4 replies to this topic

[blakie]

Finally got round to having a play with the mini i got at mitp and ive come across a few issues that you all may be able to help me with........................

1. It has 10" cosmic alloy wheels on but the nuts dont look to be to safe, i say this because the bolt part on the drum does not come all the way through the nut (i hope this makes sence). I just wondered if this is safe of am i better off getting some nuts that are acually for the alloys and if anyone knows where i can get them from?

2. I took the alloys of and put some steels on so that i can take them to work tomorrow and have new tyres fitted. So i jacked the car up using the mini jack and got the wheel off, when it came to putting wheels back on the drum seemed to have droped too much and the jack could not go any higher so i had to go and get a trolly jack in aid to get the extra height. Why is this? Is it my shocks knackered? I want to have the mini lowered so would fitting spax ajustable sort this out?

and finally........

3. As a few of you may have read in a previous post i have a fuel leak, i need to replace the whole metal pipe that runs from the rubber pipe (leading to the fuel tank) all the way to the engine (i guss). Just wondered if many of you had done this and how easy it was. Do i need to put it onto a ramp? Also where can i get the right pipe from (does it have a name?)

Sorry to go on, i just hope it all makes sence.

Thanks in advance
Chris

[Big_Adam]

yo,

on the alloys botls thingy. it depends on how deep the nuts are. My El Gordo has just steel rims but she has these massice 1-2inch long nuts (0.o) so it all depends a pic would help see how much thread is used. but if your just not comftable with it then get some longer wheel studs.

http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=33325

think thats right, might want to check with someone smarter tho.

[stef]

as for the jacking issue, mine does this as well. i always assumed it was because the shocks stretch out to their full length slowly, so when you go to put your wheel back on, its lower.

then again, my shocks are probably knackered. get some good ones, will make the ride a lot nicer. if your lowering it, you'll need to get a hi lo kit. don't really know about spax dampers, but the kayaba ones that minispares sell are supposed to be very good for the price.

stef

[Dan]

You must use Cosmic type wheel nuts with Cosmic wheels I think. Some MOT testers will fail you if the thread doesn't travel all the way through the nut and project 1 1/2 threads beyond it regardless of how deep the threaded section of the nut is.

Were the wheels drooping at the front or the rear? The rears can keep on dropping for ages as the shock is all that holds them up and some shocks are sticky at the end of travel but the fronts should stop once they have squished the rebound buffer. Do you have rebound buffers fitted (small squares of rubber under the rear end of the top arm pivot in the subframe) ?

It's fairly easy to change the fuel line, it's called fuel line.

[Retro_10s]

you want the 1/4 inch diameter fuel line, it's made of copper and bends easily.

I manged to replace the fuel line in my mini quite easily, the hardest part is getting it through the front sub frame and to pop out in the engine bay in the right place, you have to bend it round the steering rack in your front subframe shuold have little indent for the fuel line to sit in. Iv'e secured mine to the subframe with a cable tie just to eliminate any wobble, but most of it is held on by bloody large bits of metal every 10 inches or so under the floor panels. they just bend to close and push the pipe against the floor to hold it there. I cut a cars length plus half again, and this covered all the twists and bends.

Edited by Retro_10s, 11 September 2006 - 11:19 AM.