11 replies to this topic

[Scousemouse]

Hi All, Just a quickie....is it possible just to disconnect battery/fuel sender and filler cap + strap and just MOVE the fuel tank aside to renew my n/side rear shocker (am doing o/side also)

Cheers guys + girls  .......91 Mayfair 998.

 

 

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[Danyul1275]

It is possible Scouse,

Just take care not to damage the fuel hose coming off the bottom of the tank when you are moving it

[Scousemouse]

Cheers Dan, think I'll give it a go.It was the prospect of draining the tank that was stopping me (as I'm working in the gutter outside my house) probably best to remove the boot lid aswell then?? + remove the battery

Edited by Scousemouse, 04 October 2016 - 09:51 AM.

[Danyul1275]

I'd remove the battery just incase, removing the boot lid would probably help the old back bone too

[Rob Gavin]

I've moved the tank out the way plenty of times without the need to remove the bootlid.  Removing the battery is a good call but check the condition of the hoses before you start.  I've had old hoses simply split as soon as the tank was moved, leaving a large puddle of fuel everywhere.  I'd also recommend you have as little fuel in it as possible to make it easier to move about. 

[Scousemouse]

OK guys,thank all for imput. Will put it off for a couple of good runs then to get the fuel down.  

[MikeRotherham]

When I renewed my rear dampers I used this to drain the tank:

 

https://www.amazon.c...ain petrol tank

 

I put a thick blanket in the wheel well and on the boot floor to the left to stand the tank on when I'd moved it across.

Edited by MikeRotherham, 04 October 2016 - 12:24 PM.

[Scousemouse]

Cheers for that Mike,just copied that in to E/BAY and bought one for £7.00,Have to start getting a couple of gallon cans or a load of plastic milk bottles together.  

[Cooperman]

I cut an access hole about 3" x 5" in the rear panel and fit a cover plate to enable the damper to be changed or the LH radius arm dropped right down without disturbing the tank.

 

[Scousemouse]

Nice idea...  .and a very neat job.I did the same on my Chevy pickup couple of years back,so I could swap out the knackered fuel pump/sender.That was a couple of weeks after I dropped the tank because it had a hair-line crack in a seam,again the hardest part was draining the tank (I'd only just filled the bugger)

 

With that access hole in the truck bed it was a p.o.p to renew the pump/sender as it sat in the tank top.

[Scousemouse]

SO...I drained most of the juice out the tank.

Unclipped the fuel sender leads and isolated the battery.

Undone the tank strap and carefully moved the tank to middle of boot and sat on thick blanket.

Loosened the w/nuts and jacked up the car,placed on jack stands.

Removed rear wheels,put small vice grips on top of n/side shocker with ratchet spanner on nut.

Placed jack under n/side hub to support.

Removed bottom nut and washer off shocker pin.

Offered up the shocker AND LOW AND BEHOLD THE NEW SHOCKERS HAVE RUBBER BUSHES WITH A STEEL BUSH INSIDE??? the inner dia is the same size as the outta dia of the pin that holds bottom eye of the shockers,so will not fit??

The old ones I removed DON'T??? just rubber bushes??

Any ideas....Can I get the steel insert bushes removed...or are these the NEW NORM...do all shockers now come with rubber + a steel insert??.

Needless to say I had to put it all back together again..as it's my daily runaround.As Haynes would say "refitting is the reverse sequence to removal".

                         

I got a NEW SET OF REAR GAZ adjustables  From Huddersfield Spares,and I also have a new set of SACHS,both of these pairs have the rubber + steel bushes in the eye end.

(1991 Mayfair 998)......the old shockers on the car do NOT have the steel insert(TUBE) in the rubber bushes.

Edited by Scousemouse, 08 October 2016 - 03:55 PM.

[gazza82]

Not stuck to the bolts are they? Pretty much all shock bushes I've seen all have steel sleeve through rubber parts (not just Mini ones).