23 replies to this topic

[NunoTT]

Hi guys!

 

Like the title says, What engine and engine parts should I buy? And where?

 

When I ask what engine should I buy, I'm asking what cc should I get. I have absolutely no idea what cc I sould get, the power I'm after (BHP), if I should get a stage 2,3 or 4 engine, or if it's better to get carbs (I REALLY like the Weber carbs on the 7 port heads!) or fuel injection.

 

The only thing I now is that I want an A+ (they are more robust the an A series right?) and a 7 port head (I've done some reading and from what I understand, the 7 port is better for daily driving than an 8 port, and lighter right?)

 

As for camshaft, pistons, conrods, crank, etc, I was going to let the company that would build the engine decide, but I would like to hear what you guys have to say.

 

As for the gearbox... Straight cut or the normal one (they are called helical right)? What's the advantage of a straight cut? Are they only good for racing? And sould I keep de 4 speed or get a 5 speed? I would like the gearbox to be a rod change type.

 

And one of the most important questions is where should I buy all of this? I'm form Portugal, but going to England to make an engine/ trans swap would not be a problem. I was thinking of buying this from MiniSport or MiniSpares. I would email them after I know every single bit I need and see which one has the better price, but if any of you knows a good engine and or trans builder let me know!

 

Anyway, I know that this is a bit vague, but if you could give me some help I would be gratefull!

 

Cheers!

 

 

[nicklouse]

First question.

What will it be used for?

[NunoTT]

I completely forgot to say! 
Mostly daily driving and some track days. 

[Wim Fournier]

"   is better for daily driving  "

So, you want your car for daily driving? Yes? Why are you asking questions about what you could get best for circuit racing?

When you build an engine with the specifications that come forward in your message, than can hardly use it on the road aspecially not on urban roads.

The way British Leyland have built the Mini originally is the very best way for using it in daily traffic.

When you only want to make the 'blitz' at the traffic lights, some of the mentioned specifications would do.

When you want the car for illegal streetracing with the boys from the block, maybe you could use some of the mentioned specifications.

When you want such a car for the organised circuitracing in a club, just buy one of the cars that is sold by some one who is leaving the sport behand, maybe because he became a father and had to marry and buy a house for his family. Such a car is a good starter for one who is entering the sport and wants to excercise circuit racing to find out what suits him best for getting better results next year.

Buying such a car is costing far less money in comparison to buying all sorts of 'tuning' parts without knowing what they are good for and how they work together. This way you will end in spending all your money without getting any result that you could be proud off.

[Fast Ivan]

how long do you want it to last between rebuilds?

[Dusky]

With road cams on a 7 Port you Have an Excellent engine wich is far from a racing engine. People should think before they write.
Couple it with a 5 Speed helical box and it d be one of the best daily minis ( non Turbo atleast).
But,for that price...you could easily do a modern engine conversion .

Edited by Dusky, 03 September 2016 - 04:38 PM.

[NunoTT]

"   is better for daily driving  "

So, you want your car for daily driving? Yes? Why are you asking questions about what you could get best for circuit racing?

When you build an engine with the specifications that come forward in your message, than can hardly use it on the road aspecially not on urban roads.

The way British Leyland have built the Mini originally is the very best way for using it in daily traffic.

When you only want to make the 'blitz' at the traffic lights, some of the mentioned specifications would do.

When you want the car for illegal streetracing with the boys from the block, maybe you could use some of the mentioned specifications.

When you want such a car for the organised circuitracing in a club, just buy one of the cars that is sold by some one who is leaving the sport behand, maybe because he became a father and had to marry and buy a house for his family. Such a car is a good starter for one who is entering the sport and wants to excercise circuit racing to find out what suits him best for getting better results next year.

Buying such a car is costing far less money in comparison to buying all sorts of 'tuning' parts without knowing what they are good for and how they work together. This way you will end in spending all your money without getting any result that you could be proud off.

Wim Fournier, like I said, I want it for daily driving.

 

I know that these parts are some of the best for circuit racing, but I just want that setup, because it's my dream. Ever since I saw a 7 port head on a Mini I fell in love with it, and that's why I want it. But why just get a 7 port on a "stock" 1275 when I can get something better, stronger, faster and that will give me chills every time I step on the skinny pedal? 

