9 replies to this topic

[Shaggy33]

I've bought some 12x6 Mambas which look awesome but I really am starting to have second thoughts as I don't want to cut my lovely mint condition wings!
I quite like the idea of going to 10x6 (will still work with the carbon arches I've ordered) has anyone fitted this size without the need for any bodywork mods and if so what offset?
Keep seeing some cool 10's with white writing, very retro cool!

[mab01uk]

The more offset you have the more likely the clash with the lower front corner of the front wing just behind the bumper with 6x10's when on full lock. Also the lower the ride height the more interference there is.

All the 6x10's I have used have needed this mod to the wings to some degree if using S discs.

I'm currently running these Japanese export spec. Minilite Mk 11 6x10 alloys with deeper dish ET-15 offset and fitted with Dunlop R7 Road/Race 165/70x10 tyres which needed cutting away to just behind the bumper flange area.

 

[Shaggy33]

Thanks mab, very helpful. It'll be a huge cost for me to go to 10's (new wheels and brakes!) and if I have to still the wing I may well stick with my 12x6 and accept the grinder has to come out!
Do most people (who are not restoring) just cut them and then and apply appropriate rust protection as the arch covers up any work? I don't really want to,go to the lengths of repainting etc...

[Shaggy33]

I also read somewhere on here that it's essential when cutting wing that you reform the lip to retain as much structural straight as possible

[Shaggy33]

Straight should be strength....

[Ben_O]

I also read somewhere on here that it's essential when cutting wing that you reform the lip to retain as much structural straight as possible

.It is a good idea to reinstate the lip as it's the lip that keeps the wing rigid 

[Shaggy33]

What's the best way to treat the modification other than a full reshape, weld and re-spray?

[Ben_O]

If you are going to cover the mod with arches and don't want to go mad with paint, then i would at least prime and top coat the area with aerosol paint. You haven't got to take the paint past the edges of the arch extension so it would be nicely hidden behind.

Some stone chip on the back of the wing could be worthwhile and wax would be good on top of the paint under the arches for extra protection

[mab01uk]

Remember to leave enough extra metal around the edge to bend out a new flange/lip when cutting back what is mainly the front panel section behind the corner of the bumper.......you may get away without cutting into the actual wing depending on rim offset, ride height and clearances on full steering lock. The paint will be damaged but as said can be locally painted for rust protection without a perfect finish as it will be covered by the arch. It is not unusual for the wheel to arch clearances to be slightly different on each side in later Mini's due to worn factory tooling, etc!

 

If fitting Wood & Pickett arches like mine the flange is also needed for the hidden fixing screws or rivets and the final arch curve shape must be within the maximum 'flex' range of the fibreglass arch to avoid distortion......

Edited by mab01uk, 11 September 2016 - 02:04 PM.

[fastcarl]

Mab, your first post is misleading, there are two types of offset, positive and negative,  to be a pedant, the more offset you have the less likely  the wheel will clash with the front  wing/outer bodywork ,  only when     the offset has a - sign in front of it do we know its negative, no - sign means its positive and the wheel is biased inwards to wards the car centre line

so to summarise, neg offset causes problems with  potential  touching   outer body work and to much  positive offset can see the wheel/tyre toughing suspension parts

 

carl