5 replies to this topic

[ozz1]

The central oil pickup bolt is missing on my gearbox, deliberately omitted during the last build.

I'm guessing the harmonics at high revs could cause a stress fracture in the braze, so want a bolt there - nylock will melt so.... eliptical locking nut, or drill and put a splitpin through a normal nut/bolt?

Thanks Oscar

[ozz1]

Picture

[tiger99]

If a Nylok would melt just use an all-steel locknut such as the Philidas type used on early Cooper drive shafts.

[Spider]

Sorry, can't see your picture.

 

If it's the bolt that I'm thinking of, the steady on the Oil Pick Up, I use a longer bolt, put in from underneith, nut it then stake the thread, ie, intentionally damage it with a centre punch or the like. It can be undone with tools at a latter time and you might have to replace the nut & bolt, but up can't end up somewhere it's not supposed to.

[Cooperman]

It is surprising how many younger people have never heard of 'staking' a nut and bolt as a means of locking it.

We used that method on aircraft a lot in the 60's and I still use it today. Typically on the front tie-bar nut/bolt attachment to the lower suspension arm which I usually fit with the bolt upwards to make changing it easy. I use a Nyloc then stake it for good measure. As 'Moke....' says, such a lock can be undone, but a new bolt & nut will be needed every time.

[Spider]

One other method I did until recently was to fit a lock nut.

 

That's fine with Cooper S and A+ Con Rods, but, as I found out, does not work with normal A type 1275 Con Rods,,,,,,,,

 

 

 

It is surprising how many younger people have never heard of 'staking' a nut and bolt as a means of locking it.

We used that method on aircraft a lot in the 60's and I still use it today. Typically on the front tie-bar nut/bolt attachment to the lower suspension arm which I usually fit with the bolt upwards to make changing it easy. I use a Nyloc then stake it for good measure.

 

Good idea on the Tie Bar Bolt, I like it.