 

how long do you want it to last between rebuilds?

 

How long does an engine like this last between rebuilds?

 

With road cams on a 7 Port you Have an Excellent engine wich is far from a racing engine. People should think before they write.
Couple it with a 5 Speed helical box and it d be one of the best daily minis ( non Turbo atleast).
But,for that price...you could easily do a modern engine conversion .

Thanks for the comment! That really cheard me up!

I know I could do a modern engine swap, but here in Portugal it would be almost impossible to legalize! And I really like the looks of the A and A+ series engine.
But a V-TEC swap is in my "to do list"

[Dusky]

Ooh Yeah. I know the law is very strict there! In belgium its strict too :/
Your engine should last as long as any other engine. Especialy when properly Built. You wont Have 160 bhp, but you ll Have loads of torque and drivability when using the right camshaft(s) .

[nicklouse]

Second question.

Who is building the engine?

[NunoTT]

Second question.
Who is building the engine?

Right now I have three option. MiniSport, MiniSpares and a company here in Portugal called Gotti Performance.
I really like the Gotti and MiniSport job, but it will really depend on the estimated price they give me

[Spider]

Given it appears you are after some performance, I'd suggest kicking off with a 1275 engine and go from there.

 

As far as being 'robust' goes, A and A+ are much for muchness, but IMO the late A were the pick, just before they went to A+.

 

Given it'll be a daily driver, I'd suggest not going overboard in souping it up, the novelty of it will wear off before long and it's life will be shorter. I'd suggest aiming for around the 80 HP mark for a sensible all rounder, with Helical Cut Gears, it'll be easy enough to drive while still being loads of fun.

[nicklouse]

Second question.
Who is building the engine?

Right now I have three option. MiniSport, MiniSpares and a company here in Portugal called Gotti Performance.
I really like the Gotti and MiniSport job, but it will really depend on the estimated price they give me

Out of the names you have mentioned there is only one I would use.

Get in contact with Gotti and discuss your requirements with them.

[Mrpeanut]

How about a nice drive to Spain, ferry to Portsmouth, visit to AC Dodd in Salisbury with one of his engines and either his or a Slark's cylinder head being fitted, initial run in on Slark's rollers? Personally I'd go down that route rather than using one of the British 'big names'.

[gazza82]

Plus if you use a local company (a) they will be more likely to maintain it and (b) if something should go awry you would hope it would be easier to resolve ... Plus you can watch the progress...

[NunoTT]

Given it appears you are after some performance, I'd suggest kicking off with a 1275 engine and go from there.

 

As far as being 'robust' goes, A and A+ are much for muchness, but IMO the late A were the pick, just before they went to A+.

 

Given it'll be a daily driver, I'd suggest not going overboard in souping it up, the novelty of it will wear off before long and it's life will be shorter. I'd suggest aiming for around the 80 HP mark for a sensible all rounder, with Helical Cut Gears, it'll be easy enough to drive while still being loads of fun.

 

Let me see if I understand what you're saying. Instead of buying a 1293cc or a 1380cc engine (for example), I should get a 1275cc (used maybe?), add the head, and change the cam, crank, pistons, etc has I go down the road?

 

Also, how can I know if I'm getting a late A series or a earlier A series? By the year of it? The engine nº can give me that info right?

 

 

 

Second question.
Who is building the engine?

Right now I have three option. MiniSport, MiniSpares and a company here in Portugal called Gotti Performance.
I really like the Gotti and MiniSport job, but it will really depend on the estimated price they give me

Out of the names you have mentioned there is only one I would use.

Get in contact with Gotti and discuss your requirements with them.

 

 

I will do that!
 

 

How about a nice drive to Spain, ferry to Portsmouth, visit to AC Dodd in Salisbury with one of his engines and either his or a Slark's cylinder head being fitted, initial run in on Slark's rollers? Personally I'd go down that route rather than using one of the British 'big names'.

 

I'll look into that option! 

 

 

Plus if you use a local company (a) they will be more likely to maintain it and (b) if something should go awry you would hope it would be easier to resolve ... Plus you can watch the progress...

 

Being able to see the progress and they maintaining it is a BIG plus!!