7 replies to this topic

[pusb]

I have a small spot of surface rust on my boot.

 

I want to have a go at removing it and painting the bare metal and then blending it back in.

 

All the guides on here seem to lack a little detail for complete amateurs such as myself!

 

So my plan of attack will be this. Please point out if I am doing anything wrong:

 

1) Tape off surrounding area

2) Attack rust with wire brush on the end of a drill

3) Sand down remaining rust with 240 grit sandpaper

4) Once all rust is removed, apply Krust to prevent it rusting again.

5) Apply primer filler and allow to dry.

6) Sand down primer with 600 grit sandpaper, and reapply primer.

7) Sand down again with 600 grit.

8) Apply first coat of paint, allow to dry and sand down with 800 grit sandpaper.

9) Reapply and sand paint 3 more times.

10) Apply lacquer and sand with 1200 grit paper, reapply.

11) Use a cutting paste to blend the patch in to surrounding area

 

Does that all sound good?

 

[dyshipfakta]

Pretty much apart from you missed the bit of welding up the hole where the rust patch started lol.

[miniseven61]

If the rusted bit is at the lower edge of the boot lid you are probably wasting your time, it would be better to replace it with a rust free boot lid.

It the rust spot is further up the boot lid it maybe just a stone chip gone bad. Wire brush the rusted area with drill,  apply rust killer to rust, fill any pitted rust with body filler, rub down to correct level with 120 aluminium oxide paper, feather back paint edges with 240, apply 4 coats of primer filler, flat down with 240 dry, re-coat primer , flat with 800 w&d. If the paint finish is basecoat and laquer flat back the rest of the boot or as far as you need to with flatting paste. apply sufficient coats of paint colour to cover the repaired area, leave to dry until colour is flashed off then laquer. don't flat colour or laquer in between coats, when completely dry polish up with g3.

If you laquer the original paint over a w&d prepared area you will get sheering, that's why you need to use flatting paste. don't wax polish until you are fully satisfied with the result, once wax you won't be able to re-coat for some while until all the wax is gone. Don't leave the colour coats over night to dry, the paint will dry too much and the laquer won't adhere to it and will flake off eventually. If you tape off the area for priming you may get an edge around the repair after the paint is applied.  

[pusb]

If the rusted bit is at the lower edge of the boot lid you are probably wasting your time, it would be better to replace it with a rust free boot lid.

It the rust spot is further up the boot lid it maybe just a stone chip gone bad. Wire brush the rusted area with drill,  apply rust killer to rust, fill any pitted rust with body filler, rub down to correct level with 120 aluminium oxide paper, feather back paint edges with 240, apply 4 coats of primer filler, flat down with 240 dry, re-coat primer , flat with 800 w&d. If the paint finish is basecoat and laquer flat back the rest of the boot or as far as you need to with flatting paste. apply sufficient coats of paint colour to cover the repaired area, leave to dry until colour is flashed off then laquer. don't flat colour or laquer in between coats, when completely dry polish up with g3.

If you laquer the original paint over a w&d prepared area you will get sheering, that's why you need to use flatting paste. don't wax polish until you are fully satisfied with the result, once wax you won't be able to re-coat for some while until all the wax is gone. Don't leave the colour coats over night to dry, the paint will dry too much and the laquer won't adhere to it and will flake off eventually. If you tape off the area for priming you may get an edge around the repair after the paint is applied.  

 

Very detailed advice, just what I was after so thank you!

 

The rust isn't at the bottom, its behind the number plate. It hasn't rotted though.

[sonikk4]

Don't use Krust, buy some Bilt Hamber Deox and follow the instructions to the letter. A far better product overall.

[miniseven61]

Too many years in the motor body repair trade!

[Marco1972]

Don't use Krust, buy some Bilt Hamber Deox and follow the instructions to the letter. A far better product overall.

Sonic beat me to it

Krust is useless deox all the way

Mark

[tiger99]

However Kurust really was better than most of its competitors in the 1960s and 1970s. Most did not work at all. But research has brought us far better products now, which as stated above are the sensible choice.