8 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

Hi;

 

Just finished bleeding my brakes after a fiver year restoration. Renewed all of the pipes and hoses on the Subframe and new flexi hoses on the front.

I adjusted all of the brakes on the drums before I started and used a Vizibleed kit and had assistance  

The brakes work and don't feel spongy but I have to push the pedal nearly to the floor. Is this normal or have I done something wrong?

 

Advice would be appreciated.

 

 

[JonnyAlpha]

Found this thread on MiniMania - second response gives some advice on adjusting the brakes and how that will fix pedal travle, I'll give it a go?

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 15 October 2016 - 06:07 PM.

[JonnyAlpha]

So I checked the rear brake adjusters and they were wound way out!!! I thought I had done them but obviously not.

Anyway I wound them back in but the brake pedal still nearly hits the floor before the brakes operate.

 

Do I need to bleed them again now that the adjusters are adjusted properly? 

[Spider]

After an initial adjustment of the drums, and this is more so on the fronts, but also applicable to the rears, and the first driven application of the brakes, the shoes will 'settle' or move a little to find their own home, and this will mean they all need further adjusting, then usually, they are right.

 

Given that you had a low peddle on the rears then no peddle after adjusting, I suspect you may have adjusted them the wrong way. To bring the peddle up, you need to wind the rear adjusters IN.

 

The fronts are a different kettle of fish though, The adjusters here are not a screw at all, but a 'cam' and so moving those the smallest amount has a big effect. Also, note that there are 2 adjusters on each front wheel, so 4 in total on the front.

[JonnyAlpha]

Thanks Moke, I didn't realise there were two adjusters on each front wheel (I only adjusted one on each). I wasn't clear but I did adjust the tears the right way it just has no effect on the pedal. It was nearly to the floor before and after.

[Spider]

 I didn't realise there were two adjusters on each front wheel (I only adjusted one on each). I wasn't clear but I did adjust the tears the right way it just has no effect on the pedal. It was nearly to the floor before and after.

 

Ah, well, I wasn't sure if you were aware there were two adjusters, one of them is easy to find and fairly obvious and - hey - there's an adjuster, so why would anyone look for the second one - unless you knew!

 

I think when I was a wee-tacker, it caught me out and that's probably why I make a point of mentioning it these days. Likewise on the rears, it did sound like you were right on those, but I preferred to mention them rather than assume.

 

This is the only diagram I have for the front adjusters, it's not the best, but shows roughly where they are and the correct direction to turn them to adjust them up - which is the same direction as the wheel spins in a forward motion. They will tighten up the other way, but will have a tendency to undo themselves.

 

[JonnyAlpha]

Thanks Moke, after doing all the adjustments do I still need to bleed them all again?
to be honest I may get a Gunson Easy Bleed because trying to look at a bottle and press the brakes at the same time is impossibl, let alone nipping up the bleed nipple on a downward press if the brake pedal.

[Spider]

If you feel the brakes need further bleeding then yeah, the Gunsons isn't a bad unit. You shouldn't need to bleed them though because they've been adjusted, only if there's air in the system, which usually shows up as a spongy peddle.

[tiger99]

The very earliest Minis were single leading shoe at the front, like the rear, and only did have one adjuster. If you have one of these cars you should convert it in the interests of safety as the single leading shoe gave very poor braking. But it makes economic sense to go all the way to disks.

But please ignore that if it is a valuable car in original condition. Mods would lower it's value. Just drive more sedately! (As if, in a Mini!)