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New Mini Shell Rust Proofing


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#1 Steve220

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 08:15 AM

Hi all,

I'm throwing this one out to the floor for discussion. If you were to re-shell your car, what would you do to the new heritage shell to make sure longevity over the years? Ie, what would you do that Rover SHOULD have done and beyond (we can't change the steel). We're talking everything from primers, zinc in some areas, cavity, sill protection, etc.

Edited by Steve220, 17 November 2016 - 08:15 AM.


#2 tiger99

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 08:50 AM

Zinc arc spray. But how do you get it inside the sills?

#3 mab01uk

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 09:33 AM

Waxoyl iinjected in all cavities.and fit plastic inner front wheel arch liners.



#4 Ben_O

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 11:41 AM

I would be more concerned about the lack of any sort of paint in the seams....

 

But yeah, decent quality paint, stonechip, sealers and wax is about as much as you can realistically do

 

Ben



#5 panky

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 11:45 AM

Re-rout engine breathers into the sills. Nice smokey engine will keep them rust free for years ;D



#6 Fast Ivan

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 12:02 PM

e coating



#7 MacGyver

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 12:59 PM

e coating

What he said.
Do the mods and holes first tho... 😀

#8 Carlos W

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 01:19 PM

Paint behind the front top shock mounts

#9 Itsaminithing

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 01:34 PM

....& under the windscreen scuttle.

 

For brush application a friend (with several award winning BMC cars) recommended Fortress Metal paint (available from B&Q).

I can't get the finish he does! (touch of OCD i think), & it takes at LEAST a week to harden properly! ....but it's relatively cheap & seems much harder & long lasting than most products available now.



#10 sonikk4

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 06:43 PM

Get it stripped, then dipped. (E coat)

After that epoxy prime followed by every seam sealed using Pro Seal 870B1/2.

After that everything down from the door step to sill flange, inner arches front and rear either Stone Chipped or Upol Raptor, primer and topcoat.

Many many coats of paint on the upper bodywork. I would Use some sort of injection system for paint to force into the A pillars, B pillars, floor and bulkhead crossmember and any other cavity you cannot get a spray gun into. Once all cured then every cavity waxoyled.

#11 mini-geek

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 07:17 PM

Can't believe that they have stopped e-coating them..

Never dropped the price though did they!

#12 Steve220

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Posted 18 November 2016 - 09:29 AM

Can't believe that they have stopped e-coating them..
Never dropped the price though did they!


Of course not, and the management know it's a license to print money.




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