternator has this connector.
The voltage posted above was measured from the wiring, when disconnected from the alternator.
Up Into Fourth
Posted 22 August 2016 - 07:35 AM
So now as I understand the standard mini alternator uses a permanent live on the ignition terminal and a switched live on the lamp.
Can some confirm if this is correct?
Crazy About Mini's
Posted 22 August 2016 - 10:12 AM
Only just googled this
http://www.autoshop1...ms/alt_bwoh.pdf
• Four wires connect the alternator to the rest of the charging system.
• B is the alternator output wire that supplies current to the battery.
• IG is the ignition input that turns on the alternator/regulator assembly.
• S is used by the regulator to monitor charging voltage at the battery.
• L is the wire the regulator uses to ground the charge warning lamp.
Appart from the 3 pin connections is there a stud connection for the battery ??
Up Into Fourth
Posted 22 August 2016 - 11:12 AM
Only just googled this
http://www.autoshop1...ms/alt_bwoh.pdf
• Four wires connect the alternator to the rest of the charging system.
• B is the alternator output wire that supplies current to the battery.
• IG is the ignition input that turns on the alternator/regulator assembly.
• S is used by the regulator to monitor charging voltage at the battery.
• L is the wire the regulator uses to ground the charge warning lamp.
Appart from the 3 pin connections is there a stud connection for the battery ??
Yip there is a stud (B) that one I figured out. it is connected.
The issue seems to be that the nippon alternator requires a switched IG but the mini alternator needed a permanent feed to the IG.
Moved Into The Garage
Up Into Fourth
Posted 22 August 2016 - 11:41 AM
I have read that and others numerous times.
Thing is most are not using a based mini loom.
I think the issues is because the mini alternator uses a permanent live on the IG, but the nippon alternator needs a switched live on IG. Since I have a mini loom, the wire is naturally permanent live.
I guess I just need to run a switched live to the alternator and forget about the permanent live wire on the mini loom.
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 22 August 2016 - 11:49 AM
so where is your purple wire going?
I can not see it anywhere on the harness diagrams I can fined.
Up Into Fourth
Posted 22 August 2016 - 01:10 PM
The purple which is permanent live, I thought of either leaving unconnected. Or read into adding it into the unused terminal on the alternator which is as i understand "battery sense".
I also can't find the purple wire on any diagram.
Up Into Fourth
Posted 22 August 2016 - 03:17 PM
Found this post from KernowCooper.
Seems to explain to me what i need.
1. switched live to the IG pin
2. use the existing permeant 12v as a reference voltage
Does your Toyota Alternator have these connections
The Bat would be your large brown to the Solenoid
S is Signal the SENSE line is a positive input to the alternator, and is meant to be feedback giving reference information on the load of electronics on your car. So its supposed to be hooked up the most electrically distant part of your car to let the alternator know if it should be upping the current to compensate. If its hooked up close to the BAT wire, which will be virtually the same voltage, then the alternator doesnt think it has to work that hard, and just does enough to keep the voltage steady at 13.8V.In your case you could run a wire from the battery + s a signal or try it on the main brown as a test
L is your cars Ignition Warning lamp wire
IG is a 12v ignition feed source which you could take from a switched 12v supply
This is the most popular Toyota Wiring for Alternators
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